Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

Remove all of thegas you can as it is heavy. TAke the straps loose and lower it a bit so you can get the hoses and electrical connections undone. Then lower it the rest of the way.

No, the Ford Bronco's vehicle body classification code lists it as a utility, which makes it an SUV. However, it as aggressive and powerful a platform ever made in it's class, which makes it easily mistaken as a truck.

yes; b4 78 the whole top came off after 78 just the rear top came off.

It will mostly fit. The broncos tailgate is wider, so there will be a slight gap. You will need ALL of the hardware that holds the f150 tailgate on and need to due some minor fab work but with very little work it will go on.

you might have a bare spot or some arcing going on somewhere. I would suggest inspecting your wiring to make sure nothing is rubbing or bare. It's a pain in the but to go through all of it, but worth it. Your problem is with what is called the "PSOM" or the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer module. I have a TSB from Ford and the Alldatadiy.com site showing your very concern as stemming from the PSOM. It is a board behind your cluster panel. Contact your local Speedo and Tach shop for info on a rebuilt. In the mean time you will need to get the calibration code for your PSOM. On your dash cluster push and hold the left button (I believe it is the Select button) and turn the ignition to the on position. You do not need to start the car. the speedometer will start a self check by the needle going to the right. Let go of the button. When the needle returns to 0 push the lt button again and in the odometer area a code will show like (925cal) or something specific to your truck. The new PSOM will need to be programmed by the Speedo/Tach guys with this cal # and the current odometer reading. Either the shop can do the whole job for you or you can remove part yourself if you know how. Hope this helps.

above right side halfshaft input into trans. can only be seen under neath the car.

i HAVE AN 88 JAG AND THE ONLY WAY I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE TANK WAS TO TAKE THE FUEL LINE OFF FROM BOTTOM OF THE VEHICLE BY REMOVING 2 CLIPS FROM THE FUEL HOSES COMING FROM THE TANK AND PULLING THE HOSE A LOOSE

210hp 345 torque

The Denver Broncos play their home games at Mile High Stadium (with Invesco Field).

The NFL's official stance is that it is 'Invesco Field at Mile High Stadium' but that phrasing will result in unpleasant experiences if said at the actual stadium surrounded by Bronco fans.

yes it is on the top part .. one bolt holds it in very center top you have to reach over to feel it

The chindeseems lost in rotor grooves, which is probably affecting the cornerstones. Replace all, and grease with malnigrain fir further ease of contraction. Hope this helps. Dennis

On the Eddie Bauer it should be the 4.0 L SOHC Check your VIN # - if the 8th "character" is an E it is the SOHC engine , if it is an X it would be the 4.0 L OHV engine.

300

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A 1995 Ford Bronco , 5.8 / 351 cubic inch V8 has ( 210 horsepower ) from the

factory

Usually one removes the bed of the truck to work on anything with in the fuel tank. Like replacing the fuel pump.

re: you have to have a tool av. @ any part store fuel line disconect tools they slip in the fuel line on top of the tank you get a whole fuelpump assy. already together when you buy the pump so i have found it is just as easy to cut the white plastic just past the end of the lines on top of the tank then use the disconect tool to take the short pice of the plastic out the way the pump assy. is made not much room then its just a big snapring to get the pump assy. out when going back together grease the big o ring it will make it easer to push the pump assy. back in

Make sure you are putting the dipstick in all the way. It could be that your oil level is so low that it is not yet showing on the dipstick.

It doesn't have one.

Typically 2.73 but it depends on if the original owner had another gear ratio put in during the manufacturing

no. 31 max

8.75R16.5 LT Read it right off my tires, on _my_ 1982 Chevy G30. The"LT" is for "light truck" and may be optional. R is "Radial", which were on it when I bought it -- and I've used them ever since. The rims or wheels are 8 lug, standard for 1-ton load rating. (G30 = 1 ton) These are also 16.5" in diameter. CiP

pull the wires, get a spark plug socket and a 4" extension, you will have to play around with using the extension on some and not on others

Behind the fuse panel cover directly under the steering column. Panel is held in place by 4 black thumb turn fasteners. Fuse panel is on left. Ford flaser is generally green.

If you are reffering to the end that connects to the brake system(pad, rotor, caliper) then it is almost always contected to the pad. Some are permanently molded into a pad, thus you would need to buy a new pad and contect the lead wire to that pad, or there is usually a place on the pad itself (including the steel backing plate that hold the pad material) where the wear sensor clips into. -Brake Engineer

The vehicle speed sensor is located on the top center of the rear axle.

If you mean the ignition switch- it is located on the steering column under the dash, you can remove the bolts holding the steering column in place and lower it. the switch is on top of the column and easy to get to with it lowered. unplug switch remove nuts, make note of where the actuator rod goes, it must fit into the switch at the proper location, if you haven't moved the lock cylinder you should be fine. after putting rod into little groove in the switch put it back onto column and tighten nuts. reattach plug and secure steering column. it would be good to get a repair manual from NAPA or another store it helps.

I think you mean the pump Relay,not (coil) it is under the hood Drivers side well in Fuse box its Like 1" cube.