Car Starting Problems

Ask a new question about a car problem and some one will try to answer it.

Hard to say, maybe nothing. If the battery is completely dead, say if lights were left on all night, you can try making SURE the jumper cables are making good contact, leaving cables hooked up and letting the car giving the jump run for a while (20-30 min), and having someone rev the motor of the car giving the jump when trying to start the dead car.

Also check to make sure the battery cables are hooked up good, nice and tight. If OXIDATION has built up on the inside of the car's battery cable ends or on the battery posts this can prevent the battery from grounding or power from flowing from the battery. You'd need to clean off the oxidation with a wire brush/sandpaper, or scrape it off with a pocket knife.

You could take the battery out, and take it to a garage and try to have it charged overnight. If it works after that but then goes dead again in a day or two its probably got a dead cell, no good any more.

You could take the battery to Advance Auto Parts or a Wal Mart with an auto department, they can check it for free to see if it has a dead cell.

If the battery is good, but still does not charge in the car, then you may have a bad voltage regulator or alternator.

Seized engine? Bad neutral safety switch? Bad starter or starter solenoid? Loose cable connection at battery or starter?

start by checking fuel delivery,if you do have fuel delivery proceed by checking the timing setting.

Often when a Chrysler Corp. vehicle has a dead battery or the battery is disconnected, the computer will loose it's configuration. When that happens it will display the "no bus" message.

You may need to take it to the dealer to have the computer re-configured unless you have a smart friend who can do it for you..

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t172710.html

I found out simple way to disable the passlock1 prmanently. I did it on my Cavalier 96 and it works so far.

You can use it if ocasionally you are still able to start your car. All you need to do is to start the car (with your semidefective passlock sensor), and then disconnect the three wires plug (wires that run from the lock cylinder to the instrument panel) from the instrument panel while engine is running.

Engine will start the next time without any passlock "authorization", but "theft system'" light will stay on. If you do not like it, you can remove LED from the instrument cluster board.

I am not shure if the disablement will work after battery gets disconnected. Possible, that you may repeat it all over.

Are you sure it just didnt overheat, perhaps you broke the camshaft drive belt? You say it turns over, as it always did or is it turning over faster? In checking under the hood did you accidently disconnect any wires?

Check for continuity coming from the switch from the "start" position. If it is good, then the starter is defective, or a loose wire somewhere around the engine.

coolant temp sensor

Turn your headlights on and try start the engine, if they don't dim then the problem is still in the starter motor. If you bought the motor 2nd hand, maybe try exchanging it or check it has been refitted properly. Ive currently got the same problem with my xsi, bu haven't had a chance to fit a new one because of the weather here.

When you replaced the starter did you also replace the starter solenoid? I had the same symptoms on my 306, starter wouldn't turn, battery was OK and headlights worked. Road service was able to start the car by bypassing the starter solenoid. I replaced the solenoid (and the starter because they're sold together) and fixed the problem.

What you describe is possible. Worn fuel pumps often make more noise as the internal workings start to rattle around. Check the fuel pressure using a fuel gauge. That will tell you what you need to know. Anything else is just a guess.

place wires on the pos. and neg. battery terminals as in any vehicle and connect them to a another running cars batteries or a battery charger/jumper (battery is located under the back seat) Since the battery on the Aurora in under the rear seat, it is better to open the hood and connect to the positive terminal on the passenger side of the car next to the fuse block. There is a red cover over this terminal. Connect the negative cable to a good ground on the engine block, out of the way of moving parts. Caution make sure not to connect to any of the A/C lines/parts as they are not grounded (these are tempting since they are readily accessible.)

Under the hood in the relay/fuse box.

Yeah. ILCO manufactures transponder keys. Your local locksmith would be happy to make the new keys for you. You may have to call a couple to find one with the new equipment.

Hi, It could be a few things wrong. Usalley a motor revving is caused by a vacuume leak at the carb base

sure it will. no fuel= no start

get a can of starter fluid, spray some into air cleaner

try to start engine

if engine starts on that , you know you are not getting proper fuel

if it starts on starter fluid it will only run a very short time until fluid runs out

Only if the fuel pump isn't working.

If it overheated and wont start that can be some bad news. An engine can only take so much heat and when it gets to hot it'll crack and leak out oil and without oil theirs no lubrication in and the engine will seize. Which basically means you need a new engine...

The biggest nistake a would-be mechanic can do is to start buying and replacing parts hoping to eventually solve whatever is wrong with the vehicle. It is much wiser to invest $11-$14 on a repair manual (Chilton or Haynes) for your vehicle and use the trouble-shooting guides to help find the cause(s) of the problem. If you can't afford to buy a manual, they are availble for checkout at most public libraries. At any rate, the click you describe more than likely indicates a bad starter solenoid/relay. But don't just run out and buy one - you can check it out using the manual as a guide. If nothing else, whichever component (battery, starter, etc,( you think may be at fault can be checked at your auto parts store (usually at no charge( before you invest in a replacement.

Please dont put the gas filter in backwards......you must keep to the rules.... why would you even attempt this??? Consult the advise of a certified tech when you are attempting vehicle repairs as to avoid injury to yourself and to others as well as getting proper training while getting your vehicle repaired.

Before beginning any work, make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. I've replaced a starter in my Nissan, it was a 5 speed not a auto.If it is a manual you have to remove your cluch pedal link that's connected to the transmission .From there you have two bolts to remove for the starter from the transmission.I believe it is a 14mm socket one side you'll need a extension. Make sure to unplug all the wires to the starter.I believe the auto is the samething.If this helps or you need more info just write to my e-mail. I still have my 1992 Nissan.

Simple thing to do-And I am no automechanic by any means. Remove battery cables to avoid shocking yourself....buy ramps from craigslist....ramp and remove anything in the way....which if you buy the 6 inch extension for your ratchet (which you will need to buy to get past something on the top bolt) you almost don't even have to move anything.....except the oil filter which I think if you wanted you might be able to jiggle it out even around that...since it is only about 3 pounds (compared to 15-20 pounds in a truck starter)...but the two bolts that hold a starter in are simple to remove once you find them.....It takes an hour just to ramp and find the starter. The easy way to find it is to follow the negative battery cable which is black with a yellow stripe or two.....and the bottom one is easy to reach but hard to find while laying under the car..... I suggest removing the starter and taking it to the store for testing first...and if it tests bad....then you don't have to shell out 32 dollars for the core charge....and you know the actual problem is the starter. So the oil will drip on you and you will be working under a car which can be a little scary....but the bolts came out easy on mine....and when you put it back in make sure you tighten them or you will be back under there the next day tightening them like I was.

As a side note: this problem hit us in one morning....no warning...so I thought it might be a bad problem since usually starters go slowly...but ours just died...probably just the selonoid which could have probably been repaired...but for 90 dollars I would rather just replace the whole thing.

Additional info: The starter is tucked up under the intake manifold. It is held on by two 14mm bolts. One is accessed best from under the car. The answer above suggests removing the oil filter. That is messy. I recommend removing the "A" shaped intake manifold brace. It is held in by three 12mm bolts. With that out of the way, access to the bolt is much easier. The other bolt is easily reached from on top of the engine. It is the same bolt that the battery ground is attached to. You also have to remove the main power cable from the end of the solenoid and there is a clip on electrical connection on the starter bracket. I found that a swivel adapter and a long extension made getting at the lower bolt much easier. One hour to get it out and less than an hour to get it back in.

I am having exactly the same problem with my 1991 Corsica this weekend. I have read elsewhere that the crank position sensor can do this so my mechanic has started to take it out when it broke in two. He needs to remove the oil pan to push it out from inside now. The other possibility is the EGR valve however I wont know that until after the crank sensor replacement. PS not I'm not a pro but I will let you know in a few days. Answer the crank angle sensor on 3.1 and 2.8Liter V6's is prone to damage from stones and mud flinging up from tires in 4x4's and wears out and fails quite easily apparently. My COrsica had the very same problem last week and this repair did the trick and the car runs like new. When replacing crank sensor, it helps to apply heat to the sensor, not a little heat but do not melt it. The "O" ring sets up and makes it nearly impossible to pull out without breaking......leading to more problems than you bargain for. Once loose gently twist back and forth and pull at the same time gently. This helps alot. Ours had the same problem, turned out to be the ignition coil pack, located under the exhaust manifold, gets hot, opens up, cools down runs fine!

EDIT: Catalytic Converter as most of the problems listed here are.

yes, depends on the fuse. IT DEPENDS WHAT THE FUSE IS FOR.

You usually can suspect that the starter is bad if you turn the ignition key and nothing happens. You hear a clicking sound but the engine does not turn over. The dash lights should come on.

No. If your Cat. is plugged up the car will start but then die. Any other problems it won't prevent it from running. It might not run well but...