Electric Windows

it is possible on the 1995 Ford Explorer that a burned out fuse will cause the power windows to stop working. Check the power window relay in the engine compartment relay bank near the battery or the power window fuse in the fuse panel on the driver's side of the interior.

When you remove the interior door panel (the only tricky part is the two screws in the bottom of the door pull hand hole; they have a little plastic cap covering them so you don't see them unless you know they are there) you will see several 10mm bolts holding the metal inside liner to the frame. With the window full up, you can put a wedge in the chanel and remove the two clamps that connect the cable to the window. After removing these clamps you can remove the bolts holding the metal liner to the frame and remove the metal liner with the regulator and motor attached to it. The regulator (cable) is held on place with bolts at the top and bottom of each arm and must be replaced as an assembly. The motor and gearbox can be reused and you will see the 3 torx bolts that hold them to the left arm. Not a difficult job 2hours start to finish but the cable assembly cost about 175.00. Good luck!!

I just did a 2002 s80 and the four rivets that hold the door handle have to come out because their is a rivet behind it holding the regulator. It's not a fun job but it can be done.The speaker has to come out as well in order to lock the glass in. I don't know where your from but if you leave a way to call you i could explain any questions you have(I replace glass for a living). You are going to need to reset the regulator motor for the auto up.

the back

--ANSWER-- Since they are two completely different circuits, check the fuses in fuse box and in the power distribution box located under the hood. It could also be a broblem with the wire harness. (Hope not, those are tricky)

my car has the same problem only with the passenger side window.....for me it was simply missing a plastic piece that fell off and i lost it try opening the panel and compair it to your passenger side and make sure it is all connected the same way

hardest part is getting the window to line up on the tracks after installation dont be scared. i am not that mechanical and did it in less than 2 hours try autozone for online instructions they were very good

I've had my passenger power window motor go out twice on my 2002 Cavalier and trust me, it's harder to put the motor in than one would think. I took it to the local glass company and they installed it for about $70. Not a bad price to get it done right.

Rear windows a know to have this fault, They are cable driven and what happens is the the cable frays and twists on the cable drive drum, you can repair them if you have a good workshop and the time, generally by now you will have tried to get the window back up and down so my guess is that it will be a real birds nest inside with bits of broken plastic. but is cheaper to get a new window drive unit from your dealer they are one of the cheaper after market parts and it will last.

I have a 93 Bighorn electric windows and found the fault was contacts in the drivers control panel.This can be carefully prized up out of the door unplugged the taken apart (I did it on the kitchen table where nothing can get lost) by carefully removing the screws clean all the little rocker contacts and the main contacts on the panel which carry the power to everywhere else.Re assemble and all works fine again.NOTE take care with the on off button it has a small spring which will come out if care is not taken although the windows will work fine without the lock button working

remove the door handle, then the interior door panel. Get the window up and down switch and then begin testing it to see if you are getting current to the switch, and from the switch to the electric motor that drives the window up and down. If you can bypass the switch and jump 12 volts past the switch, and the morot works and the window moves, then it's the switch. If you bypass the switch and the motor does not operate the window, then the motor is probably bad. More than likey it is the switch........but these are ways to tell. You will need a multimeter to check voltage levels and a jumper wire to bypass the switch. You should buy a door panel removal tool too. It will save you money before you bust the door panel trying to pull it off. It slips behind the door panel and pops the plastic screws that hold the door panel in place. And mkae sure you look all around the door panel for hidden screws. Designers spend hours trying to hide them from sight.

No - usually one fuse controls all the windows Could ba a bad master switch (perhaps lockout button) or individual problems with each window

73 nova is the only nova were the back window rolls down

Have you checked the fuses?

Check the position of the rear window windshield wiper. If it is out of place, it deactivates the window's operation.

Next step, the motor is frozen. Sometimes tapping on it will reactivate it or look for some descriptions in a service bulletin giving service cues. The motor is still probably good, although a dealer will undoubtedlt suggest replacing it. To get at the motor, you need to remove the rear panel - not that difficult a job. Look online - there are great descriptions on how to do this.

Locate fuse. Remove old fuse with appropriate tool in necessary. Replace with new fuse of similar size and rating.

Remove the speaker grill. There is a single screw. Take that off and the panel can be removed.

remove the handle screws cover and remove the screws. Remove the opening door handle screws. there are two of those. You will be able to see then if you look behind the handle on the black cover.

My 1967-1987 Haynes book(available at parts store)has them in back of book.If yours is newer,should be in that book to.

the fuse is in the dash behind the coin department.it's located on the driver's side. I removed this and my owner's manual; shows me the fuse panel layout with three Type 3 fuses around the main fuse block. Item 34 is suppose to cover the Power door locks and power windows, 30 AMPS but all I see is the main fuse block and there are no three type 3 fuses around it. there is a blue cover to some kind of relay. Why is my fuse panel not as the owner's manual shows and where is the Power Window fuse now?

I had same problem on my 2000 Nissan Xterra. You probably need to replace the power window switch assembly. I did the same on my car and it works fine now. Go to http://catalog.nissanpartswholesale.com and look for part number O3060-177168 ($89.60).

I'm not sure how far it goes back but there was a recall/service bulletin on my '01 Xterra for the same problem. They replaced all 4 of the assemblies at no charge. Might be worth a call to the local dealership.

This ia actually a pretty common problem. Inside the drivers door jam is a rubber boot. Inside this boot has a mass of wires. For the power windows, locks, door lights, etc. Thru the many years of opening the door and closing the door, the wires break. The fix however is not so easy, you have to take the door panal off, and then the kick panal behind the e-brake out, to access the wires, cut them, splice into them, and heat shrink them. It can be a rather lengthy process.

I had this problem on our 94 Buick wagon. I replaced the window motor and it took care of the problem.

well iam a retard you have take off the door panel to get to the motor but to replace the window switch get a flathead sd and stick it under the front of the switch holder and lift up

i dont think so i tried looking for a way on mine, but i think due to the way the door is made, you cant, unless you cut the glass, which would defeat the purpose....

if your windows stopped working when you disconnected the battery you have to stop by the dealer and reprogram the bodt control module, it loses memory when batt is pulled without using a temp power supply

This job requires a rivet tool and 1/4 inch rivets. remove door trim panel. disconnect electrical connectors. remove the screws from the rear channel guide and remove the guide. support the window half way up. remove the 4 regulator screws with a quarter inch drill bit. slide the regulator out of the channel guides. remove the regulator. replace the new one into the channel guides. use your new rivets to secure it. plug in the electrical connector. replace and tighten the rear channel guides. replace door trim panel.

You should do a BSI reset.

Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off.

Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition.

Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds.

Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.).

Switch on the side lights through the driver's window.

Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality.

Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds.

Remove key open & close door test central locking system.

Start the engine and complete the system's check.

assuming itis the switch and not the motor remove switch n hot wiretillup or use switch out of other side.....