Electric Windows

u have to have the window rolled down about 4 inches. If the window is stuck up force it down and you can access 2 bolts holding it to the window. Only force it if you plan to replace the regulator.

I don't know the answer to the question but can someone PLEASE tell me how to get rid of ANSWERS.COM. I dared to asked one question ONCE and ever since they are flooding my inbox with all types of questions. If you know the answer to this real tough question please tell me how by writing a mail to lcfpedro@gmail.com.

I do thank you.

is the 30 amp fuse that on the junction block #1. j/b #1 is located on the side of the fuse panel on the drivers side of the interior. you'll need to remove the lower panels that are under the steering wheel and move the floor vents ductwork out of the way. you see three different fuses(the square type with the clear view covers). two are 40amp and one is 30amp. the 30 amp is it

I had the same problem with the left front window on my 2000 Malibu. I did voltage drop tests on all the leads to determine which ones controled that window, which should have been gray to brown, and dark blue to black but I couldn't make the window move by jumping them. O well.

GM probably did not change the color codes for the power window system in two years, but I can't guarantee that.

The colors for the other windows should be: Light blue and Tan for right front window, Dark Green and Purple for left rear, and Light Green and Purple for right rear. The brown wire at the driver's switchbox is power and black is almost always ground. Also noteworthy, the power for the window motors first passes through the driver's switchbox and then to the other switches in the car. From there the wires change color on their way to the window motors.

A mote of caution: you can damage the electrical system of your car by lack of electrical knowledge and/or experimenting with the wires including blowing lights, blowing fuses or tripping breakers(which are both annoying to locate), overheating wires (you might see smoke), and even melting them! High amp draws through a small wire can also burn you. So if you are unsure about anything just see a tech or replace the switch box.

I can't make any guarantees though i wish you luck on this. I've learned a lot just by making mistakes :-)

go to maliburacing.com search wiring diagrams

No it wont work, the 96-97 Isuzu rodeo switches look similar to te 98-02 models but there's a difference.Also used 98 window switches cost more than 96-97 switches.

http//:jlkautoparts.com

Check your relays. See what happens when you jump power to the 87 post of the relays for each component. Worst case scenario, you did something when you changed the battery which fried the body control module.

i have my own repair and metal shop so i can ,but you would be better off google search and you can find alot of companies selling them on internet. When i feel the one i am trying to repair is to much ,i just order it on internet. they range fromm $55.00 to $ 200.00 depending on where you look. Just remember there is a passenger and a driver side and NO you cant swap them. I usually recommend junk yards but in this case your better off getting a new one.

you need to check the fuse box or need a new window kit

Take to automotive glass shop. That's what those people do.

First off make sure you are correct on the motor not working.Most times if the window does not move the motor is the problem.Ocassionaly a window switch will wear out. Motor removal.Go to the parts store and ask for a door panel pry bar.Most panels are fastened to the door with plastic inserts along the bottom,and a couple on each end going up the panel. (ask for some new door panel inserts at the parts store as some will need to be replaced).There should be 2 retaining screws in the inner most part of the door arm rest forward and back. Possibly one in between the door arm rest and panel.With the door panel free of any resistance (you will have the wires connected between the window motor and switch still) Graps the bottom of the door panel with one hand ,pull bottom of door panel away from door.You might feel resistance at this position.With the other hand bump bottom of door panel upward.May take a few bumps to free the clips at the top of door panel and you will probably need to wiggle the door panel somewhat to totally free it from the door.Now you should have access to the motor for the window.If the window is in the down position and you cannot access the motor,look for a metal "arm" that connects to the window from the motor area. Remove this clip,free the arm and move the window up to the closed postioin and secure it in place. By looking at the new motor you have,you will see what screws to remove to release the old motor and remove. Installing is in exact reverse order.Make sure you reatach the "arm" to the window.Take your time and if you run into a snag,Call the parts store and a person there should be able to walk you through the snag.Good luck!!

If your window is manual, remove the crank handle. If electric, carefully remove the switch panel and disconnect the electrical connector(s). Remove the interior trim panel, and then carefully remove the plastic insulation sheet from the door.

Look through the holes in the door sheet metal. At the bottom of the window glass, you should see the metal support for the glass. There will be two large hex-head bolts threaded into either yellow or orange plastic that hold the glass to its support brackett. Using the normal window controls, move the window up or down until the bolts line up with appropriate access holes in the sheet metal, and then unscrew them with a 5/8" socket and extension (you shouldn't have to use a ratchet, as the bolts aren't that tight.) When the bolts are removed, remove the plastic inserts that go through the matching holes in the glass. I recommend using a long pair of hemostats for this. Also, you may have to work your hand around behind the glass to push the inserts out. After they are removed, you should be able to lift the glass out of the door.

Installation is the reverse.

it is rite behind the speaker take the door panel off, black rectangular rubber piece on behind door panel.

the fuse is in instrument fuse box remove the panel under the radio on the right side of the center console. Most likely the problem is not the fuse if other wqindows work as it's one fuse for all The switch in the console is most likely not making contact.(Very common problem) or the motor itself

The breaker is self resetting.

They were optional

it's been a while but I'm pretty sure you pop the door panel off, the motor should be in a assembly and with wire disconnect. there might be 3 screws actually holding it on - but the problem on my 92 and 94 Driver side is the same - HOW DO WE, cut replace the 3 holding bolts/screws which must be 100& fixed in line with the FRAMED structure of the door, from the safety-engineering point, as well as alined for long term mechanical integrity/strength for lifetime of the door.

So as to what I have found on the www - no answer and pictures - so, I say, "Do not START" ordering NEW MOTOR before verifying it is the problem (Connect to another 12V power with ground on vehicle itself for best DC bidirectional operation of the Windows-Up Windows-Down action wanted by driver.) after verifying the fuses are OK and the controlling switch for the window is also OK (New ones are now less the $25, so having a spare is also good, as originals do not last the lifetime of the Aerostar.

I have now 2 Aerostars with same problems...

It depends on what part you "took off". If the motor is still attached, and if the motor itself works ( in other words, if the problem is in the switch, not the motor) you can touch wires to a car battery and then directly to the motor leads. If the motor on the window doesn't work, the motor is probably bad. You can order a new one online (usually around 60-70 bucks)

If you still need the window to go up (and the motor is bad) you might want to disconnect that motor and manually feed the line back that holds the window up. That should hold it up. Or just wedge something in there to hold it.

same as the 1996 Plymouth grand voyager....behind the center console....it has been suggested that to replace the fuse it is best left to the "experts" at Chrysler.

Must replace window regulator


http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-motor-regulator

Chances are, your window came off the track because the regulator is worn out. Most GM cars and trucks have window regulators that are riveted to the inner door panel. To fix it yourself you'll need a Drill with a 1/4 inch bit (or close in size), a hammer, a nail punch or small screwdriver), a Phillips head and flathead screwdriver, and a set of sockets and a ratchet or a wrench set. You'll need to remove the interior door panel and see if the track on the bottom of the glass still has both of the plastic sliders on it. The regulator looks like a big pair of scissors with a small electric motor attached to it. On the ends of each arm are the sliders. If one has fallen out it can be a real pain to keep the window straight. If you want to tackle the job yourself, you'll need to disconnect the wiring harness connected to the window switches and door mirror switches to fully remove the interior trim panel. Next you may find a sheet of plastic that acts as your cars insulation. You will want to carefully remove this because it should be put back on later. There is a strong adhesive holding it on, so if you don't get it off right away, park the car in a sunny spot and let the sun soften it up for an hour or so. once you have that off you can see what your working with. You will need to knock out the centers of the rivets holding the regulator in place. They can be kind of stubborn on some cars, so don't be afraid to give it a few good whacks as long as the window is not in danger if being hit by your swing if you miss. There are usually three or four in the center of the door, and another two toward the left of those if you're working on the driver's side of the car, the opposite side if on the passenger side. Once the centers are knocked out, You will need to drill out the rivets. Be sure you don't drill out the metal on the door panel. Before you drill out the last two you may ant to have someone hold the window glass so the whole thing doesn't drop into the door and break. It may also take some work to get the regulator and glass separated. I have found that its usually best to do the removal with the wondow about halfway down, so you can make the shifts and adjustments to get them apart. Once all the rivets are out and the glass separated, gently lower the glass down so you can remove the rubber trim from the bottom of the window opening and them remove the glass from the door. the regulator will need to be plugged back to the switch and push the button to put the window down. this will make the regulator "flatten" the regulator to its mostnarrow position so you can get it out of the spaces in the door's panel. Once you get that out, just work your way backwards to get it all back to gether. You will need to get yourself a few nuts and bolts that are short enough to fit inside the door trim panel unless you know anyone with a gun big enough to put rivets back in there. And it's not a bad idea to get a locking washer for each of the nuts and bolts. Just test the regulator before putting the panel backon to be sure the bolts aren't hitting the arms, its a good idea to bolt them from the inside and nut the side toward the trim panel to lower the risk of this happening.

As for paying a mechanic to do it, The part alone can be up around $100, most mechanics charge right around 50-60 dollars an hour for labor, and its about a 1-2 hour job(closer to one hour) So you can expect between a $150 - 250 bill.

You will need to raise the drivers side window all the way up and then hold the button in the up position for about 20 seconds, that should do it.

There is a styro-foam sound deadening piece in the door It measures about 6in tall and 24 in long . the one on my driverside door came loose inside and would stop the window 1/2 down.

STEP 1) 3 screws in bottom of door, 2 more in the handle. to remove the inner door skin.

STEP 2) Unbolt inner door skin from door.

STEP 3) Either RE GLUE the styro to the door or remove it completely ( Recommend that you reglue it.

reverse the process and DONE .