Electric Windows

I was qouted $217.95 plus tax to replace a shattered driver window.

intermitting problem with no power at drivers door

How to remove the front door panels on a 2004 3/4 ton Silverado with electric windows and door locks.

The sliding door lock lever needs to come out. Use a small flat bladed screw driver, and it pops out from the hinge-end of the door. A steel bar/tab pokes into the back of it. Make sure to re-align it when you reinstall. There is a screw back here. Remove it. There is a screw behind the arm rest. Remove the trim panel that is triangular in shape and covers the mount bolts for the mirror. It just pops off. I Remove the trim ring around the interior pull lever- you have to remove it and a screw behind it. There is a screw behind the "button" to the left of the arm rest. pop it off and remove the screw. There is a plactic punch pin on the far right side of the paunal, remove it. There is a screw from the bottom of the door that holds the junk holder in the door. Remove it. You have a light in the lower part of the door, you need to remove it. Be careful, though, because I have popped the cover to the light off when you need to pop the entire light and housing out. It slides forward toward the hinges. Once you have removed these screws, the panel will lift straight up about 2". You will then need to angle the panel to get the pull handle through it. If you have electric everything you will have to unplug them from the switches. Don't worry about marking them because the bottom of the switch block is marked . Black, orange, blue. to match the plug ends. I don't know about the manual window, but in most cases there is a C- clip of some sort between the handle and the panel, so you may need one from Advance/Orielly etc. Chevy has a stud and clip design that the panel just locks right into- very few screws are required. Best of luck...

If it is anything like a 2003, there are several places to remove- the sliding door lock lever needs to come out. Use a small flat bladed screw driver, and I believe that it pops out from the hinge-end of the door. A steel bar/tab pokes into the back of it. Make sure to re-align it when you reinstall. There is a screw under the grab handle right in the open part of the handle. Remove the trim panel that is triangular in shape and next to the mirror. It just pops off. I don't remember exactly about the trim ring around the interior pull lever- you may have to remove it and a screw behind it. Once you have removed these screws, the panel will lift straight up about 2". I don't remember exactly, but If you have a light in the lower part of the door, you may need to remove it and the screw behind it. Be careful, though, because I have popped the cover to the light off when you need to pop the entire light and housing out. I believe it again slides forward toward the hinges. I don't remember if the light has a screw behind it or not. You will then need to angle the panel to get the pull handle through it. I don't know about the manual window, but in most cases there is a C- clip of some sort between the handle and the panel, so you may need one from Advance/Orielly etc. Don't forget to remove the plug from that light- It hooks me every time! Chevy has a stud and clip design that the panel just locks right into- very few screws are required, and the old plastic punch nuts are a thing of the past. Best of luck... I am trying to find out about a 2005, and things are a bit different on the 3/4 ton model.

If your window is sticking going up and down I would suggest spraying WD40 or some sort of silicone to lube the rubber. Spray it in the cannal starting at the front of the window than going half way up, then the backside half way up. Try using the window a few times.

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Yes, definitely. Keep the window channels lubed with WD40 to prevent this, especially on older models. Once the window motor is fried, you'd have to replace it. Prevention, prevention.

can probably raise the window/regulator by hand if you can remove the window motor from the regulator

You have to remove the door panel to gain access to the nuts and the wire inside the door. The door panel lifts up after the 3 screws are removed.

It's probably the master switch on the driverside door. I had to replace mine last year because mine did the same thing

Cut the cables with a side cutters. Tape the window up until you can replace the regulator. The old one is toast

First of all you must remove the door panel and check for any loose connections or damaged wires. If there are no obvious damage or loose connections then the window motor needs to be changed. It's not a major job but you have very little space to work with. Just remove the old one and replace the new one that is appropriate for your car. You can also find repair manuals at the library to help out. Most auto parts stores can basiclly tell you how to do the job or give you tips. I just changed mine and now the driver's side needs a new one also. Good luck and I hoped i was able to help. Jean

Start by removing the two Phillips screws in the door handle. Then remove the three holding the plastic trim strip at the back of the door next to the window. Now pull off the door panel. Grab the bottom of the panel and work your fingers behind it and just pull. It is held on by 5 or 6 plastic snaps. They might break but you can buy new ones at any parts store for like 2 or 3 bucks. To have easy access to the motor, unbolt the door handle bracket and remove all the plastic and foam insulation on the door. The bracket is the thing in the middle of the door sticking out with two 10mm bolts holding it down. There are now five rivets holding the motor in. It is actually attached to the entire window lifting mechanism and has to come out as one piece. I punched out the centers of the rivets and drilled them out with like a 1/4" drill bit. When there are two left you may want to brace the window up or have someone hold on to it because it will slide down on you. There is an electrical connector hooked to the assembly which you can unclip with your fingers. It is in one of the smaller holes toward the front of the door. Now you see at the big hole in the back of the door an arm that pushes the window up and down. With the window slid up and the rivets out, haggle with the arm and get it off the slide. This arm is attached to the lifting mechanism and the window motor. It's big and all comes out as one piece. That's the easy part. I have taken these things apart to see why this is such a common problem and it looks like the weatherproff sealing grease gets on the brushes and commutator of the motor and shorts out the motor. Theres just a bunch of black stuff in there. I cleaned it and put it back together with no improvement. So you will be needed a whole new motor and assembly. Good luck with the junkyards because this has happened on every jimmy I've owned and all that my friends have owned. I got lucky twice at the yard and found blazers that already had their motors replaced and worked good. But if you get one there have them hook it to a battery and raise it up and down a few times. Sometimes they work for a while and go out quick, plus most yards do not refund or exchange on any electrical parts. So that leaves the dealership and the parts store. Dealership probably wants way too much and I bet you can order these at any parts store also. I do not know how much they are but can't be more than 80 bucks. Good idea to take one of the plastic door panel snaps with you to get more. Now installation is opposite or removal. You can either re-revit or bolt the motor back in. You may have to tape the platic back in as the sealing goo is probably hard or worn off. Easy peasy, there you go. You probably just save 200-300 bucks over have a car place or dealer do it. Good luck!

It probably uses a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. It's location would depend on what vehicle you have.

if you need to replace the power window motor (& not the glass) -

remove the door panel by removing attaching screws at the handle & front, bottom and rear of the panel. remove the internal door lock knob on models with knob. then carefully using a door panel removal tool or super carefully with a flat blade screwdriver, by prying the door panel off (if it resists, you've likely left a screw in somewhere) starting prying at the bottom of the door & working your way upwards at front and back. once it's loose, you have to slide the door panel upwards to unhook it where it meets the window. with it removed completely, carefully peel back the moisture barrier plastic to reveal the door. at the very bottom of the door, you should see a small metal access panel. remove the panel to reveal access to the window motor. the motor is attached to the window regulator with three bolts. unplug the two wires leading to the motor first, by pinching the tab on the end of the plug & pulling away from the motor. once unplugged, pull the 3 attaching bolts & slide the motor out by twisting until it will fit thru one of the door holes. replace with new motor doing the reverse. when putting the door panel back in, make sure to firmly hook it over the top of the door & make sure it's pushed all the way down at both front and back before attempting to go any further - otherwise your door panel will be stuck "half off" & you'll have to remove everything all over again.

you have to replace the whole motor assy. you can buy after market from places like napa.

Power windows are protected by an automatic resetting circuit breaker.

Window motor i'd say. Both of mine have given up. €270 from Toyota for one, they can be had for £20 from eBay

under the dash left hand side or driver side behand the emergency foot brake pedal

this is general information on how to not specific to your vehicle. take off all of the handles, ie. door hand, pull handle. remove the panal by using the proper tool, place the tool behind the panel lift just enough to see where the attachments are. those are made of plastic, use the tool to pry up the holders. go slow be careful. they may break. The tool can be found at most parts stores. they are not expensive. the stores usually have the holders as well. Don't use a screw driver. More than likely you will break the holders, and may do other damage. the specific tool has a "V" shaped notch. hope it helps. duboff

According the the Chilton's manual for this car the "power window regulator" cannot be serviced separately and "If defective, replace the regulator and motor as an assembly." But if the motors is still working, maybe someone will know how help you get the cable back into place.

the cable is not sold alone you need to purchase whats called a window regulator you can buy it with motor or without. look it up on google many parts stores have this part.dealers get about 100.00 for no motor you can get this part for less then 30.00 bucks just lookup widow regulator for 2000 le sabre and shop around. they are guaranteed for a year and work great don't get ripped by gm dealer ther parts are made in mexico and so on

It is in the door. I suggest you take it to a trim shop to have it replaced.

It could a fuse on your fuse panel for power widows, it should be a larger fuse possible meltal one, possibly a 20 amp, and power doors could be a circuit breaker/ or fuse at the starter motor relay, in the wiring.

remove the screw in the inside handle then pop out the plastic piece and remove the screw inside there (big torx bit) remove any other visible screws and pop off the panels retainer clips, disconnect the power lock and window wires.

probably have broken part in window assy. that is covered by recall. take it to the dealer.