Electric Windows

This is a guess , but check fuse # 14 - 15 amp - for ACCESORY DELAY RELAY ( power windows , moonroof , Flip windows )

Switches wires or motor. Go to the back and try using the key. Listen while trying to move it up or down. If you hear a whine then the motor is trying but the gear is stripped. Go buy another one if this is so. If it works from outside but but not insde then the switch on the panel is bad or the lock is on or bad. If nothing happens then the fuse is blown or the wiring is bad.

I would urge you not to try this at home. Getting the window track aligned after putting in the regulator is a nightmare. It's worth the $180 or so to just pay someone to do this. If you don't, I garuantee your window will slide right out of the weatherstripping and you'll be pissed when you're all done and put it back together. Test the window's up and down movement numerous times before re-installing the trim panel. Adjust as necessary. It's no big deal and nothing to be afraid of. As I recall, removing the glass is not even necessary! Leave the tracks alone! With the window in the UP position, hold it up while you install the regulator. If working with one hand like this bothers you, take a few minutes to prop the glass up in the door with a piece of wood cut to proper size. When ready to connect the regulator to the glass, use the palm of your hand to maneuver the glass up or down in to position. Not difficult.

You can also check the plug that goes to the master window control inside the front driver side door panel. If that plug comes loose none of the windows will work because they are all wired through that plug for the window lock feature...

If it is a older Crown Victoria,( had to replace a window in 89 grand marq.) you have to take off the door panel to get to the window motor and i believe also there are some springs too, and put it on track. Isn't much of a answer you was looking for but it's a start...

It's the switch because the motor is getting power to go up but not down.

buy a hanes manual which will show u how to remove the panels, the motor sits behind the plastic in the open which is easy to see. remove the bolt that faces you (10mm) i believe and there are two bolts (8mm) on the inside that you can get by feel. once you have it out there is one bolt that holds the cover in place (this cover hides the spool on which the wire ropes run). i havent put mine back yet as i have just pulled it out because the cable broke. be patient with the panel as it is plastic.

I'm pretty sure that's against the law. And you could probably hurt your legs by doing that, especially if you get into an accident.

remove the case for the switches then use a volt meter to see if you have power at the switch...then if you have power at the switch you must check the motor for operability....you can use toy car battery charger or some thing that will give power to the motor directly to see if will work that way...if the motor won't spin from direct power then it is no good...plus keep it simple look for a bad fuse...which you probabley already did...good luck

Its in the engine compartment fuse box

Assuming you can still hear the window motor running when you attempt to roll up the window, the most likely cause is that that plastic track that the motor pushes and pulls the window with has cracked and broken. This has happened on my Jeep twice. Remove the door panel and check to see if this is the problem. Replacements are pretty easy to find.

Two fuse locations. One under hood next to battery. One under carpet passenger foot area.

Remove the door panel. There will be 3 dimples or indented places on the framework. They will need to be drilled out to 3/4 of an inch. This will allow you access to the bolts securing the motor in place. It is smooth sailing from there.

press all windows buttons down at once for 5 sec and then pull up again the buttons for 5 sec.its the one i know

in the drivers side door usually above the speaker mine was brown it looks like a whale with wings

check in the rightside kick panel on the passenger's side. I AM NOT CERTAIN BUT IT IS THERE ON THE 84 L. T. C.

window motor needs replaced , it is behind the door panel

You could also check your fuses because i just had a similar problem. i couldn't roll my power windows down and it was a blown fuse.

This might get you started...

http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/power_window.htm

Installing power windows in your car is a good option for those wh does not want to move at higher end series. Installing only front windows with power windows will cost around Rs 5500-6000 for a better company kit , however if all the four windows are loaded it costs around 10,000 grands. Also there is a one year warranty on this option from the best manufacturers of power windows

I just repaired mine with JB Weld. How I did it? 1st take the lift gate window off and put it on a flat surface. Next use a high speed drill with a wire wheel to take off all of the old epoxy from the area immediately around where the hinge connects to the window and the hinge itself. You will see 6 filled in holes in the hinge....use a drill to drill out the old epoxy. This will give more surface area for the JB Weld to adhere to. Mix the JB Weld (Original JB Weld...not JB Quick) and apply a coat to the window and to the hinge. Set the hinge into the area where it broke from. Use some nylon thread to strengthen the JB Weld...by running 4 inch piece across the JB Weld. Let the JB Weld set for 24 hours atleast! Put the lift gate back on your vehicle. I did this about a week ago....so far so good! Much better than spending a $1000 to replace it!!!! If you have questions email me at spkynav@gmail.com and I will do my best to help. It looks like quite a few of us are having this problem.

It is a black box type fuse in the fuse box under the drivers side dashboard. Pull it out and it will have 5 connector pins coming out of it. Cost for a replacement is between $10 to $30 depending where you go.

back of fuce box under drivers side its a pain too get too

After you removed the interior door trim, you will need to drill the rivets that hold the motor in place. Or else, you can do the job with a hammer and chisel if you wish to. After this is accomplished, you just need four 1/4 inch bolts (1 inch long is OK), four flat washers and four self locking nuts(the one with the nylon sleeve in it). You mount the motor placing the bolts from the inside (making sure the bolt heads won't interfere with the travel of the window crank), and finishing with the washers and nut from the outside. Now you have a new motor that can be dismounted much faster if the you ever need it again.

if urs is like mine, then it needs a new regulator. it goes down (by the button and on its own) but wont go back up. do what i did and wedge some stuff in the sides of the windows and just tell people not to put it down. or, get a haynes manual and buy a regulator and replace it. i heard its easy, but i still have stuff wedged in my window....

The rear ones are pretty easy. Get a new regulator (minus motor) on Ebay. Next you will need a few metric tools. Using a screwdriver pry off the top of the inside door handle. You should see a couple of holes with a large Philips screw at the bottom of them, take these out. Next remove the speaker grille and the speaker and it's mounting bracket ( if it has one ). Next remove the small screws around the outside of the door liner with a hex wrench. Unscrew the door lock button ( black on top of door liner ). You should now be able to use the handle and pull off the door liner. The switch can now be unplugged from it's mounting.Remove the plastic/foam liner sheet.Look inside the door and you will see a contraption that looks like a load of bowden cables, attached to this is the motor, slide the wiring plug off the motor.Move the window to a position where you can loosen the bolts on the window clamp. Next look for two bolts that should be somewhere toward the middle of the door, one above the other a few inches apart. The holes which these bolts go through are slotted. Loosen these bolts. Slide the window out of its clamp. Grasp the runner that window clamp slides up and down on and move it upward so that the bolt heads go through the widest part of the hols. You should then be able to turn the assembly sideways and slip it out of the opening. Put your old motor on the new regulator and reassemble. Don't tighten up the window clamp initially, run it up and down so as to align the window in the frame then clamp it. Try the window again for smooth operation, if it doesn't run up and down smoothly then reposition the window in its clamp until the window does run smoothly. Hope this helps.

1. Remove ash tray, then remove 2 screws holding ashtray body in. 2. Push switch panel to rear and lift on the front to remove switch panel. 3. Unplug switches to completeley remove switch panel. 4. With a screw driver depress the metal clip at each end of switch to remove the individual switch from the panel. 5. You then replace or repair the switch. The switch can be disasembled and repaired. Be careful not to lose the 2 ball bearings inside the switch. Remove the 2 brass rocker plates and burnish the contacts. Then reassemble. Much better than spending 75.00 for new switch assembly. 6. reassemble in reverse order. You do not need to remove the ashtray as the window switches are located on the wood insert around the shifter. Remove the plastic trim ring from around the shifter. Then carefully lift the wood trim surround that holds the switches. Becareful not to snap the plastic clips that hold the switches in place