Clutches and Flywheels

No, you typically do not have to remove both driveshafts to change a clutch. In most vehicles, only the driveshaft connected to the transmission needs to be removed to access the clutch assembly. However, the specific requirements can vary based on the vehicle's make and model, so it's always best to consult the service manual for detailed instructions.

To install a transmission in a Chevy S10 6-cylinder 2.8 with 4-wheel drive, start by safely lifting and securing the vehicle. Remove the driveshaft, shift linkage, and any electrical connections to the transmission. Unbolt the transmission from the engine and remove it from the vehicle. Position the new transmission, reattach it to the engine, reconnect the electrical components, driveshaft, and shift linkage, and finally, fill the transmission with the appropriate fluid before testing.

If your fan clutch has a little play in it, it could indicate wear or damage in the bearing or internal components. This play may lead to inefficient cooling, as the fan may not engage properly. Additionally, excessive play can result in vibrations and noise, potentially causing further damage to the engine or cooling system. It's advisable to inspect or replace the fan clutch to ensure optimal performance.

The cost to fix or replace a flywheel for a Chrysler Town and Country typically ranges from $500 to $1,200, depending on the mechanic's labor rates and whether you're using OEM or aftermarket parts. Additional costs may arise if related components, such as the clutch or transmission, need repair or replacement. It's advisable to get a detailed estimate from a trusted mechanic for a more accurate assessment.

Any time system is opened it will need to be evacuated prior to charging Also accumulator/drier should be changed at the same time

The brakes and clutch share the same reservoir.

did you hone the cylinder before you replaced the parts

The clutch damper softens the response of the clutch engagement/disengagement. It can definitely be removed, you just need to connect the 2 pieces that lead to and from it, fairly simple mod on most cars. The damper should (or most do that need it) have its own bleeder screw for bleeding the clutch hydraulic system (usually one on the slave cylinder and one on the damper itself. if you aren't bleeding both from lowest to highest (air goes up, bleed from the bottom up) that might be your problem. If you do remove the damper the clutch feel will be much stiffer and more responsive, i.e. you will be able to feel more when it engages and disengages.

Blower fan? Cooling fan? Check fuses Check to see if you are getting power to fan motor If so --bad fan motor If not -- does it comes on when A/C /defrost is on? Coolant temperature sensor?

clutch wont work

will also leak fluid

A throwout bearing can make a whistling sound- really more of a chirp than a whistle. Unfortunately, it sounds like you are in for a new clutch assy.

A neutral safety switch is located on a steering column or center console depending on where your gear selector is placed, and is for automatic transmissions. the clutch safety switch is located near the floor board on the firewall where the clutch petal meets it when depressed. in both cases these switch brackets can get bent or loosened

pull forward on a bent bracket, or tighten the strap and adjust in both cases to ensure the lever is engaging this button.

You don't say what kind of car you have and some don't shift at higher speeds. Adjust the throtle cable and that should help if possible,.

Inertial mass (assist smaller engines by storing and releasing torque on take-off)

Vibration dampening (the make-up of the flywheel also lends itself to dampening)

Power transfer (this is how the power is transferred from the crank to the transmission)

Engine starting (this is where the starter teeth engage the flywheel ring gear)