Car Starting Problems

Start by running a computer diagnostic. That can tell you a lot. If you get nothing from the diagnostic the problem is most likely related to fuel delivery. But the computer diagnostic is first.

Then check fuel pressure. There should be a fuel pressure test port. Make sure the pressure is up where it belongs.

If all of the above test out, run a compression test. Worn engines will often loose compression and that can result in loss of power. GM used a good engine in the 94's and if properly maintained they last a long time.

That should be enough information to get you some good ideas of what's going on.

Dead battery, loose or corroded battery connection, or defective ignition switch. Can also be a defective neutral safety switch.

Remove - battery cable Raise and support vehicle if needed Disconnect wiring at top of starter Remove starter mounting bolts Remove starter

If it's a V6 it could have a broken timing belt.

The "ears" of the ignition.

Knowing the firing order of a cars engine can help with diagnosing car issues. The firing order for a 1993 Toyota Camry is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

i found i had bad fuel .....maybe you should check fuel

I had the same problem. I had to replace the key cylinder, key faub, and computer. Its a pain. better off just leaving it

somewhere by the handle bars

Yes, you sure can.

six

The sensor reads if the engine is burning too rich or too lean by reading the ratio of oxygen and nitrogen oxide. It then tells the computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture for better performance and less pollution.

NO.

It's possible that when you first try to start up the computer, you're not depressing the button firmly enough. I had that problem with a laptop ... I'd push the button, then turn away doing something else and when I turned around again, it hasn't booted up. So I depressed the button again. This time with a bit more firmness. I now make sure I depress any buttons firmly, but not jabbing at it. Just my opinion.

I just changed the relay on my 99 sc2. It is a standard shift and i found the relay by following the wires from the cluch pedal safety switch. But basically on the 99 it is up under the dash on the drivers side taped to the wire harness. It was covered in black electrical tape.

This varies according to the make and model of the vehicle. On many cars and trucks, it is located in the engine compartment, usually on the fender or firewall, and commonly on the same side as the starter motor. Often you can locate it by following the large positive lead from the battery. It will commonly connect to one side of the starter relay.

Ether your key switch has a short or if you have ever tried to hotwire the car the hot wire may be touching metal if it is unplug it

is it carburated or throttle body injected?

try putting a little gas in the carburetor or throttle body or if you have no gas try starting fluid but if you have gas in a jug use that because starting fluid is hard on the pistons and valves.

and see if itll start

LOW VOLTAGE, BAD BATTERY, OR BATTERY CABLE BAD OR LOOSE / DIRTY CABLE CONNECTION, CLEAN ALL EVEN THE GROUND TO MOTOR CONNECTION, MOTOR NOT LOCKED UP RIGHT? YOU DID CHANGE SOLNOID WHEN YOU CHANGED THE STARTER...? LAST NEW STARTER IS BAD..

You may not have hurt anything. The starter will spin as long as the cable is sending power to it. The ignition switch needs to be turned on to make this work. Touch the jumper cable to the starter connection. The starter will spin and start the engine, assuming that there are no engine problems. This is a dangerous move, because if the car moves or it is in drive, then the car will drive over you.

What is inside a battery ? Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_wrong_if_the_battery_light_stays_on_and_the_battery_still_runs_down_on_a_1996_windstar_after_installing_a_new_battery_and_alternator

If yours is one of the many engines that use the distributor drive shaft to also run the oil pump, it might just be an oil pump problem. Has the oil pump been replaced? Is it an oversize/high pressure oil pump? Has the oil pressure relief valve been modified? Also, check the distributor for excessive end-play. If the shaft rides up or for any other reason causes excessive torque on the shaft, that too could be causing the shaft to fail. Those shafts are deliberately small so that THEY will break and not damage your camshaft gear. Either way, it's either a binding or sloppy distributor or something that is causing the oil pump to work too hard.

haha immobaliser might be on lol

It could be a couple of things that would make your car do that.... firstly, did you have this problem prior to installing all those ignition items? If you didn't have that problem, I would think it would be the coil. Did you also replace the spark plugs? It's also important to use factory MB parts for these specific applications. A lot of after market parts really don't measure up to factory specs. Yes, they're much cheaper, but a lot of times they won't work properly.

My best guess would have to be the fuel system. It could be:

Frequency Valve

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Oxygen Sensor

Thermo Time Switch

Warm Up Regulator

Those listed items are what it could be with the amount of information you provided.

Fuel pump? Pound on the fuel tank pretty firm with your fist 5 times or so and see if it starts