Clutches and Flywheels

To get the cable outer free of the bulkhead you need to work inside the car - the cable is a tight snap fit in the hole with plastic "barbs". I cut a notch in the surrounding rubber gasket so that I could see the end of the cable outer. Then use a pin punch and a hammer to free the cable from the hole. I broke off one of the barbs which is of no consequence on the old cable. As you have discovered, there is no access under the bonnet due to the steering rack.

The real joker with this job is access to the top of the clutch pedal to release the spring clip to enable the plastic end of the new cable to be hooked in (this is where they always break). Unless you are Houdini, take the nut off the clutch pedal pivot bolt, get an assisant to open a brake bleed nipple and lower the brake pedal sufficiently to free the captive pivot bolt. Fitting the new cable inner to the top of the clutch pedal is now "easy". Bleed the brake if you have let any air in, and don't forget to top up the fluid. To get the new cable outer back in the hole, refit everything and get an assistant to press the clutch pedal whilst you guide the outer into position under the steering rack.

I replaced an auto-adjust cable with a manual adjust type from a motor factor - very cheap. Beware, there are two patterns of cable with differing bulkhead fittings, both are available. The manual adjust cable has been no problem in use and requires very little adjustment, just make sure there is a little free play at the pedal. Best of luck; it's easier than it sounds when you've done one, and mind your back!

According to the manual removal of the fan/clutch on the 5.2 can be accomplished by "grasping the belt or pulley with one hand and rotating the fan blade in the opposite direction"

In reality you'll need an item called a spanner wrench which will be nearly impossible to find from a local parts store. You can special order an adjustable spanner wrench or I could probably sell you the one I built when I removed my own fan. It's not a difficult item to build, essentially you'll need two lengths of flat stock, about an inch wide will do. Basically you need a longer section and a shorter section that can be bolted together to form a "y" and the ends if the "y" you'll need to drill a hole and insert a bolt, you may be able to put a nut on the bolt to keep it in place, I welded the bolts in the ends of the one I built. These bolts should be of a size that will fit in the holes on the face of the pulley. Once you've constructed a "y" bolted together so that the ends can be opened or closed, and installed a bolt at the ends of the "y" you can simply put a bolt in two of the four holes on the face of the pulley, now you can firmly hold the pulley with one hand and use a large adjustable wrench on the nut located at the rear of the fan/clutch.

At that point you should be able to turn the wrench and unscrew the fan/clutch from the pulley.

Note, the pulley is pressed to the water pump shaft so it is not essential for the fan/clutch to be in place for the engine to be run (on my jeep I removed the fan/clutch and installed an electric fan instead)

I can provide pictures of both my jeep and the tool I built upon request and if you're not someone who can fabricate I would sell the tool I constructed for a nominal fee.

There is no clutch cable its hydrolic.

Hello every body!

Guys, can you tell me how to change my clutch in my little Toyota pickup.

I am starting to lose footing and the engine is reabbing high when i shift gears....

Can you tell what i need to do, and thank you so much..

Yours Natali

Its self ajusting! all you do is pull the peddle up and press it down

Because diaphragm clutches aren't strong enough to survive in a heavy commercial vehicle.

depends on the year ? 57 plate we have just done was solid !

I pretty positive that you would also need the bell housing and flywheel from the 93 4.0 I worked at a salvage yard and thoes 4.0s engine and tranny had to stay the same

A clutch consists of a shaft coming from the engine with a round plate mounted on it, called the 'flywheel', a disc made of some ablative material, which is connected to the transmission, a pressure plate, which squeezes the clutch disc against the flywheel, and a throw-out bearing, which is how the force to disengage the clutch is applied to the pressure plate. When a clutch goes out, the parts often come loss, and can damage other parts if the engine is kept operating for very long or at high RPMs. The most common cause of clutch failure is the ablative material of the clutch disc wears down to the point where it comes apart when it contacts the flywheel. If the vehicle is driven when this happens, it can result in the pressure plate and flywheel having to be replaced. A clutch which won't disengage, but does not slip indicates a broken throw-out bearing, which means parts thereof are flying around the clutch housing. In any case, this requires major mechanical work to repair properly.

could be several things. the signal comes from the switch on your dash and follows wiring to a relay and more wiring to the clutch. you are bypassing all of that when "jumping" the clutch. if it works when jumped the clutch is good. get a test light and check the wiring to the clutch. good luck....a/c wiring sucks

On a ( 1996 ) Mercury Tracer :

The brake fluid reservoir also is the clutch fluid reservoir and it takes :

( DOT 3 brake fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A )

A clutch generally refers to a bird and its eggs or chicks.

If you are working on a 5.7 liter motor, this should help you. First, you need to disconnect the battey, and drain the antifreeze. Remove the upper fan shroud because it is just easier to get at everything. (7 screws) If you don't have the specialty wrench that is shaped like half of an "H" it is going to be alot harder for you to get the large nut broken loose from the fan pulley. I went to the auto parts store and used theirs. You take the half-H tool and fit it over the 4 bolts that hold on the pulley, and you put the 36mm wrench over the big nut. That nut is a 36mm nut that you have to break loose from the pulley. The threads are right handed so you need to turn the nut counter-clockwise to break it loose. Once you get it broken loose it's easy. Remove the fan/clutch assembly. With the serpentine belt still on, loosen the 4 pulley bolts. You can do this with the belt off, but it's easier if you just leave the belt on to do this. After you have broken the bolts loose, remove the belt. You need to stick a 3/8" drive into the belt tentioner and crank it counter-clockwise to loosen the belt. Now, you have to disconnect the large hose at the bottom left, and there are 2 hoses on top. You need to remove the 4 bolts that are securing the water pump to the block before you can get to one of the smaller rubber hoses. Once you have removed all 4 bolts (2 on the right and 2 on the left) it will be alot easier to get the clamp on the rubber hose. OK. You've disconnected 2 small rubber hoses, a large rubber hose, and 4 bolts. Your water pump should be disconnected. Make sure that you scrape the old gasket material off of the block before you put your new water pump on. Put some silicon or rtv on the new gasket to keep them attached to you new water pump or you will have a hell of a time lining them up when you are installing your new pump. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure you put in as much antifreeze as it will hold. (50/50 mix) Check the antifreeze level in the radiator after you've taken it out to check for leaks and have let the motor heat up. Warm it up enough so that your thermostat opens and lets the antifreeze into the motor. Good Luck Mike

I don't mean to insult, but are you sure you are looking at the clutch master cylindar and not the brake? There is no way fluid from the clutch could make it to the rear wheel. The slave cylinder is most likely the problem if it drips near the wheel. Replace it with a rebuilt unit not a kit.

The clutch, for all intents and purposes, is a method of disengaging the powertrain(engine) from the wheels. When the clutch is engaged the power from the engine is transferred through the clutch to the wheels, so the wheels turn at the same speed as the engine (Note! This assumption is only correct when there is no gearbox or any similar equipment in the system). When you put your foot on the clutch pedal it disengages the the engine from the wheels, so that the car will freewheel like when you stop pedaling on a bicycle. Most clutches usually are friction plate clutches. A spring forces the plates together normally so that the plate on the input side of the clutch and at the output side are touching. The friction of the plate surfaces cause the two to spin together as if they were one piece. When the clutch is disengaged the two plates are forced apart. The engine side plate spins as usual but the "wheel side" slows down and eventually comes to a stop.

This video explains everything.

The engine doesn't make force constantly, but only when the pistons have explosions on their respective chamber... so there are power-spikes = vibration.

This dual mass flywheel, uses an intermediate piece with some strong springs that smooth out the vibrations of the engine and gears, giving a more constant flow of power to the wheels.

http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ

AUTO parts store have a tool to hold the pulley. I used a 24" pipe wrench then turned 36mm or 1 and 7/16" nut with right hand treads, should loosen to drivers side.

It can need a new slave or master cyl. TAke it to a garage as it is hard to bleed and to work on.

if it is a 4wd you need to remove the engine from the vehicle

the clutch system on an early 200sx is hydraulic (NON ADJUSTABLE). 1994 and up is a cable...adjust the release lever on the trans 1/8" to 5/32", by loosening the lock nut (12mm wrench) and turning the plastic wheel with your fingers, tighten lock nut recheck...pedal height should equal that of the brake and is adjusted on the pedal assembly (14mm wrench) bolt with lock nut. this should give you pedal freeplay of 1/2" to 3/4"...all else being in proper repair...disc not worn, cable not bad ect.

There is no adjustment on a master/slave hydraulic clutch system. It is self adjusting every time you release the pedal, the hydraulic fluid is released back into the reservoir and pressured equalize, just like the brakes. However you can diagnose problems usually quite easily based on the symptoms. If the clutch pedal will not disengage the clutch, then the master or slave cylinders are bad. It could also be caused by low clutch hydraulic fluid, but the system does not consume fluid so if it is low then there is a leak, usually at the master or slave cylinders, so we are back to the first answer again. If the clutch will disengage but will not engage properly, (slipping) then the clutch disc is worn out. If you have to pump the pedal several times for it to work then their is likely air in the system that needs to be bled out, but this condition would lead to the next logical question, "how did air get in the system"? and would have to be answered, and would probably be due to low fluid, due to a leak, due to a bad master or slave. SO, you really have two choices. A bad master or slave or a worn out disc depending on if it wont engage or wont disengage. Forget about adjusting it because you can't!

I just cleaned my 03 ttr90 carb for the first time and it was pretty easy. First remove the seat and the rear fender plastic it gives you alot more room to work. Next turn the gas off and remove the fuel tank. tremove the two Allen wrench bolts holding it onto the motor and unscrew the air intake tube towards the front of the bike. Remove the choke cable and the throttle cable and unplug the two connectors on top of the carb. Drain the fuel out and unscrew the four bolts on the bottom (fuel bowl). Inside youll find the the two jets that get plugged. Unscrew them clean with carb cleaner and blow with air. Squirt all openings to clean. Make sure you don't loose the pin that holds the float to the carb like I did for alittle bit it is loose. Reinstall the jets don't over tighten and put the throttle cable and the choke cable back on (I found this to actually be the most difficult part its hard to get them lined up and make sure they work good. Reinstall the carb hook up all lines and while your there get a new fuel filter and replace it. Dont try to save money on the filter for there specially designed to fit in the tight space. (get it from Yamaha) This is the first time Ive done somthing like this and kind of enjoyed it.

You need a 3 way flywheel puller. Remove the retaining nut and insert three 1/4 inch bolt into the holes in the secondary.

I had to pull so hard on mine i thought the bolts would pull out of the secondary. but they held. I tried heat it some with a oxy acetylene torch to no avail. Finally I picked up the 1/2" impact and wound it up even tighter and it popped loose frm the taper

It is located on the clutch slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is mounted on top of the transmission. Have someone push on the clutch cable and you will see movement on the cylinder.