Dodge Ram

Replace the ABS module - from what I read it will cost about 900 bucks

Inside the alternator.

The original answer is incorrect. The low oil level sensor is located where the original answer states. The oil pressure sending unit is a separate part. The sending unit is located on the left rear top of the engine, behind the intake manifold mounted into the top of the block.

The problem MAY (educated guess) be a problem with the torque converter lockup clutch solenoid not releasing correctly. This would allow the engine to run normally in park and neutral, but the drive train would be locked into direct drive when you shift into gear, not slipping as it should, causing the engine to die instantly. Sometimes this can be diagnosed by unplugging the solenoid, in which case the transmission would work normally except the clutch would not "lock up" as it normally does at higher speeds for greater efficiency.

On the passenger side under the hood on the fire wall there is a vacuum hose along with a one way check ball valve, the vacuum line always brakes or cracks which will cause the air to only blow on defrost or blow from vents until you give it more gas or climb a hill. Find the broken vacuum line and repair it, that will fix the problem, if it doesn't you may have a check ball valve on that vacuum line that has gone bad.

Some one bought a sticker and put it on one of the trucks.

Could be that the thermostat is stuck open, new thermostat fixed my 2001 Dodge 3500. If your temperature gauge is not reading warm enough, could be the thermostat.

5w30 or 10w30

Yes, back of intake manifold.

Yes, back of intake manifold.

Automatic transmission fluid.

There is a connection issue between the trailer brake controller and the trailer.

This type of LSD has all of the same components as an open differential, but it adds a spring pack and a set of clutches. Some of these have a cone clutch that is just like the synchronizers in a manual transmission. The spring pack pushes the side gears against the clutches, which are attached to the cage. Both side gears spin with the cage when both wheels are moving at the same speed, and the clutches aren't really needed -- the only time the clutches step in is when something happens to make one wheel spin faster than the other, as in a turn. The clutches fight this behavior, wanting both wheels to go the same speed. If one wheel wants to spin faster than the other, it must first overpower the clutch. The stiffness of the springs combined with the friction of the clutch determine how much torque it takes to overpower it. Getting back to the situation in which one drive wheel is on the ice and the other one has good traction: With this limited slip differential, even though the wheel on the ice is not able to transmit much torque to the ground, the other wheel will still get the torque it needs to move. The torque supplied to the wheel not on the ice is equal to the amount of torque it takes to overpower the clutches. The result is that you can move forward, although still not with the full power of your car

When it has been pressed and the light is on, the transmission is limited to 3rd gear.

loosen the idler pulley and then remove the belt. then you remove the fan shroud i believe its like 4 bolts, then you remove the fan. after that you can remove the water pump.

Most likely it's the blend door. Check heatertreater.net for a full explanation of system operation and potential failures.

It is a standard eight lug pattern.

On exhaust, in front of each cat. convertor

yes and no. the 24V Cummins is electronic so any fueling mods must be made thru the vehicle's computer via a chip or programmer. the 12V were mechanical and adjustments could be made mechanically, or, "turned up."

if you disconnect the negative battery terminal for several minutes it will reset * On newer models it requires a "scan tool" available for purchase at most parts stores or at Sears. Also, many repair shops will do it for a small fee.

The alternator is on the passenger side of the car on the back side of the engine.

There are two methods. 1.) It is possible to maneuver your hand to the lock ring on each headlight assemble from inside the engine compartment. You must work "blind" -- by feel only. The lock ring rotates 1/4 turn to unlock. On the side of the engine with the battery, you must remove the front portion of the plastic battery box. 2.) This method is much easier. Three bolts (one at the top, two on the bottom) that hold the headlight assembly to the vehicle. Look directly at the headlight, and look in the gap between the top of the headlight and the vehicle fender, and also at the gap between the bottom of the headlight and the vehicle bumper. With the aid of a light, you should be able to see all three bolts. Using a socket and an extension to your ratchet, remove the bolts, pull out the headlight assembly, and remove the lock ring. TAKE CARE TO HANDLE THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY GENTLY so as to not alter the setting of the headlight in respect to the headlight frame. By taking care, it will not be necessary to have the headlight(s) adjusted (for aim). I have a 2002 Dodge Durango, and I have used both methods. I prefer removing the headlight from the vehicle.

Inside the rear of the alternator

I know on a '85 it's right below the alternator, they might be the same?

Check the chart on tis website. http://www.carmemories.com/cgi-bin/viewexperience.cgi?experience_id=232 Looks like it's 141 for the car. The trucks were different, having 69 cc heads (8:1 CR) compared to the car 63cc heads. Thuck HP I believe was 135.

They are 16" and 15" will not fit