Car Starting Problems

This was a common problem on mid to late 80s' GM cars...The torque converter lock up clutch does not disengage and when you put the gearselector into drive the Torque converter clutch stops the motor.

The test for this problem is to put the drive wheels up in the air-put the car in gear and see if the motor kills. If not then the Torque converter clutch is stuck.. The simplest repair is to unplug the Torque converter plug on the outside of the transmission then the Torque converter clutch will usually disengage.

If you could tell me what make/model/year and motor that you have i can be more specific.

Hope that helps..

Good luck.

Check the transmission fluid level. If it is ok, then the filter may be clogged. If not, then it will need to be taken to a transmission shop.

clean out or replace the throttle body spacer...

It could be a number of different things; if the radio and other electrical things work with the key to acc. then it is most likely not electrical. It would be best to take it to a mechanic and have them scan it to see what is wrong. Hope this helps.

Mine was the starter on 1996 I30. I downloaded the schematic diagrams for the electrical system. I took out fuse #17 (10 Amp) which basically shut down the anti-theft (start) and it still didn't start. After checking that fuse #33 (7.5 Amp) was good, I replaced the starter and it's working fine. The only other thing it could be is the inhibitor switch (Park or Neutral switch) so try both positions and if it doesn't start in either Park or Neutral, it's probably the starter unless you have a stick instead of an automatic. In stick shifts, there is another switch linked to the clutch...that can stop it from starting.

It been my experience that a loud noise when stating a car, grinding may mean the starter is not in right or on it's way out as in replacement.

It's quite likely that one of the mounting bolts that attach the starter to the engine has broken and the remaining bolt(s) are bent, as a result. The bolts should all be replaced ASAP. This is not an expensive repair.

It is likely to be the starter is not working.

The coil in the Cirrus is a very small unit inside the distributor, When it gets warm, it short circuits its own windings. This occurs in the secondary or high tension section of the coil with little or no output to the plugs. Also it does not set a fault code because OBD-1 & 2 opnly reads the primary section of the coil. Aftermarket coils are available which connect to the original terminal on the distributor. An adapter is required to connect the new high tension lead.

When you hit the starter button the starter relay send power to the starter. the starter solenoid pushes the starter shaft outward and the starter turns. When the solenoid moves the shaft it is connected to the jackshaft which ingages the starter gear on the clutch

If your car has a carburetor, this is normal. If it's fuel injected, then it could be the Idle Speed Controller going out, bad sensor or clogged injector. There are injector cleaners that you can pour into your gas tank to clean that out. If you used one and it's still doing that, then it could be a bad sensor causing another piece to not perform correctly. Only way to be sure is to have a mechanic check out the sensors and/or the idle speed controller.

If the starter is still rotating the crankshaft upon turning the key in the ignition, AND there is a charge from the ignition coil to the distributor, the problem is most likely that 1. The distributor is improperly timed and/or calibrated for the engine in which it is placed, 2. The distributor is the incorrect type for the engine it is attached to, or 3. the mechanical linkages that spin the rotor are defective or incorrectly installed.

No, you must have a charged battery for the alternator to work.

Here's an explanation of how the charging system works:

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/alternator-generator/testing-an-alternator-without-blowing-it-sky-high

The starter is located just under the intake manifold. If you are standing on the side of the car with the battery you should be able to see it. It's not very difficult to replace. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid shock. There is one wire, that pulls apart, and two nuts on the starter that must be removed, the solenoid electrical connector and the starter terminal connection cable. Then there are two mounting bolts, one is on top of the unit and the other is on the bottom at a diagonal from the top bolt. Both bolts can be reached from above.

11.14.08 revision. The new fix to this issue on my jeep was to replace the computer (ECM) ($400 part) and the ignition coil ($73 part) too. The wires to the computer had poor connections and the coil not getting spark. While it was a little costly with labor (~$700 total) it certainly is better than car payments.REVISION TO MY PREVIOUS ANSWER: The CSS fix provided only a temporary fix ... the issue returned within a few weeks whenever there was rainy weather. Once the air had dried out the jeep starts again. But, until then, nothing. So, do not rely on the replacement of your CSS to fully correct the issue. This issue was just resolved today in my 95 Country. First, do a full tuneup - spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor - if that has not been done recently. This took care of the problem for a few weeks, but then the issue returned. Next, change the crankshaft sensor - that part cost about $125. The guy at Napa said that is a common part to go bad on Jeeps. It is not an easy part to take the two bolts off of - because it is located in a tight spot - and be careful to not let either bolt fall into the flywheel opening. But if you can get the two bolts off and then back on again with the new CSS, you should run well again.

You need a tune up. The spark plugs are running way to hot and need to be replaced.

There could be oil in the solenoid which is too thick in the morning but once it warms up later in the day the oil is thin enough to allow the solenoid to make contact and turn the starter. Is the solenoid clicking when you try to start it? It could also be a bad battery connection but it doesn't sound like it.

The starter location on all Dodge Dakota engines is on the driver's side rear of the engine, low down and bolted to the transmission bellhousing. It will be cylindrical in shape and the positive (red/+) battery cable will run directly to it.

It'll be at the front of the car on the left ot right side. Open the hood and look close to the front of the fender for a black box that is about the size of 2 CD cases put side by side. The battery will be under that cover and have a big black and red wire going to it. Most autoparts stores will show you where it is and load test it for free.

A couple of things to troubleshoot here first:

1. Do the car's lights work? Not the interior light, the headlights. If the headlights don't work or they go completely dim when you turn the key, your battery is dead.

The loud buzzing noise you hear from under the hood when you turn the key to start the vehicle usually means the battery is too low to crank the engine or a loose cable. Some auto parts stores will test the battery free of charge.

Nothing unless you connect the negative cable to the positive post. When you do that you will destroy the battery and it may possible explode. You may also damage the electronics in the vehicle.

Turn the ignition on then disconnect the battery.hi to all Renault clio 2001 immoboliser probs light wont go of try this........ open your key now take out the green board now place the key in the ignition don't turn now place that green board back on its place and turn ur key and see if the light goes off if it don't try this for a few times it goes off,, contact me at poizen2005@yahoo.com tell me it it works

check for spark first by holding a plug lead end 1/4 inch away from an earth crank engine , you should feel and see a blue spark. if ok ,remove plugs.itll dry itseft out in half an hour. refit plugs and try again..

To start a flooded engine put the accerlator on the floor do NT pump, and start kicking it over. if it gives you a realy hard time and to save your battery, give it a rest for 10 minutes then try again.

Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck. Another possibility is the ignition key switch is not automatically returning from the start to run position. As the switches get older they seem to get stiff. Could be a weak spring in the switch or just gummed up lubricant. The easy test is to try turning the key counter clockwise after starting the engine and see if the starter motor stops running.