Electric Windows

Burned out bulb?

You cannot manually close a power window. You must repair the problem causing it not to work. Check the fuse, power window switch, and if they are good, you may need a new motor.

If electric, take it to a garage or trim shop and have it checked out.

its like around $58 bucks. Not worth messing with. just replace it. I think its in the main fuse box in engine compartment

It has seemed to be a problem. Due to the center console it is easy for the arm to rest on the switch for the rear driver side window. This causes the spring that controls the window to break. It seems as if it is off track. You just need a new window regulator. Unfortunatly it is a dealer item and unless you you goto a junkyard it's expensive.

Bad relay, most likely.

first take out the door panel.Then your going to see two rollers Take the window gently off the rollers then pull window out repeat to install.

If its an automatic window, then the motors may be about shot. If its a manual window, have the tracking checked, it may be slipping off track.

I'm be damned, our 1998 is in the garage with the window down that won't go up. It was doing the same as yours except I made the fatal flaw of letting go all the way down. I took everything apart to get to the guts. My first though was the switch (which is $299 new at the dealer) but I think now it's just a bad motor. The driver's side in my Avalon also went out early in it's career. I'm looking for a used motor at the moment.

A 2.5mm electrical wire can safely carry up to 20 amps of current for general household use. However, it is always recommended to consult with a qualified electrician to ensure proper sizing and safety compliance for the specific application.

The tracks that the window rollers ride in are guncked up with old lube and dirt. I just cleaned the tracks out and lubed them with a light grease and my windows worked again. The window motor heats up and quits is the problem. If you don't attend to this you will have to spend up to $300.00 per motor plus labor to replace.

Probably because they're in the first stage of conking out entirely. If they go back up or partway up after you let them "cool off" for a few minutes, that's the problem. Replacing the motors is the only fix, there's no repairing them. But parts stores should have them.

You didn't indicate whether this problem happens while the vehicle is not moving as well as moving. My guess would be moving, meaning looseness in the window switch which causes contacts to close (touch) activating the window motor due to the vibration and up down motion of the vehicle.

WINDOW SWITCHES GO OUT VERY OFTEN....GO TO FORD AND BUY A NEW ONE.....ABOUT $85.00.................

wiggles bandaids

Most likely a broken wire in the hinge area of the door.

Here's how to remove the trim panel

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/uncategorized/remove-a-door-trim-panel-from-any-vehicle%E2%80%94-without-a-diagram

Here's how to test the window motor

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator

I had the same problem, so i opened the motor and there i found some plastic pieces that jammed the sprockets. So i ended up buying a new motor instead.

it sounds like the window relay is not working or not making good connection.....had this happen on a 1990 town car i used to own........the relay on the 1990 was behind the glove box.....you could drop the box down and thump the relay and windows would start working......finally replaced relay and no more problems..........good luck

Power for the windows comes through the 30 Amp circuit breaker #10, and then through the Accessory Relay. That is in turn controlled by the "Battery Saver Relay". That is controlled by the ever famous "GEM", the General Electric Module. I say ever famous as it has been the cause of many strange electrical issues in Fords. But, by all means, check the circuit breaker with a test light. Note, the interior light, door locks and more are also run through this same breaker. So if they work, that's not the issue.

In answer to your question when restoring leadlight windows is there a way to solder zinc to new lead? This seems to be a double edged question, I'll answer the last part first.

Of course you can solder zinc to new lead. Firstly you need to polish the surface of the zinc thoroughly with emery cloth, which scours the surface so it will accept flux so that the join can be effected. I find it best to do this before putting it in the leadlight. Thoroughly wire brush the leads either side of the zinc for a shiny clean surface as well and preferably use stearine flux on the leads but use a liquid flux on the zinc.

To answer the first part, which seems a little hazy, I would need more information to answer this part of the question as there could be so many scenarios involving the question as a whole.

Can I suggest you have a look at my instructional blog on Leadlighting Tutorials and lesson 4 (soldering) lesson 7 (repairs and restorations) and lesson8 (reinforcing) which deals with zinc.

Hope this will help you.

I remain yours faithfully,

John Jackson.

if the the motor is good you need to check the circuit breaker because the circuit breaker might be the problem. window doesnt go bad my dude the motor goes bad check it again

You would have to change the entire mirror assembly, including the electrical connections.

Merrill

right side under the dash

In a 1985 Mercedes-Benz, the window relay is typically located in the fuse box, which is situated on the driver's side of the dashboard. You may need to remove a cover to access the relays and fuses. Look for a relay labeled specifically for the power windows; the exact position can vary slightly depending on the specific model. Always consult the owner's manual for precise information related to your vehicle.

To replace the driver side electric window motor on a 1985 Ford E-150, first, remove the door panel by unscrewing and unclipping it to access the interior components. Disconnect the wiring harness from the old window motor and unbolt it from the regulator. Install the new motor by securing it to the regulator and reconnecting the wiring harness, then reattach the door panel. Finally, test the window to ensure proper operation before finishing.