Car Starting Problems

If you have just replaced this starter then you probably have it hooked up incorrectly. If it is still the same old starter, then it has shorted out inside and needs to be replaced.

There is either a wire touching the frame or you have a faulty electrical device somewhere in the vehicle. You'll need to follow the wiring diagram and trace back through the biggest current draw. If it's not a wire touching the frame check the alternator and other potentially large current drains. FYI, if an alternator fails it CAN start putting a large drain on the system. Disconnect the alternator to see if the problem goes away. If not, start trying to isolate the problem.

la

Well..i saw my dad do this when my uncles car didnt start- you can get someone you know that has a good running car and boost yours with those things with the clipperz at the ends lol...but...yeah- hope you can find out more info about this from what I've said lol.

-Kalin

Yes, A car battery can have enough charge to turn on car electrical components but not start the car. This is not much of an indication of a bad battery however. Use a volt meter to test the power in the battery. If the battery seems low put it on a trickle charge. Most modern chargers will tell you if your battery is bad or not. The battery also has to be load tested to determine if it's good or not.

It is called 'bench testing' and requires that the starter be removed from the vehicle. Many repair shops and some parts shops can do a bench test cheaply, sometimes free, if the removed starter is brought to them. Firstly, after removing the starter, check the bendix gear (small gear inside the starter on a shaft) for excessive wear, cracks, or breakage. If any exists, replace the gear or entire starter as necessary. The bendix can often, but not always, be replaced by itself cheaply. Bench testing is done by securing the starter in some fashion, usually in a vise, but it can be strapped to something solid or held down with your foot (carefully, when voltage is applied the starter will want to jump, roll and twist with sometimes huge torque). Once the starter is secure, positive electricity is applied to the correct solenoid wiring stud (usually from a vehicle battery with jumper cables), and then the negative cable is touched to the to the starter housing. What should happen is that the bendix (small gear on the starter shaft) should fly down to the tip of the starter shaft and spin. If the bendix spins, but doesn't shoot down the shaft, the starter solenoid is bad. Replace the solenoid. This is usually cheaper than replacing the entire starter, but check both prices and judge the best action. If nothing happens at all, try a different wiring stud (if more than one is present). If still no response, the starter probably needs to be replaced. When obtaining a new starter, take the old one along for reference and possibly a confirmation bench test to determine the correct parts required.

Lack of fuel .

Do the lights come on? Do you have correct operating voltage? What type of car is it? Does the car crank but not start? Do the error lights come on and dim while in the start position? Please answer 1 or some of the questions and I will be able to answer with a more accurate answer or possible solution.

Check for loose or corroded battery cables Check for loose connection at starter or ground

Is the steering wheel turned hard against the lock? Try moving the steering wheel back and forth hard at same time turn key.

To disable the kill switch on a Jeep Grand Cherokee, locate the switch, which is usually found under the dashboard or near the steering column. Turn the switch to the "off" position or remove the fuse associated with the kill switch if applicable. Consult the vehicle's owner manual for specific instructions related to your model year, as the location and operation can vary. If you are unsure or encounter difficulties, consider seeking assistance from a professional mechanic.

I can not help unless I know what kind of vehicle it is.

Since you changed your battery and starter I'm assuming you are getting fuel and spark is your problem. You should check your starter relay, the wires from the relay to your starter, the wires from your battery to the relay, the wires from your locking cylinder to the relay, and your locking cylinder. You might also check your alternator. You can take it to a parts store to have it bench tested for free.

212 f, 373 k

too cold!

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Take the vehicle in for diagnosis and tuneup. Starting with tune up is a good idea if your planning on keeping the car. It may save diagnostic money. On the other hand if the problem is an expensive repair and you decide to dump the car, the tune up money is wasted. Check your records for the last tune up part replacement. You should have date and miliage. Are they due? If not, have the diagnosis done. Since this is a cold weather problem, I would be suspicious of a ignition module, coolant temp sensor or ignition coil pack problem (there are three of them). Pull the plugs and check condition, if two of the cylinder's plugs are black, see if they go to the same coil, that may lead you to a coil problem. I believe the older luminas (I assume we are talking the Lumina Car not the Lumina APV Van) have the coil and ignition module on the firewall side of the motor. The crank shaft sensor is a common problem on those. It is under the ignition module. Post you findings. It may have a problem starting especially in cold weather because you battery could be bad. Cold weather starting is hard on a battery. Just go have you battery and your alternator checked and most likely one of those is the problem. Had the same problem. The Chevy dealership had no clue what to do. Replace the spark plugs and coat plug ends (side where cable attaches with di-electric grease. Remove EGR valve from plenum. There is probably a ton of carbon deposit in the port hole (should be about one inch in diameter. Use a dremel tool to grind out the carbon and a shop vac to suck up the debris. You don't want the debris going into the plenum! Be sure to clean up the carbon on the EGR port hole as well. I'd replace the oxygen sensor too. Cheap fix - about $35. Re-assemble and your car will run like new again, the heater will blow hot air again, and your gas mileage will improve noteably.

There could be so many problems. Batery, starter, alternator, serpentine belt, no spark... the list is endless. spark plugs? spark plugs?

If the tracker is a "standard shift" not automatic transmission. You could pop start the engine by putting the car in 1st gear, with the clutch pedal down and the ignition on. Roll the car and once car is rolling release clutch pedal. Vehicle should start, hope this is what you ment by "manually".

The engine coolant temp switch could be a possiblity.If I give it a little gas with foot on brake it does not hesitate and the fuel is running very rich

Check the timing on it along with your plugs and wires.The backfire is from gas not burning completely and ignites in the exhaust.Most likely its the timing which can be set by turning the distrib very very little at a time till prob is solved.

first need to know at what point did it start acting this way. normally rotarys are very sensitive if not heated up engine tends to flood. check to see if engines flooded first, then check for spark and fuel. same thing happened to my rx-7 found that two injectors were not firing due to bad grounding, which injectors ground through the ecu(computer), determined i had a bad ecu replaced it and runs great.