Car Stalling Problems

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit

Possibly the fuel actuator. Its about $150 from cummins. The only way to be sure is with an electronic scan tool & monitor the actual vs. commanded fuel pressure.

The proper spark plug gap for a 1994 Mitsubishi Mirage is .030 thousandths of an inch. The Mirage has a 1.5L engine.

I am having the same problem in a 79 camper. It was running great until one morning it would idle. The tank was run almost bone dry so that is probably the culprit, also there has been tremendous humidity being in Northern VA in Aug. I bought some fuel line cleaner that is supposed to absorb water and keep the lines and injectors clean. I have yet to see if it works, but suggest this a $2 first step.

Carefully inspect under the hood of the 92 Town Car. Look at all of the electrical connections to make sure that they are sealed from the weather.

check the speed sensor

On the 3.3 Liter V6 it is .060.

If a car "bottoms out" it means that it has been in a situation where the underside of the car hits the road. If this condition continues, there will be severe damage to the vehicle suspension and if definitely a SEVERE safety hazard. Things that can cause a vehicle to "bottom out" are , poor driving habits (not slowing down for road hazards like speed bumps, holes in roads, etc) or bad suspension parets like struts, shocks, upper or lower control arms, bad sway bar bushing and end links.

If it only happened once, then it can probably be caused by road conditions but5 it is a symptom of something wrong. Get the car checked. For your own safety.

it is a gunlike device wich fires light and it is used to align properly a timing chain in an engine.

I've had this happen to my Tracker, as well as a friend's. In both cases it turned out to be either the Crank Angle Sensor, or the wiring going to it. Let me ask you, when it randomly dies does the RPM gauge jump all around or temporarily go to zero? If so, it's certainly a CAS issue. Mine spent 6 months in a garage with a mechanic working on it nonstop. They basically have no idea what they're doing, and anything they can't immediately explain gets chalked up as "Bad ECU." Don't listen to them. I had to replace 3/4 of the parts on that vehicle before the mechanic gave it back to me, still not working. All it took was shorting the diagnostic pin block (4 pin connector, right by the battery) and getting the code out of the computer. The computer gave a Code 42, which is CAS, so I checked that circuit. It's been running fine ever since.

I have had it happening to mine too. Eventually it would not restart. First fix replaced some corroded wires at the gas tank end of the system. Now after another recurrence, the shop is getting no signal from the computer. Bummer, cuz that is spendy to replace. I guess hairline cracks develop in the circuit board with age. It must flex just a little, maybe with temp changes, so circuits open and close until it fails.

An from "91tracker":I found a problem on it that made a huge difference. I found a broken ground that made my tracker run VERY rough so i spliced a new eye back on it and it doesnt drop to 500rpms and die on me anymore, and now when my temp. go to operating temp. and i shut it off it will start for me unlike when it had the broken ground.so you can check for broken grounds like mine or try tuning the timing.

I had a similar problem with my 1992 Buick Park Avenue - it would cut out while driving - After replacing alot of sensors, maf, and coils etc - which did nothing - i found the problem was with the crankshaft position sensor - this is about $22 at autozone - not too hard to replace. Now no problems with cutting out at all.

It could also be the timing belt. If the timing belt fails the engine will stop running and the car will not restart until it is replaced.

TommyTrouble

cat converter is getting plugged

it, sounds like the crank sensor needs to be replaced or throttle body sensor needs to be cleaned.

The air cleaner may be plug. Sometimes a dirty air filter will allow enough air for the vehicle to idle but not enough air for it move.

fuel injector

these cars are pretty good for bad crank sensors. car runs fine until hot then dies. restarts 15-20 mins later

See History of seat belts

I have always just blown into the gas taken, kind of like you are blowing up a balloon. It probably doesn't hurt to hollar "Hey, get dry in there, will ya?"!!!! I have always just blown into the gas taken, kind of like you are blowing up a balloon. It probably doesn't hurt to hollar "Hey, get dry in there, will ya?"!!!!

The car vill vibrate because the A/C system uses a compressor that runs off the engine's pulley system. The compressor is quite hard to turn and as such will actually use a few extra horsepower to run it, this results in a drop of the rpm from idle. Depending on your car, most petrol engines idle at approximately 800 - 900 rpm. When the A/C is activated, the compressor's cluth will engage and put extra load on the engine, thereby lowering the rpm. When an engine's rpm drops below about 700 - 800 rpm, the car will vibrate because of the balance of the pistons and crankshaft in the bottom end of the engine thus creating a vibrating effect. Engine's are balance using counterweights on the crankshaft and are set at a good balance with engine rpm being about 800. I hope this has helped you. rest assured, there is nothing wrong with your car and you will never resolve it as long as you have the A/C turned on.

Check the fuel filter and fuel pump in the Grand Prix. Check the fuel filter relay as well. One of these is most likely failing.

As I have a similair problem with 2000 GMC Jimmy when it gets about 1/3 left in the tank. It is suspected the baffells might be bad along with the fuel pump. Good Luck

Could be many reasons but fuel pump failure is possible.

I am having exactly the same problem with my 1991 Corsica this weekend. I have read elsewhere that the crank position sensor can do this so my mechanic has started to take it out when it broke in two. He needs to remove the oil pan to push it out from inside now. The other possibility is the EGR valve however I wont know that until after the crank sensor replacement. PS not I'm not a pro but I will let you know in a few days. Answer the crank angle sensor on 3.1 and 2.8Liter V6's is prone to damage from stones and mud flinging up from tires in 4x4's and wears out and fails quite easily apparently. My COrsica had the very same problem last week and this repair did the trick and the car runs like new. When replacing crank sensor, it helps to apply heat to the sensor, not a little heat but do not melt it. The "O" ring sets up and makes it nearly impossible to pull out without breaking......leading to more problems than you bargain for. Once loose gently twist back and forth and pull at the same time gently. This helps alot. Ours had the same problem, turned out to be the ignition coil pack, located under the exhaust manifold, gets hot, opens up, cools down runs fine!

EDIT: Catalytic Converter as most of the problems listed here are.