Combustion Engines

Yes - I've replaced the 1.9 8v engine in my 1989 205 GTi 1.9 with the 16v engine from the 405 Mi16. Only minor mech mods are needed with no welding or structural work.

It goes like stink (c.165 hp goes well in a 950kg car!), has a better fuel injection system (Motronic as opposed to Jetronic) so is smoother and mreo fuel efficient.

I'm also aware of people putting the 405 SRi 1.9 8v into a 205, also the 2.0 16v from the later Mi16.

Other popular engine swaps include the 2.0 8v turbo from the Citroen XM and the 16v engines from the 306 s16 and GTI6.

These are all XU series engines, not sure about the TU engined 205s. The XU-based diesel engines are all fairly interchangable too.

The forum at www.205gtidrivers.com will give you all this info and more (including one guy with Mi16 engines in the front AND the back)

maturin23

The engine number for a 1997 Holden Vectra is on top of the engine itself. it is engraved into the metal of the engine.

thinking on the electrical fan this car has if I remember rite the grand am regal and Oldsmobile all have a thermostatic electric fan. But if the sensor isn't working to tell it to go on it wont. Suggestion make sure with test light that there is current at the fan motor on both sides of sensor.

a literary license term for a weapon. a submachine gun would fill the bill, as it is designed to take human life.

3.8 liter tauras and sable, t-bird 3.8 wont work.

In diesel engine ,air alone without any fuel is drawn by the falling piston during inlet stroke. In petrol engine, the mixture of air and fuel is drawn in by the falling piston during inlet stroke.

There is no difference in the act of actually setting the timing. Inlet valves open slightly before the piston reaches top dead centre, by how much depends on the manufacturers specifications.

The cubic capacity of an engine and the speed of the vehicle are different things.

A boat fitted with an engine would not attain the same speed as a motorcycle fitted with a similar engine.

well if something is leaking and your engine is overheating i assume coolant is leaking from your car. that in a matter of speaking is a good thing since you know what the problem is, now you have to find the leak, you could visually look and see were the leak is, however the best way would be to pressure test the cooling system and find the leak that way, luckily you have a very simply engine and repairs are done very easily, once you find the leak, like a hose or radiator, or what ever it is, then the engine is set up simply enough that any mechanically inclined person should be able to figure out how to remove and replace defective part. fill up cooling system and bleed system. pressure check again to verify no leaks are present. test drive and verify proper driving operation. good luck..

It would have been faster, but the designer didn't want the turbo lag, he wanted the throttle response of a normally aspirated engine.

Possible lead wire for the fan shorting out. These problems may or may not be related. As the first contributor said, there might be a wiring problem in the fan switch to the fan motor circuit. Look for a wire rubbing on something else and look for the insulation on the wire to be damaged. Or the switch itself may be bad. I've seen them fail in the shorted (always closed) mode which will make the fan run all the time. This is probably not good on the fan motor as they are not meant to be used continuously. I can't recall right now what that switch looks like, but if you can get the wiring plug off the back of the switch and can get to the terminals that it plugs onto, you can put an ohm meter across the terminals. (do this with the engine off and stone cold) If the needle deflects, the switch is probably shorted (IE; bad) and needs to be replaced. OR, you can just try to CAREFULLY unplug the fan from the switch while the engine is running and the fan is running. If the fan stops, you can pretty much conclude the same thing...bad switch. NOTE: I don't really recommend this procedure. Fans can hurt you! Try to do this from UNDER the car if you can, so you can keep your fingers and clothing ETC away from the spinning fan. Also, this test presumes that the fan is still running all of the time. As to the Check Engine Light, be sure your fuel tank cap is real tight. If it's loose, it can cause the CEL to come on. Failing that, take the car to Auto Zone or Checker or wherever and have them put a code checker on the car's computer. They usually do this for free! It should give you some idea why the light is on.

Nothing at all the industrial revolution happened 40 years before the advent of the internal combustion engine and it happened a good hundred years before in england.

VERY tough LT1 was never offered in that truck so you have to use "trail and error" to find motor mounts, radiator, hoses, computer and wiring harness to make it run plus the V6 transmission wont hold up to the power of this V8 A better option is to buy all the parts from a wrecked 88'-'95 pickup or SUV and transplant everything This way you'll have a V8 and wont have to swap the dash, guages,and updated computer controls If you want a newer engine like the Vortec '96-'98, You'll need the whole wrecked truck and swap the guages, DLC(OBDII scanner connecter) the dash and wiring, electronic transmission, and ABS module and sensors, including the rear axle for the traction control/ABS Like I said VERY tough Stick with the '88-'95 and you'll buy replacement parts for a '90 with a V8

You will get less power and worse fuel economy. It will also rise engine temperature slightly. Warm air is less dense than cold which means lower compression = lower horsepower.

Yes, the 3.0 in the 2001 Dodge Stratus is an INTERFERENCE engine. Severe engine damage will occur if the belt breaks. The belt must be replaced every 60,000 miles.

pretty good explanation here...http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm

(to check the flow rate of water ... calculate the pressure drop

i think the question should read, can you transplant the 1.8 litre motor in to the ae101.

thing is, they are the same car, the 101 has a 1.6, and the 102 a 1.8.

you can, quite literally, take the motor out of the 102 and simply put it in place of the of the 1.6. they have the same mounts, hell they are the same engine, just that the 1.8 has a taller block. answer in short, yes, easily

You have to look on the side of the block behind the starter. Use of a mirror and flashlight makes this an easier task to perform.

Switch the ignition without starting the car to "drive-mode" (number 2) and hold down the trip-button for a few seconds, turn of the ignition and wait for a few seconds and it will be gone.

If its a Tubro (7m-gte) then replace it with the turbo engine (7m-gte) If its non turbo, replace it with the non turbo. The Supras from 1986.5 to 1992 were all interchange able. In fact, the engines from the 79-86 Supras will bolt in as well, how ever they will not plug into your stock harness. The "M" series block is very very interchangeable. Also the 7m Series engine came in the Toyota Cressida of the same years....but only in non turbo form.

Go to Gatesrubber.com this website lists all vehicles with timing belts and whether they are interference engines or not.

Yes. The Audi 2.7T twin turbo and 2.8 NA V6 are interference engines. The later generation V8 is also, but I believe they have chains. The recommended interval for changing the timing belt should NOT be ignored. If the belt breaks or slips you will have valve damage and more than likely piston damage as a result. At the time of a timing belt service, be sure to replace the water pump, and TB tensioner as well as the belt. All of these things can be accessed or are easily accessed when doing the belt.