Dodge Caravan

According to the 2001 Mercury Cougar Owner Guide :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is in the drivers foot well ,

behind the kick panel ( there is an access hole )

You have to figure out first, is it getting spark? Is it getting fuel? Have you disconnected a spark plug wire and cranked engine? Have you checked fuel pressure? . Start there first and get back. Need more info to help you.

Chrysler vehicles have a clicking sound when the starter is bad. It must be replaced, Sometimes they can be lighty smacked with a blunt object and will work for a while but will still need replaced..

try looking at your battery terminals if they are loose or broken

<< palmboy 051605>>

Well, ...

For a 1994 Lumina APV (3.8L), simply rotate the tensioner using a long adjustable or simlilar wrench (for torque) or tratchet/socket counter-clockwise. The tensioner is pulley-like mechanism between the power steering pump and the water pump. Once rotated, there will be slack in the belt to remove it from the remaining components.

Use the diagram (sticker) inside the hood cabin (near radiator) as a reference for routing the replacement belt. Position belt and rotate tensioner to provide slack for final belt placement (over alternator pulley) and release tensioner.

This is probably a similar procedure for your 1993 APV.

PB

If you have a MPFI (multi port fuel injection) the injectors are either on the intake manifold or the cylinder head in either case they are usually close to where the intake manifold and cylinder head meet.There will be a fuel line feeding all injectors and a electrical plug to each one.Since I don't know what vehicle you are referring to,it is possible it has throttle body fuel injection,looks a little like a carburetor and will be on the intake manifold.

Caravan Pictures's motto is 'Spell your entertainment'.

Would have been built for R12, can be converted to R134a.

if you are installing a radio i would strongly suggest going to walmart and spending 6 dollars on a wiring harness. Make sure it is the one for your year, make and model of vehicle and also buy an installation kit. you will save yourself alot of time and frustration this way and when you are done, you will have a professional install. the wiring is easy this way as all you do is match up the wires

I have a 1993 dodge grand caravan, and have taken the alternator off of the bracket, but it will not fit down the back of the motorand under the fire wall. I have tried to remove the alternator bracket , but it looks as though it is trapped behind the tensioner pulley. I don't see how to remove the pulley bracket and don't know if this will work at all. What a crazy design! I hope someone out there can help.

if you look under your hood, on the drivers side you should see a black box for fuses it should be right there and labeled.

check out fuse #5. The link below is an excellent diagram of the fuse box for a 2004 Dodge GC. I blew the fuse with a small compressor while inflating tires. My brother in law was researching my prob w/ me & he found a source that tied fuse #14 to the radio as well if #5 doesn't get it.

I have the same problem on an '89 Dodge Dynasty. I am told that the odometer and speedometer in my car are driven by separate cables and that I simply need a new cable for my odometer to function properly again. I have not verified this information, but it might get you on track.

It is located in your distributor.

Take off the distributor cap.

Take off the rotor.

You will see it underneath there, its got a magnet piece.

Also, to make things more clear,

It is where the electrical connection plugs into on the side of the distributor.

That is the cam sensor.

Movements in your car's motor causes your car to move slightly from side to side. When the engine is running, the movements are so fast that the car is balanced - it doesn't have a chance to move to one side before the opposite force moves it back the other way. When you turn the engine off, these forces slow down and as the engine stops running the forces from side to side get slower until they actually move the car for a moment - and it shakes from one side to the other until the engine stops.

#1 -25 amp rear wiper & washer, #2 -15 amp radio, radio clock illum, lighter, dome lamp, #3 -empty, #4 -15 amp flash to pass, #5 -25 amp blower motor, #6 - 30 amp circuit breaker power windows, #7 -2 amp anti-lock breaks, #8 -20 amp turn signal flasher, #9 - 10 amp radio, courtesy lights, glove box, cargo, dome lamps, #11 -25 amp headlamp delay module, horns, #13 -20 amp power door locks, #15 -15 amp Instrument Panel lamps, clock, radio / clock illumination, rear lamps, front lamos, #16 - 30 amp circuit breaker powwer seats, trailer tow, #17 -7.5 amp inst. cluster gauges, headlamp delay module, chime module, #18 -25 amp heated rear window, #19 -5 amp instrument panel lamps, #20 -5.5 amp circuit breaker windshield wiper / windshield washer.

Most voyagers' starters are located one the left bank of the block on (the side closest to the radiator) right below the exhaust manifold against the transmission case where it bolts to the engine. the 3 bolts holding it on bolts come through the transmission case and in some cases the lower engine mounting braket depending on year and engine size of your particular application threaded side of the bolts pointing toward the front of the engine (passengers side of car) Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing it or any electrical leads attached. good luck!

In the cooler weather we are having, they will probably take longer to come on.

The side effect though has been the temperature guage spiking big time. Only spikes during city traffic, not highway. Oil is fine, radiator fluid is fine. Just those stupid fans don't ever fire up.

If you've got a 4.0 litre engine than you've got a Automatic belt tensioner on the engine. Sits to the right of the alternator. If your belt is loose, than you need to check that the belt is on properly on all the pulleys, or if you have the right belt. If the belt was made for a motor with A/C and yours doesn't have that, then the belt will be to long. Check with your local auto part supply store. Hope this helps...... For info on how to route the belt, get a chiltons manuel and it will have a diagram.

2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps! 2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps!

This is a specialist job and needs to be handeled by one, Sometimes the head needs to come off. Take it to a garage.

USALLY it's because of a BAD heater control Valve-butt the hoses can get full of crud & block the flow-ALSO if the Thermostat sticks open the engine won't develope enough Heat.& make sure there is Vaccume going 2 the Heater Control Valve.

It is on the drivers side of the radiator way down at the bottom. Mounted on the body metal. It is a semiconductor electronic device and does not look like a typical relay. I believe it has four wires that plug in with a connector and it has two screws to hold it. The size it aprox 3 x 2 inches and not very thick. You will need to remove the air box to access it. Good Luck

I have the same problem on my Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 1995. Seems to be a problem in Map sensor. I was also told it might be the ECU

Some are in the spare tire area.on a sticker I have seen alot of them on cars - in the trunk-An idea would b 2 call the dealer & ask where 2 find.Some are on the cover that covers the spare tire.