Car Stalling Problems

My bet it is the spark plug wires or spark plugs or rotor cap if it has one. If the wires are going bad, they are worse "under load" (while driving).

because your an idiot

Need to know the year and what it is in.

A failing or bad coil can cause an engine to stall. After cooling for a while, it is often possible to restart the engine.

A fuel delivery problem could also cause stalling. For instance, if the car usually only stalls when the engine is under a heavy load, the problem would probably just be a clogged fuel filter.

There are several porbably reasons: 1.Bad fuel filter 2.Bad spark plugs 3.Dirty fuel injector 4.Bad fuel pump 5.(the worst and unfortunately very common) Bad coil

all of these things are good but this is what we did on our 2000 Catera Same Problem the engine would stop after about 20 minutes of driving, we replaced the Crank Shaft sensor and it runs fine now, the reason is the wire coming from the sensor runs along the exhaust pipes when the wire heats up it loses its connectivity and will shut the engine off until the wire cools down about 15 to 20 minutes later then starts back up and runs fine until the wire gets to hot again. If this doesn't fix the problem then the next thing to replace is the Cam Sensor. We didn't need to replace it though, Jim

No Spark when primary circuit is functional. jb

CPS STANDS FOR CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

I had the exact same problem with my 2000 Jeep GC laredo, for several months. I could never predict when it would happen. Then more frequent problems with "won't start, though engine turns over", then wait a few minutes and it starts. I just resolved it two weeks ago by changing the CPS (Crankcase Position Sensor). I got the tip last month by looking at other sites on the internet. There were several tips to "try replacing the CPS first". I asked my auto mechanic son-in-law about this, and he said he hadn't thought about the CPS, but it made sense as a possibility. This is a fairly cheap fix (about $30 for the sensor) -- it is a small plug-in wire with a sensor at the engine. My son-in-law bought the part at an auto parts store, and replaced it for me with a ratchet wrench with a long extension -- it is held in place with one screw. I have discovered that a failing Crankcase Sensor will cause exactly what you are experiencing. It could be several other things, but I'd suggest trying the CPS first. Hope this helps. Ron in PA

maybe your idle to low, if it continues, I have the fluid injection relay switch replaced.

I do not do anything. You need to have a tune up done on your car.

One of the only reasons i can think your vehicle would stall after you had a timing belt replaced is if the mechanic took off the battery terminal. If that is the case then your car just needs to relearn itself you should be able to run the vehicle until the cooling fan turns on the shut the vehicle off for 30 seconds then drive it a while then stop it and it should hopfully stop stalling. If not you can bring it to a mechanic and they can look at it. I hope it helps and i could be way off Although the obvious answer would be that the new belt went on wrong........................

set the parking brake on put the trans into drive and while applying the brake set the rpm to its higher point the release

You might own a Daimler-Chrysler product. Consider cleaning (the inside of) the throttle body.

If it has a distributor it doesnt have a crank position sensor. The magnetic pickup in the distributor is what you would be looking for. The module is either on the side of the distributor or on the firewall against the drivers inner fender.

car starts but shut off while driving

What kind of engine and transmission? Could be a faulty Idle Air Control if injected or a need for idle speed adjustment for a carburated engine. If the transmission has a locking torque converter, it may be stuck in locked mode instead of waiting for the proper high gear and speed conditions.

If its manual you obviously don't know how to drive it. I have a 1985 Cabriolet and I don't have any problems with it and its been sitting on a driveway for 5 years.

"Stalling while driving" could have a number of reasons. I'm afraid this question is too vague to genuinely answer; more details are needed, but the most likely cause lies with a fuel delivery issue.

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Manual cars can be tricky if someone doesn't know how to drive a stick shift one way to see if its you or the car is have a friend that drives a stick test drive your car with you in it.

It might be a clog in the fuel system somewhere or a backed up catalytic converter. It would help to know exactly when and how its stalling out IE at red lights going up hill,downhill around curves. I say this because when a car stalls at different points its symptomatic.

i have a 1992 volkswagen GTI and it was doing the same thing stalling while driving and we found the it was the fuel pump relay good luck

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My 87 Jetta had an intermittent stall problem, even while doing highway speeds it would just die. Sometimes it would restart... sometimes it would restart after several minutes off. I removed the fuse/relay box cover and by tapping on the tops of the relays it would occasionally recover.

It turned out to be the fuel pump relay. It has a control circuit built in, the part that causes it to shut down the fuel pump if the engine isn't running, used to prevent gasoline being pumped after an accident that may have damaged the fuel lines causing gas to pump on the ground.

I had to resolder a few of the connections in the relay and so far it's been fine. The problem was a couple of broken solder connections to the PC board, and it is fixable if you have some experience soldering. Otherwise, get another relay and you're good. There is also a known issue with those cars having grounding problems in the fuse block, thankfully that wasn't the problem.

Since that relay can be non-destructively disassembled, I'm going to check it on every one I deal with in the future, since it seems to be a recurring problem on the gas engine variety of those cars.

I had this problem a few years ago with my 93 Cabriolet and it turned out my steering column was lose. It was a quick inexpensive fix and has been fine since.

I had the same problem in my 98' rodeo and the tube running to the EGR valve was clogged, taking the EGR valve off and spraying carb cleaner down the tube unclogged it and it fixed the problem

Possible causes in order of likelyhood: water entering distributor or individual plug wires (through cracks) Have you changed your oil? Has there been any sign of water in it? (Water usually appears as a whitish sludge or drops). If so: Water getting into engine through: airbox air inlet manifold inlets between head and block (if improperly machined or installed) I had this same problem. Check the coil for cracks, there could be a crack near the spark plug connector and its making a spark jump outside the coil into the cable. Of course water will make it easier for the spark to jump out. I had to buy a new coil for about $50. Good luck! it could also be your distributor cap/ignition wires/rotor. if there is a bad seal on any of them, it will leak water, and shut the motor down. its happened to me a few times.

water has leaked into the sparkplug holes or into the alternator use startdryer a spraycan you buy at any gasstation or a garage

Your mass airflow sensor could be bad or your exaust gas recirculation valve.

depending on the vehicle model it can relate to the pcm or tcm

You step on the peddle for abit. (you vrooom it)

Your 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4 L - V8 engine has a COIL ON PLUG ignition system The engine cylinders / spark plugs / coils are numbered : FIREWALL 4 - 8 3 - 7 2 - 6 1 - 5 FRONT

Check the fuel filter. If it is the original, change it. If that doesn't help, find a mechanic.