Car Starting Problems

Sometime the fuel pressure leaks down went he engine is turned off for a couple hours or more. If that happens the engine may be difficult to start later. Try turning on the ignition switch for a couple seconds allowing the fuel pump to build a little pressure, THEN crank the engine. See if it makes any difference.

Either the gear on the end of the distributor shaft is chewed off or the gear that drives it is . Possibly broken cam.

Then that probably means that it's something more technical wrong with it.

The 02 Chevy S10 with a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder does not have a timing belt.

1. Make sure your battery posts and connectors are clean. Free of acid & oxidation.

If that doesn't work then.....-

2. Check for a draw on the battery ( something staying on like a trunk light). A good test is to buy a test light. Then disconnect your negative on the battery and put the test light in series. If the light comes on go to the fuse box and start pulling fuses until the light goes out. Then you know where the problem is.

Johnny

Does the new pump run? if yes then is there spark at the plugs? also did you replace the fuel filter?

fuel pump in tank along with sending unit bad

It could start but if it is indeed corrosion you probably want to clean it off. Somtimes people will lightly apply a form of anti-corrosion grease to battery terminals to prevent corrosion. Your typical signs of battery corrosion look like greenish or white stuff that will crumble away easily when disturbed. You probably don't want to touch it though a bottle of water and some old rags (where some protective gloves and/or wash hands thouroghly afterwards) that you can throw away, should clean it up. The battery terminal affected should be removed and cleaned to a shine with a wire brush for best results. Be careful working around battery terminals as not to short the battery it could be very dangerous. But yes battery corrosion will definitly cause a car to not start. I don't recall seeing it look like grease, that is unusual. Hope this info helps.

most likely a fuel delivery problem. i use carb cleaner to spray a little down the throttle body (where the carb used to ve) and see if it starts. if so then you probably need a fuel pump.

if you mean that your brake lights stays on, the problem most likely will be a bad/shorted brake light switch and as a result your battery lost power therefore your car is not going to start.

o under your dash board on your brake pedal you'll see a wired/switch conected to it.you need to press the brake and disconect that wire/sending unit until you get a new switch otherwise it will keep eating your battery.remember once you disconect that, your brake lights wont work.(don't get a ticket)

I had the same problem, but mine continued to run. Found out that the top of my fuel pump had a crack not visible to the human eye, but when you turn the car on, it would leak a stream of fuel, could not locate the problem for years until the fuel odor was stronger. Glued the top of fuel pump but only lasted about one year. Fuel pump is good, it works. But ordering a new pump. The plastic housing was defective.

Check your battery connections. If the terminals are good then check the starter.

what is the year make model of the car and what size is the motor???? Nissan primera 16v gx 94 model

Try using logic!

1. Take out the spark plugs/injectors. Try and crank the engine over. Does it turn over? If it doesn't then try again with the lights on. Do the lights dim to nothing when cracking? If yes, then your battery is dead - Replace.
2. If the lights don't dim then your starter is not getting juice. Does your starter solenoid click? If not then the fault is in your ignition circuit from the battery to the solenoid, Check the ignition fuse and wiring.
3. If the solenoid is clicking. Then the fault is in the main power from the battery to the starter motor. Add a light bulb to the power connection on the starter motor, check to see if power is getting to the starter motor, if yes then the fault is in your starter motor, It could be jammed or misaligned. If not then the fault is in the solenoid or power cable to the starter.
4. If this is all correct then try the same logic to the fuel system. Start from the tank and work forward to the cylinder. Is fuel getting to the pump? Is fuel getting to the filter? Is fuel getting to the Carb/Injectors. Check for air locks all along the system.
5. If all else fails, check your timing and other issues using the same logic.

also your little display that shows messages and what not, that will say Clean Key - wait 3 min if the your passkey wasn't reading right Perhaps you see a Security Light flashing. Turn ignition on and leave on until security light stops flashing (up to 10 minutes) Do this a second time and again wait up to 10 minutes for security light to cease flashing finally a third time - after the 3rd time that the security light stops flashing ... Turn off iginition and try to start. Jon

No, that will have no effect on the battery.

I would look at the fuel system next. It takes two thing to make a car run, fuel and spark.

Not getting any fuel.

It could possibly be a faulty cam sensor. It should be located on the front of the engine by the pully that drives the serpentine belt. Can't remember the name right now.

Car may have trouble starting after running out of gas, You may need to put more than 1 or 2 gallons in before it will start. You may also want to bleed the gas line (there is a valve in the engine bay) to get any air out of the line that may have been sucked in.

The tumbler, or lock and tumbler is the cylinder shaped object that your key fits into. This is a mechanical device, that when turned, creates an electrical contact sending power to the starter, fuel pump, and ignition system. The tumbler has moving parts that eventually wear out and can make it difficult for you to turn the key. If you are not familiar with this you may want to purchase a manuel which shows the removal and installation. General instructions are all I can give for this partcular vehicle. first, open up the steering column(probably two screws on the under side of steering column). Next, find the cylinder shaped tumbler. It should be incased in a tubelike housing. There is a spring loaded button of sorts that you must press in (a screwdriver or punch works well). As you press this button in you then slide the tumbler out toward the passenger side. To replace, simly push the new tumbler into the casing, making sure that you line the spring loaded button up with the opening on the bottom of the tumbler housing. It should pop into place. Then reassemble the plastic cover around the steering column. If your key turns easy then the tumbler isn't your problem. In this case, It is probably your ignition switch. Smetimes the contact points wear out and fail to pass the current onto your starter. Many modern ignition switches are connected to the back side of the tumbler housing(closest to the drivers side). If you are getting power to the signal wire on your starter(the small wire connected to the starter) when you crank on the key, then your starter is probaly the culprit. Also check that you have a good, tight, clean ground. This runs from the negative post on your battery and bolts to the frame or some other significant piece of metal. Check both ends for a good connection and make sure the cable is undamaged. Check the cable that runs from the positive post on the battery to the relay box in the engine compartment. For this you will have to remove the the plastic cover on the relay box. Again check both sides of the cable for a good connection. Check that cable is not corroded or slightly broken. Have fun! Chris

there is a travel limiter on the pedal. turn it the right way.

This is a great question: This problem seems to occur across the board from Beetles, Hondas to Fords and BMWs. Seems to be characterictic of 1980s and later. Does anyone know if there is heat sensor involved which might shut off the fuel injection to the plugs? Maybe a computer problem?

I had the same problem with an 01 Impala. Unfortunaltely the fix isn't cheap. For mine, it was the ignition switch combined with the BCM (Body Control Module). About a grand at the mechanic will fix it. However having said that, I made the repair, and the problem has started again only 6 months later. A quick diagnostic at the mechanic will specify what the problem is.