Car Stalling Problems

There may be two fuel pumps on the Polo, one is in the fuel tank the other is behind the passenger side rear wheel under the car.

In most cases a block heater replaces one of t he freeze plugs in the engine

An electronic ignition tells the spark plugs when to fire to ignite the fuel. In older cars this was done mechanically by means of a distributor and rotor button.

A typical car engine will be oil-starved and it will be destroyed by friction. The oil pump will not be able to pump oil to the engine unless the engine is designed with a dry sump like you'd find in racing cars and aerobatic airplanes.

I have four of these vehicles. The one with the 5 speed is the one that was doing this. It would sometimes stall at stop lights, restart and it was normal. I had a guy clean all the carbon out of the intake system which cost about $105.00 and it does not stall anymore. Be aware that he had the equipment needed to do this. I have heard that running a product named "Seafoam" through the intake can clean out carbon buildup. This is done two ways. The easiest way is to add the Seafoam directly to the fuel tank. Check the bottle for the proper amount to add. The second way is slightly more difficult, but probably more effective. First, start the vehicle. Then disconnect the vacuum hose that runs into the brake booster. SLOWLY add the product by introducing it into this line. The vacuum pulls it into the intake system. Do not choke the engine with it, add it SLOWLY. After adding the amount you are supposed to (again, check the bottle), shut the motor off and let it sit a while (1 hour?) During this time, the Seafoam will basically steam clean the intake. When you restart it, it will smoke like a freight train out of the exhaust, this is the carbon being blown out. DO NOT DRIVE IT, let it sit and run. Seafoam is catalytic converter safe, so don't worry. After this is done, the carbon problem should be much better, and power may be better. I've done this before, and it seems to work well. Check with a mechanic for clarification as to the vacuum line location. Good Luck.

There are quite a few things that can cause this. If check engine light is on you should get and engine diagnostics. Bad spark plugs and wires can cause the engine to idle low and cause stall tune up should fix that. Oxygen sensors in bank 1 and 2 of engine can cause fuel to run rich and possible vacuum leaks which means air is escaping through vacuum line. Hope this helps and by the way I'm a Lady speaking from experience.. GOOD LUCK

Sounds like your gas gauge is wacky .. or the sensor in the gas tank. Can't figure out the 10 minute wait - what do you do when in the middle of a busy intersection? Just sit there for 10 minutes? Get this car fixed - yours and everyone elses lives around you are in danger when it acts up like this.

Travelling to slow in a high gear, so clutch in and lower the gear.

Hi, the idle control valve is located at the back of the engine on the left side of the carb, you will have to remove the air intale ducting to get at it. It is approx 7" long with a connector plug on the end facing frontwards. The ducting is secured to the carb by a jubilee clip, you only have to remove the first 2 sections to get at the AIV. The valve is normally held in place by 2 Allen screws, use carb cleaner on the valve after you have stripped it down. (it is worth knowing that a new valve from vauxhall is £100 + whilst there are always plenty of brand new ones on eBay for £25 - £30). While you are in there it is worth removing a large rubber pipe which goes from the intake ducting to the rocker cover & a smaller rubber pipe which sits beside it, these often are very clogged.

Note. I am currently having problems with my vectra stalling a idle when i get to junctions etc, i have replaced the IAV & cleaned the pipes but still have not solved the problem, i take you have a similar problem so if i find a solution will report back.

I found a site that lists the trouble codes and offers a description as to its meaning.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

check oil level in your hydraulic clutch if you have a hydraulic clutch. If not and it is a cable clutch check and make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. It may not be disengaging when you pull the clutch lever.

I have a 96 tercel and it stopped run while I was driving it, the problem was bad battery cables and the motor would not trun and the lights on the dish board would dim when the key was truned, lastly the cables connected to the battery had alot of white "stuff" all over them. Cables changed end of story car starts fine now.

it is the anti theft. lock all the doors the unlock the door with the key. try with passenger door too. if this does not work it is some other problem with your anti theft system.

the tdc is a slight notch on the crank pulley you should have two other notches toward pass. side of car on the backside of the pulley all along the circumference of it . the first notch should be 5deg the second 7.5 deg you may have to clean the grime off the pulley two find them once found use a white or yellow crayon or paint to mark them for easier location when timing.

Isuzu engines commonly exhibit erratic idle problems

The engine revving and dropping in rpms, sometimes dropping almost to the point of dying. There are several things that can cause this problem:Leaks in the vacuum hoses or aged, cracked hoses can let in air that is not being metered by the ECU's sensors.Leaking or sticking EGR Bypass valve may be allowing exhaust gasses into the intake when the engine is not under load (idling). Loose electrical connections in the engine sensors can cause problems.On G200, 4ZC1, and 4ZD1 Engines: The Idle Control Valve / Idle Solenoid may not be functioning properly.On 4XC1, 4XE1, and 4XF1 Engines: These engines are notorious for idle speed revving and dropping. Thus far, no single simple answer has been successful in all situations has been offered.Before you do anything at all, check the ignition timing and reset it to factory specifications (9-11 degrees). Incorrectly adjusted ignition timing (too far advanced timing), will cause havoc within the ECU and the engine will not idle correctly.After this, the first step would be to carefully remove the IAC control valve and clean it with carburetor cleaner, xylene, or some other solvent and a tooth brush.Also clean the passages in the throttle body, and then reinstall the IAC valve, making sure to reinstall the O ring also. This may resolve the problem in some very mild cases.Check the throttle cable adjustment. If the throttle cable is adjusted too tight, the throttle position sensor will not read that the throttle is closed at idle, and this will cause the computer to fight to lower the idle speed. Make sure there is some slack in the line and that the throttle arm easily and consistently rests against the throttle adjustment screw whenever there is no pressure on the pedal. If it does not, then examine, repair, or replace the throttle cable and gas pedal if anything is found in either of these assemblies to show the cable or pedal is sticking.

If this does not help, things get much more complicated. These engines are set up with a learning mode and the computer controls all functions, including idle speed, based on the signals from the sensors. If one sensor begins to malfunction but does not go totally dead, the computer will continually try to adjust, causing all sorts of symptoms, and even running the trouble codes will not help, because it will show nothing unless the sensor is dead.The best and easiest solution is to have a service department use a scan tool to determine the problem. Anything else would be a futile effort to guess and get lucky on what the problem is and pray that you don't waste hundreds of dollars replacing sensors that are not defective.The throttle position sensor on these vehicles can not be adjusted. This does not mean that the sensor can not be twisted on its mounting bolts so that the baseline voltage reading is different, it means that the baseline voltage reading is meaningless, and the computer takes whatever the lowest voltage reading sensed to be 0%, no matter what that voltage may be. Using the scan tool and observing the physical position of the throttle linkage at the throttle body, observe that the percentage reading does not always return to 0 though the linkage has physically returned to its fully closed position. This appears to be a voltage variance in the sensor signal from the ECU. The voltage sent to the sensor from the ECU increases above idle speed above the 5 volts specified, and though the linkage and sensor return to the fully closed position, the increased voltage in the sensor signal causes an increas3 in the voltage returned by the sensor, so the ECU does not believe the throttle plate is fully closed, and tries to continually adjust the ignition timing and fuel injectors to for a condition it can't determine is idle or above idle.

If you insist upon this hunt-and pray method, your possibilities are: coolant temperature sensor, mass air pressure sensor, intake air temperature sensor (thermistor), oxygen sensor (exhaust), etc. You should disconnect the battery for several minutes after making any changes to clear the learning portion of the computer memory, this way, if you are lucky enough to guess which sensor is bad and replace it, the computer will not continue to try to compensate for the bad sensor that it sensed before.If you decide to take the vehicle to a service department to have it scanned, make sure that they have and can operate a Delco Tech I tool and have the software to service your vehicle. Know that these Delco computers (ECU or CPU as they may call it) are flash programmed. They do not have a static programmed prom chip, and rather are "flash programmed" by loading with the software from the Tech I while the computer is installed in the car. They do have learning modes, do have a memory, and are programmable. You will find that many dealer service departments have little or no experience working on anything other than trucks and sport utility vehicles. They may have no experience in dealing with the Delco based computer controls on these vehicles, and may even make claims that these computers are not programmable, etc. Make sure that you quiz the people who you intend to have service your vehicle. If they are not familiar with the Delco based computers, claim anything other than that they are fully programmable and flash programmed using a Tech I, or indicate that they lack the hardware and software to service your vehicle, do yourself a favor and take your vehicle somewhere else to someone who has at least the slightest idea of what they are doing.Also note, that there have been numerous recalls on the Delco ECUs used in the Isuzu and Storm models which are listed at the website. Specifically, all 1991 Isuzu cars have a standing recall # 9101001 under General Recalls for a ECM replacement campaign, and all 1990-91 Geo Storms have a standing recall # 91C066E under Emissions Recalls for ECM replacement because of emissions non-compliance. It appears that the computers should be recalled, and that a recall was issued by Isuzu, but that this recall is no longer being honored by the company. If this is the case with your vehicle, changing all the sensors will have no effect, and only by replacing the ECU will you ever solve the problem.

Lastly, to improve drivability without fixing the problem so that you can use the car despite its idle problem, if you find that the vehicle is revving and dropping and trying to die, you may wish to try one of the following temporary cures:If you live in a climate with little temperature variation and it is always 70 degrees Fahrenheit or above, you may wish to start the engine, allow it to warm up, wait for the engine to idle at a normal speed, and then simply un plug the IAC solenoid. This disables the IAC solenoid and the computer will not be able to continually try to correct for whatever problem it has that is serious enough to warrant correction, but not serious enough to bring up a trouble code when the codes are run. Disconnecting the IAC solenoid will, however, make it almost impossible to use the air conditioning, as the IAC solenoid usually adjusts the idle speed up to compensate for the increased drag of the compressor. Disabling the IAC solenoid eliminates this, and the engine will die if you turn on the air conditioning. This will also happen if the temperature drops enough, and engine warm up will become difficult. Adjusting the throttle plate stop on the throttle body is the second possible action, which works much better if you are in a climate where the temperature is not steady and cooler whether is normal. Note that the throttle stop is set at the factory, there are no instructions to return the throttle stop to its original position, and if you have the vehicle serviced by a dealership service department, their instructions are to replace your throttle body ($400.00 or more) if the adjustment screw has been tampered with. That said, you can adjust the idle screw in several threads to artificially raise the minimum idle speed. The computer will still try to compensate, but will not be allowed to let the engine speed drop low enough to kill the engine. The side effect will be that once the engine gets hot, the idle speed will hover between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM often when you pull to a stop at a stop light or stop sign. Sometimes it will work its way down after several minutes, and sometimes it will simply hover at that point. It is annoying, but much less so than having to continually restart the engine every time you come to a stop. This temporary solution should not be used in the long term. It is not good for the engine to run above idle for long periods with no load. In addition, it is not good for the life of the clutch to start from a standing stop at 2,000-3,000 RPM all the time.

This year had a central fuel injection with the idle speed on the side of the throttle body in the form of a D.C. motor with mechanical adjustments.

It depends on a lot of factors. Some cars have a distributor cap that is sensitive to moisture. If yours has a distributor cap, pop it off and check the inside for spark "traces" or cracks or any kind of imperfection. If you see any kind of trace or crack, replace the distributor cap. If you don't have a distributor cap and/or don't have a problem with your distributor cap, check the air intake. You need to have some kind of carburator/throttle body de-icer. There is usually a tube that draws air across the exhaust manifold to keep ice from building up when the gasoline flashes to vapor at the injector or carburator. There is usually a sensor and vacuum line at the air intake that controls a valve to draw air across the exhaust manifold when the temperature drops. If that part isn't working you'll have problems in rainy weather. You will literally have an ice ball form if that circuit isn't working.

In your car is a little device called the Main Relay that causes BIG problems. The Main Relay is generally bolted to the left side of your car in the passenger compartment, right about at the height of your left knee. It has three functions: 1. When you turn the key to "on" it powers up the fuel pump for three seconds, then turns it off. It also powers up the PGM-FI control unit. 2. When you turn the key to "start" it turns the fuel pump back on during the cranking process. 3. When you release the key (turning it back to "on," in effect) it leaves the fuel pump on because you need gas flowing to the engine to keep it running. What's happening to you is that, when you release the key, it's turning the fuel pump back off. The Main Relay handles a lot of current, it gets hot and there's no cooling air going to it, so the solder joints crack. Find this thing--google "picture of Honda main relay" to see what you're looking for--remove it, resolder all the joints and put it back in. It's free and it usually works. your ignition switch, you can crank the car and hold it in a particular position and it stays running but when u release that halfway position to its regular position it cuts off. You need to get another ignition switch

This depends on whether the vehicle is gas or diesel fuel. A gasoline powered vehicle can have this fault if the fuel pump is failing. This causes the engine to "cut out" at high RPMs, when more fuel is required. It can also fail if the ignition coil is failing. When the coil is failing it tends to overheat during prolonged driving and cause the engine to stall. Diesel vehicles can either be caused by a failing fuel pump, water in the fuel filter that needs to be drained or a break in the wire powering the injector pump solenoid. If you happen to own a Nissan Serena with a SD20 engine, watch this spot. Mine has just started to exhibit those symptoms and I will be sure to update this answer as soon as the dealer has finished checking mine.

"Idle system control malfunction", which means, there is a problem with the volume of air going into your engine, via the IAC valve., If your car, when you start it, isn't accelerated up to aprox.,1000 rpm, and then decelerates in a minute or two, it´s likely the IAC valve is done for., Or if the car stays in high rpm, or dies out, then, most definetly its the IAC valve.

I have run into this before on other makes of cars and it was the altenator. If you can get the car to a parts house like auto zone they can sometimes test them for you for free.

It's basically a raffle store where there is a box with all the tickets in and someone spins it around a couple of times. The person with the ticket that has been pulled from the box wins a prize!

If you just put a gallon then do nothing as it will not harm the engine. Just fill the fuel tank and you will be fine.