Clutches and Flywheels

Most of the mass of a flywheel is concentrated at the rim so as to have large moment of inertia for the same mass.This is due to the fact that the moment of inertia varies as the square of the distance from the axis of rotation.

to replace the clutch assembly is not too bad for parts,you will need a clutch plate,pressure plate and release bearing.Rebuilt is fine used is not,and you may need to have your flywheel resurfaced.You can feel with your finger if it feels rough,it should be smooth and not have any blue spots on it.Like I said the parts aren't real bad but the labor a mechanic would charge won't be cheap,but you should be able to do this yourself with just a little mechanical skills.But you will need a fllor jack to lift your truck and a pair of good jack stands,and an alignment tool for the clutch ,do not attempt this if you don't have the jack and jack stands as the truck could fall on you and hurt or kill you,so please if you attempt this be SAFE.Because saving a few bucks isn't woth getting hurt.Good Luck

Clutch safety switch =- should be on the top of the clutch pedal under dash area Neutral safety switch could be at the lower end of the gearshift handle or at the side of the transmission

You have to remove the engine and gearbox. you will need a engine crane. Once you have the engine and box out, remove gearbox from engine and replace clutch,

Refit gearbox to engine, put engine and gearbox back in car. Easy job if you have access to a engine crane.

posse

http://www.fiatforum.com/punto-technical/112771-help-bleeding-clutch-2000-punto.html

the opposite side the flywheel bolts to the motor

In other words, it doesn't matter unless you notice something different from one side to the other. On the ones that came from the factory, the center hole is slightly flared making it easier to install. Can't remember if the aftermarket ones are like that or not.

usually a clutch will cost u around $300 to $400 , it is pain to try to do one yourself, trust me , i been there done that, good luck

no. the clutch master cylinder is under the hood, typically near the brake master cylinder, and the slave cylinder is underneath, connected to the fork and throwout bearing on the transmission.

You must first pump the clutch about 50 times.This system is a pressurized system.you have to pump the cluth 40 to 50 times EVERY time.Once the air is out of the system,you must pump it up to create a stored pressure.

You will need to remove the transmission to replace the clutch slave.

No! BUT it may remove certain type stains anyway. There are a lot of warnings on a lot of cleaning products that SAY: TEST THIS ON A HIDDEN AREA OF YOUR PRODUCT BEFORE USING ON THE STAIN.

As it works by friction, it's made of about the same material as brake pads.

God

The amount of free play depends on what vehicle you are asking about. It also depends on if it has a hydraulic or manual clutch. Need more information.

well. whenever you have a low idle, you use first gear to accelerate. if u have a higher idle or throttlebody, you can just start in second gear.

Obviously this would depend on who does the work, but I'll give you some basic facts from my own experience.

To replace my car's clutch at about 90k miles cost about $1,200. This included the flywheel - I believe it was reconditioned instead of outright replaced. I think the flywheel only has to be replaced if there is a significant degree of slippage before you bring the car in, as was my case. So, if you catch a slipping clutch quickly, you may cut down on the cost of the repair significantly.

My car's clutch was replaced at a Toyota dealership in Minnesota.

Loosen the bleed screw next to the entry point on the transmission, open the clutch master cylinder (drivers' side rear corner of the engine bay), and let it bleed. It's helpful to use a hose over the bleed screw that goes into a bottle so you can watch for bubbles. Keep an eye on the fluid level as it should drop fast. Don't pump the clutch or hold it down. The bleeding is supposed to just happen with gravity. Good luck

Where are the good wrenches now. Do yourself a favor and buy a Honda or Toyota. Peace

A clutch is a device that connects or disconnects the powersource to the gears. A gear on the other hand is the actual device through which power is transfered.

In a car you typically have five forward gears, one reverse gear, and one clutch.

In the simplest design, the engine drives a shaft - which drives a gear - which drives the wheel. The clutch allows the engine to spin either engaged or disengaged from the shaft. You can think of it like mixer... there are different speeds you can choose, but if you don't have the bit engaged it won't spin... The clutch essentially is like taking the bit out of a beater.

Hope that makes sense

Clutch will slip, chatter, smell, or otherwise not function as it should.

Possible but very expensive without a donor car for the parts. I would suggest you forget this and sell this car and buy a manual.

Answer

the best thing to do is remove the transmission. the flywheel is bolted on the back of the engine.

If possible, pressure wash the underside of the truck. Get under there real clean; we work on these things to make them better, not to put dirt into everything.

Ok; You HAVE to remove the transmission. Of course, using all safety precautions including Good Jack Stands and a level surface, raise the vehicle.

Remove the driveshaft from the rear end. put the clamps and nuts back in the yoke for safe keeping.

Remove the shifter and boot. Look at the truck floor from underneath. Is there a large panel held by screws? If so, remove the seats and carpet. (Don't try to tilt the motor down as this will likely break something.

Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Don't even try the bench press method. Work smarter, not harder.

Remove the crossmember.

Remove the slave cylinder and carefulloy set aside without kinking the hose.

Remove the Starter after assuring the battery is disconnected.

Remove the front flywheel cover

Remove speedometer cable if equipped, (otherwise sensor is in the rear axle

Unplug Neutral B/U light wires

Remove Bellhousing to Engine bolts.

Move entire transmission rearward, straight until clear of input shaft then lower and move aside.

Remove pressure plate bolts surrounding perimeter of flywheel.

Remove clutch with pressure plate

Using flywheel holder, remove flywheel bolts. Important!!! Leave at leat two "Finger tight" until the flywheel is supported and ready to be removed. Use leather work gloves when handling the flywheel. Do not drop it on your head or anything else that you don't want to see blood come out of.

Take the flywheel for either surfacing or replacement. Don't imagine sanding it or else the new clutch will slip badly. Get a new clutch , pressure plate and throwout bearing. If the slave cylinder is inside there, replace it also.

Inspect/lubricate or replace pilot bushing in the crankshaft end.

Clean all bolts and mating surfaces of the crankshaft and flywheel, align boltholes and guidepins and insert a couple of bolts to hold while the CLEAN and locktite laden bolts are replace. Torque to specs found in the manual. Insert a pilot tool thru the clutch while mating up the pressure plate. Again clean, locktite and torque the pressure plate bolts.

Replace the transmission by inserting carefully in a straight line , placing the input shaft thru the clutch splines. Sometimes rocking longitudinally helps, other times pulling back and rotating the input shaft to align with the clutch splines. watch that the bellhousing to engine surface areas are parallel. continue to work with it until it mats. Don't dream of getting close and forcing together with the bolts. When the flanges mate, then insert bolts. Replace crossmember. (Sometimes help from above with a strap such as used to tie down motorcycles.)

Reconnect wiring, Slave cylinder and speedometer as applicable. Ensure that all wireties and clamps etc as placed by the factory are put back. (They are only there because they have to be, not just because Ford had a lot of money to spend on frilly little clamps.)

Replace driveshaft after inspecting/ lubricating or replacing u-joints.

Top off the transmission oil to level as indicated in the manual.

Bleed the slave cylinder. Even if you didn't replace it or lose the fluid, change the fluid.

Replace the shifter

Double check all bolts up to this point. Put a wrench on them, nobody has torque-eyeballs.

Replace covers as removed and the starter. (Go ahead and look closely at the starter while it's off; replace rather than get stranded.)

Take a can of paint and touch up the frame, crossmembers as needed.

Reconnect battery. Clean the terminals while You're there.

Start it up for a bit and be sure everything is bolted up correctly. Don't go putting it in gear and running it up on the jack stands. Not only dangerous but drives the ABS nuts.

Allow everything to cool down, check everthing again including oil levels.

Change the motor oil and filter.

Pull a couple wheels off and look at the brakes. ( Its up on stands, the tools are out and you are already kinda dirty.)

Put the floor panel back in once ensured all bolts are tight. Put the carpet back in and then the seats.

Open the bonnet and face the car. Look straight down behind the radiator and find the front engine mounting bracket. Just above that and slightly to the right is a is a lever that moves left/right with a boot on it. This will move when someone presses the clutch whilst sat in the car to help you identify it.

When you have identified this moving lever, look to where the lever disappears into the body of the engine and just above it will be a small nipple, normally covered by a rubber cap.

Remove this cap and follow the instructions for bleeding the clutch (loosen valve a half turn, have a friend GENTLY push the clutch in until fluid comes out and re-tighten valve. Take care - it can spurt!).