Electric Windows

yes they are. it's a 40 amp fuse

After much searching it was found under the drivers seat. Under the carpet just under the right rail/foot of the driver seat. Under here is the power window circuit breaker and relay as well as the automatic seat control (if your car has one)

If the windows will not open using controls on either the driver or passenger side then most likely you have blown a fuse. The owners handbook will tell you where the fuse panel is and which fuse controls the electric windows.

If it is a fuse,and you replace it, it may blow again indicating a short in the wiring.

If all the windows stopped working at the same time check your fuses. If not it maybe the window regulator and / or motor inside the door panel

Peugeot 406 HDI diesel 01.Pop out plastic screw cover from hand well on door. Remove screw ,requires a multi spline key. Lift out complete unit lifting first from hand well end, then lift unit at front end. Disconnect brown & black wire blocks then slide the red end of large block out this releases the block as there is a groove release on the red slider. All is now will notice there is a base circuit held on with plastic securing lugs. Carefully release and prise each one to release the complete circuit board.One the reverse side you will find 4 switch large green circular rubber toggle pad for electric mirrors.Two single activation switches for left window (white in colour with one grey pin for activation of window up/down) Next a blue rubber pad with two holes & one hole held with retaining plastic pins. Remove this use some industrial or Meths spitits to clean metal contacts.Then clean carbon contacts imbedded in rubber toggle pad. Reassemble making sure to place the blue rubber pad down onto the retaining pins. Then replace base circuit evenly back into switch base. Click home Hey Presto your window operates again. This of course is assuming it's the drivers window has failed.

Check the power window fuses and the relay first. If all of the windows do not work then it is a power problem with the whole window system.

Sounds like a bad master switch unit

If it's the back window washer that's not working, I had the same problem. Seemly the tube that carries the water to the rear window has become detached. How i realised this was that I had refilled the water container and still couldn't understand why the window washer arm was working but no water coming out onto the window. Then my back seat was wet. It was because the water was being pumped when I pressed the back window washer switch. Something made me turn around and you wouldn't believe it. The actual water was coming out of the top of the left back passenger seat belt near the top of the window. I still have to get this fixed. But it might be the answer you are looking for. My back seat has remained dry since realisation of this has prevented me from switching on the rear window washer.

Window is binding in the track. Motor is drawing too much current and circuit breaker is kicking out. When it cools, it resets and tries again. Try soaking the side channels with spray dry teflon lube (available at any home center store). It sprays as a liquid and dries to a dry teflon powder. Once it dries, try closing the window again. It should move easier.

Or, read this article

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/RepairTopics/Windows/ReplaceWindowRegulator.html

remove the door panel screws, the door handle, the armrest bolts behind the plastic plugs, the and use a molding tool to pry the plastic clips from the door, also disconnect the electrical connection. Last note, the motor is riveted in so you'll have to drill them out.

your problem might the hidden screw on the bottom of the door in the carpet. It is in the corner toward the back of the door.

so your window quit working..... just one ....lol... its not funny but I tell you how to do replace the motor for the window. follow these steps... take off the side veiw mirrow cover on the inside ... get a srewdriver and just pop it off,, then take the reflector off .... its a little red square on the back side on the door paneljust pop it off with a screwdriver.. take a Phillips head and take the screw out.get either a body tool or eithe a ...hmm say 2inch very flat cheseland put it in between the door panel and the door start at the botttom... and pry the door panel from the door.. youll be able to tell where it fastened to the door next take out the power window control... and unplug it. do the same with any other connectors ...oh yeah pull the little rubber trim from the top of the door panel that touches the glass...pry the cover off at the door handle.. and take off the plastic lock slider... theres a screw behide the little pane after that pull the panel out and up... as far as the motor and this goes for all the ones that are bad... take the speaker out and un plug get a power drill and use a 5/16 drill bit and drill the rivets out hlding the motor to the door also unbolt the 2- 14 mm bolts holding the winow regualator on the door be care when taking the last bots out ... let the window slide down a little where you can get a socket a 10 I think and unattach the windoe from the window regulator theres one in the front anf one in the back... if you want to get the window out of the way use a strip of duct tape to hold it up til you slide the windoe regualater and motor out the hole where the speaker was. just flaten it and it will come out with a little effort. get a 3/16 drill bit and take the rivets out holding the regualater and the motor.. you can buy a new motor ffom auto zone w/ lifetime warranty.. or anywhere else you buy auto parts .. its 42.50 there... sorry this was so laong .. toybiz

(1)Remove the door trim panel; (2)disconnect the electrical connector for the power mirror (3) where necessary, lower the window for access to the mirror mounting nuts (4)remove the mounting nuts and take the mirror out. - Haynes Ford Ranger Pickups Repair manual

If the whole backglass needs to be replaced the cost will be approx. $250-$325 here's a link to look for a good used one in your area, you can usually get a good used one and have a qualified shop install it for you much cheaper. www.car-part.com

In the Power Window Control Module there is a solid state relay that probably cannot be switched out on it's own. Other than that there is a 30A circuit breaker 15 in the fuse box.

Bad motor - see if you are getting power to it - if so bad motor
Bad switch? Try jumping terminals to see if it will work
Open wire - perhaps in door jamb Try slamming door while holding switch with key on

Autozone's online Repair Guide has a surprisingly extensive collection of wiring diagrams.

Otherwise one of the popular hard-copy manuals like Chiltons & Haynes, but not all them are strong in wiring. Can probably sneak-a-peek at one on the shelf at the auto parts store.

There are other for-fee/pay sources, but I've not used them.

The library - an old-fashioned idea I know, but... Might find the more comprehensive service manuals there.

This is the first thin: you replace if your windows won't roll up or else take forever to roll up---replace the rocker switch panel. This should work on all models (NA,NB & NC) but I'm explaining the NA-NB version.

Tools Needed: Philips Screw Driver

Rocker Arm Switch (approx. $100.00)

1. Remove stick shift knob

2. Remove Cigarette Ashtray tray (NA models) else small ash tray (NB Model)

3. Remove all screws from console (sides, console screws), put in tray

4. Remove console--you've got to twist it back & forth to go over stickshift

5. Flip console upside down, disconnect/remove RockerSwitch

6. Reverse install everything

7. Screw back on stick Shift knob

8. Test Windows

ALWAYS REPLACE THIS FIRST before dicking with replacing motor or regulators.

Pop the door panel off. Remove screws including the one behind the window switch. Then, lift up on the panel. You will see where the window switch plugs in.

It's in the fusebox but you will need the owners manual to find out what slot it's in, other than that you will have to check each fuse in the box to see which one is blown.

Hey Stacy==It isn't the easiest thing to do and you need special tools. I suggeast you take it to the trim shop. GoodluckJoe

The only special tool you need is a trim panel remover tool that you can buy for under $10. See my related link for full instructions on how to do the repair.

dude take it to safelite you ain't gonna figure it out just gonna give your self a headach btw its called a panel poper and its called a door panel nice try though

yea it's a door panel, but the tool is a trim panel remover.

http://www.a1electric.com/grandam.htm <-- this is the original answer. It shows a Grand Am, which is different.

Here's a Grand Prix:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Grand-Prix-Window-Motor/index.html

The problem may not be that the window has come off the track. I have a '98 Chrysler Concorde and the driver's side window wasn't operating correctly so I took the interior door panel off and found that one of the brackets that anchor the window to the track had broken. I tried to repair it with JB Weld but it didn't hold. I'm going to have to buy a new window.

Hi, i have a W reg Renault Megane and recently had to put a new door on. I had to remove the interior from the old door and put it on the new door. To remove the interior from the door you need to remove all the screws (including from behind the speaker cover). Once this is done the door card will not budge. The whole door card is glued on with an incredibly strong adhesive. I used a hacksaw blade to gently remove the glue. The glue is only on the bottom half of the door card. Make sure you are incredibly careful when removing the glue because you need to prise the plastics back slighly to gain access to the glue. Good luck it took me ages. I found after unscrewing all observable screws I still could not prise the door off, a friend pointed out that the door handle (used to close the door not door lever to open it) needed to have the cover removed as there were another two screws under there. I did not find the glue a problem as it was quite worn.

Start by taking off the panel of course. If your lucky enough the rivets have already been drilled out and bolts replace them, if not drill them out. You may see 4 bolts they will be in the first 1/3 of the door like under the wing window, half way down. Loosen those bolts and take the window glass off the track. This may be tricky but can be done by one person. Once the arms(regulators?)are off the tracks prop up the window glass with something, or have someone hold it up. Now you have to work this whole contraption motor/regulator/arms out the larger hole in the door. Yes, it too will come out probably after a few choice cuss words. when you do get it out and ready to take it off the regulator, be careful they say it has 40lbs of pressure in that coil spring, mine had 2 holes in the big gear, in which I put bolts to keep it from moving its full range if it let go. Replace motor and repeat the same steps backwards to install. Oh a good curcuit tester is a big help, if you have to replace the switch too.

You'll probably need to buy a new power window motor, if it's power window, that is.

if it's the swivel piece in the channel,the dealer out here (southern california) it'll cost $12.00. not that expensive for a new one...got the first ten digits of the VIN? guessing it's a front wheel drive.would need to better inform you.. DAve