Car Starting Problems

about time to buy another ford

Might be a faulty fuel pump.

you might have bad coil, spark plugs,wires or a dead battery ar bad starter? try some different things.

First thing first, Check the basics, Check to see if you have good spark, fuel at the fuel rails when the key is on an air coming in the the motor, Make sure a rat nest or something isint blocking the air from getting into the engine, If its not getting fuel, check to hear your fuel pump an how much pressure you have at your rails, if it doesint have spark then check your coil or timing belt

Sounds like a possible crank and/or cam sensor or ignition coil pack issue. might also be fuel filter/pump issue too.

Run a computer diagnostic scan to see what you can find. You'll be able to borrow, rent or buy an OBD code scanner from most auto parts retailers in your area.

If that doesn't show anything, try a compression test. If the compression test is good, just replace the plugs, rotor, cap and wires.

A turn key project means that when completed the buyer has to do nothing but turn the key and drive away.

depend serveral things , you have to tell more of the problem

On top of the steering column, there is a small access cover. Pry that off with a small screwdriver and underneath there is a bypass that you can press to shift the car back to Park.

I am not a mechanic but have dealt with old cars most of my life. It has been my experience that a starter does not just die right away. It "drags" or does not have that clean, robust spinning sound you associate with a car which starts normally, say within 3 seconds after you turn the key. In the past I have found usually it is the starter bendix or the starter solonoid. From my understanding, the bendix is a gear like device which enables the starter to engage the engine. The solonoid is like a switch that turns on the starting equipment. There are so many things that can go wrong with a car electrical system that I suggest you find a really GOOD starter shop. Too many times even competent mechanics use trial and error and you really need some theoretical understandng of electronics to make a proper diagnosis. Geoff

If you follow the positive battery cable it will lead you right to the starter. Mark

vacuum leak

Blown fuse or defective fuel pump relay.

Presumably you mean slow cranking. Check for weak battery or bad starter.

If not slow cranking so much as long cranking time check for loss of fuel pressure overnight using fuel pressure gauge. If so, suspect leaking injector or possibly leaking regulator.

The relay is a device that typically uses low amperage 12 vdc electrical (control voltage) to switch a much higher amperage circuit (load voltage). In the case of an ignition relay, the key/ignition switch is not capable of handling the high amperage requirements of the engine components electrical draw, so a relay is run in the circuit and controlled with the keyswitch. The relay has an electromagnet (control) and a switch (load) inside, and the electromagnet moves the switch when the control is energized. You do not ALWAYS have to have a burned fuse to have a bad relay, the contacts on the switch can burn, or the wire in the electromagnet can open, both resulting in a non-functioning relay.

92 octane is recommended

check the battery,check the starter, see if their both good. It's the battery, if all it does is click. The clicking is the starter trying to start but not having enough electricity.

check starter bendix gear or flyweel missing teeth, make sure engine is physically turning it may just sound like it from starter noise,other then that need a Little more info good luck

Check your fuel pump and/or fuel pump relays

Some cars have a fuel cut-off switch that upon an impact kills power to the fuel pump. From my experience it doesn't take much of an impact to trigger this switch. Most vehiles with this feature have a reset switch located inthe trunk area.

There are a number of reasons.

It is not painted, or covered by a corrosion resistant material, as the height temperatures it is exposed to would tend to burn-off or other wise remove such coatings.

The exhaust gases passing thought it contain corrosive substances such as sulphur oxides (Sulphuric acid) Nitrogen Oxides (Nitric acid) to name a few. Even the use of corrosion resistant coating may not be enough to protect against these, given that chemical reactions are improved with heat (IE the hotter it is, the faster it goes), and exhausts are hot.

Also, one of the products of combustion is water, and water rusts iron/steal, even in the absence of acids.

Other metals could be used, but the additional costs of using stainless steel, or perhaps aluminum, are (one must assume) currently not seen as beneficial by purchasers.

It should also be noted that over time the "sound absorbent" material within the exhaust, normally glass fibre, becomes impregnated with carbon. This means that an exhaust that wound last for ever would still need to be replaced eventually, as is would lose it's sound absorbing properties.

If the 2004 Nissan Maxima won't start and won't come out of Park, one thing to do would be to try moving the steering wheel back and forth while trying to move the gear shift out of Park. If this does not work, the thing to do might be to reprogram the key. Some car keys have a computer chip in them to prevent theft.

The starter is either jammed in the open position and is already engaged in the flywheel and won't retract, or the motor is just plain burned out. You will have to pull it and take it to Auto Zone where they will test it for free for you. You can pull it and test it yourself by grounding it and applying power with a FAT HEAVY INSULATED cable and see if the end flies out, but it could do so out of the car but not have the strength to do it under load. It's probably shot, sorry to say. Phil

Either car can he damaged if the cables are shorted out or reversed. If hooked up properly, damage is very unlikely.

Charge or replace the battery.