Car Starting Problems

The Starter is accessible from beneath the vehicle

One of the cheapest things to try for this problem is to change the transmission oil and filter. If you take it to have it done make sure you tell them you want the filter changed, otherwise they will just suck out the old oil and put in new.

When the thermostat and radiator were replaced, coolant could have dripped into an electrical connector or a sensor could be disconnected or damaged. Check the temperature sensor and crankshaft sensors first.

Have you tried placing the car in park and or nuetral? possible neutral safety switch failure.

Mini Truck Supply has developed a technical resource website devoted to the owners of Japanese mini trucks. You may find the exploded view you're seeking on the new site by following the link below to be taken directly to the Suzuki Carry DD51T Diagrams.

This sort of thing is battery or starter related.

Most likely the car battery is not sufficiently charged (and requires a jump-start). Typical symptoms: lights are dim, and very dim while starting.

If the jump start doesn't help, or you've tested the battery to be good, another option is the battery cables. Typical symptoms: headlights are strong, battery tests well, but as soon as you turn the key to "start", everything goes out, including the lights. A starter draws on the order of one hundred amps of current, which is enough to heat up and char away a marginal battery connection; sometimes the marginal connection even reestablishes itself after a few minutes to cool down, making this a difficult problem to diagnose. Sometimes this can be fixed by scraping/sanding away corrosion on the battery terminals; sometimes you need completely new battery terminal connectors or battery cables.

If the battery and cables are sound, it could also be the starter or starter solenoid. These can both be bench tested, but once you've gone to the work of removing them, people often replace them anyway.

Finally, it is possible there is an electrical short in the system, a bad switch in the ignition system, a blown main fuse, etc.

Weak battery and no gas can both cause a no start.

Weak battery and no gas can both cause a no start.

Most likely lack of fuel, sounds dumb, but make sure there is gas in it, step 2: if sometimes it will start then die, this means the fuel filter is most likely plugged, debris will settle to the bottom of the filter then when fuel starts flowing it will re-pack and clog the passage way. could be a fuel pump, take the fuel line off of the filter under the hood and hold it over a large cup or bucket, turn the key on or even turn it over and see if it pumps out fuel, this will tell you if its working or not. depending what car it is, could be a distributor cap out of adjustment, dirty or malfunctioning which is not allowing it to fire.

You can find ignition coil for a 2001 Blazer on http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Ignition_Coil.html

dis connect battery for 2 min. then reconnect and try to start does it even try to start

The starter will quit engaging in the motor. Sometime if u bump the key it will work.

On your 1992 FORD TRUCK AEROSTAR 4WD, the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH is: UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, MOUNTED ON DRIVER SIDE OF TRANSMISSION info obtained from www.autozone.com

well first off honest alternator wouldn't really have anything to do if car doesnt start what i can advise would be check starter that's more than likely it... hmmm hang on whaen u replaced alt? did you put all the wires and clips on correctly because there is a wire that is hooked to starter that goes to alt check all wires and connections also make sure they are not broke make sure they are all tight good connections ok

Remove the carburetor bowl and make sure the float valve is letting gas in when the floats are lowered and stopping when raised ( you may have to clean the needle valve), then use a small flat screwdriver to remove the valve ( brass piece ) that is inside the part that is in the middle of the floats ( the bolt that holds the bowl in place screws into it, it should drop straight down)and clean all the holes in it with carb cleaner and a piece of wire as well as the hole it came out of and your problem should be solved.

Not building compression It should be hard to turn. It is not designed to rotate in opposite direction.

You say it will not turn over - so that's a starter problem and then you say it won't start meaning the starter works but it won't crank up. Why did you change anything without knowing where to start the repair. Excuse me for being stern but you are learning the hard way - which is good. Did you have a check engine light? Remove a spark plug wire and stick a screwdriver up in it and then hold the metal of the screwdriver a quarter inch close to some engine metal part while your buddy tries to crank the engine. Got a spark? If not - Work on the firing circuits. If you do have a spark - then go work on the fuel supply system.

Could be a lot of things. Any car requires 4 things to run fuel, air, a spark at the plugs and to be in time. Without more information, there is no way to point to something specific.

Check your fuses could be an electronic issue.

sounds to me like your choke is not setting properly you should hve it checked. your choke is not setting properly just replace your choke component or you can try disconnecting the battery and see if it resets itself just remember that when you do this it resets the mapping sensor and you will need to adjust this by taking the car for a half hour drive so that the mapping sensor has a chance to reset all aspects of your driving habits this 97 mercury will do that when you take it for the test and reset drive

Too much oil can cause the spark plugs to get fouled enough not be able to ignite the fuel and the engine will flood. Too much oil will not keep an engine from "turning over', but the overly fouled plugs can certainly prevent it from starting.

the symptoms you describe sound like a starter problem. replace it and your problems will be through!

They are usually located on the front (belt and pulley) side of the engine. In your case, that would be the passenger side of the vehicle. Look for a wire loom going behind the crankshaft pulley. The crankshaft pulley is the one that is the bottom-most pulley in the center. You may see the sensor itself behind the pulley, but generally you have to remove the serpentine belts, crankshaft pulley, and lower timing belt cover to gain access to the crank sensor. You get to all this by removing the front right wheel and working through the fender well. Keep in mind your crankshaft pulley is held on with a bolt that is RIDICULOUSLY tight so you will need a 1/2" impact wrench to remove it (and to install it again). In some cases you also need a gear puller tool to remove the pulley because it's so tight on the shaft. Good luck and make sure the problem is your crank sensor before going through all the trouble!