Ford E-150 Van

My 1992 E-150 holds 16 ozs of freon

but the max on most Ford vans is 24 ozs

Your correct tire pressure will vary based on the type of van, type of tires, road conditions and load in your van. The best place to start is on the label inside the driver's side door. It will list a GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) for your front and rear axle, along with the proper tire size and pressure for each axle.

Your ideal tire pressure is not the same as the maximum tire pressure, and simply filling the tires to maximum pressure can increase your risk of accident on the road. This is especially risky in large passenger vans, as their high ride height puts them at higher risk for rollover.

Some vans have different recommended pressure for the front and rear axle. You may also need to vary your pressure based on the load you're carrying. With an empty back, you may have trouble getting adequate traction if you keep the pressure at the highest recommended. On the other hand with a fully loaded van you will really need that extra pressure to keep the tires from sagging and wearing thin.

The carburetor diagram for a 1983 E-150 can be found in the service manual. The manual can be purchased through most auto parts.

2007 Honda Accord OBD 2 port is under driver side dash next to kick panel

on a 5.0 you need to remove air cleaner housing,fan shroud,fan, belt,fan belt housing ,bottom & top hose ,small hose to pump and thermostat housing L shape,remove all bolts to pump ,mostly all bracket bolts to right side of you to slip the water pump housing pin underneath it ,put a new thermostat and gasket while you are at it !!!

No you do not.

Did you look in your fuse panel, or on the back of the cover to fidn one marked wipers? If it has electrical current going to it, then there has to be a fuse or a fusable link in the wiring system.

diagram for replacing cable to door handle latch 1992 for econoline van

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagram ) can be viewed online

In order to reset the fuel pump for a Ford E-150, you first need to locate the fuel pump shut-off switch. The fuel pump shut-off switch in a Ford E-150 should be located on the vanâ??s passenger side wall, right inside the door. Once you have found the switch, depress it. Once you press the button, the fuel pump should reset.

1/2 inch. that's it!

Ok I will anser it myself the blower motor relay is located in the power distribution module (under hood fuse pannel) it is the front passenger relay the one on the drivers side is the horn (I called my local ford dealer on monday to find out)

If you still have the backing plate available you can use it RTV silicone adhesive to mount the glass to the backing plate. If you have not yet purchased the mirror glass we do have them available for $19.99 shipped and they include adhesive mounting tabs designed specifically for mounting glass to the backing plate. Thanks Jack

the low side suction port is under the cowl panel, right under the passenger wiper. Turn on the A/C to max cool with the rear air on high. Connect the charging hose to the low side port and charge to the recommended pressure, usually marked on the gauge used from the auto parts store. It is recommended to add the fluorescent dye as well so you can locate any leak if there is one.

Buy a new hinge from the dealership it should cost about 20 - 25 dollars. you will get the upper and lower hinge for either the driver or passenger door. there are only four bolts holding each hinge on . use a marker to mark where the old hinge was then take off the old one. you can do this with the door being ajar but i am told that it is easier with the front fender off. it will probablly take two people to do this. I would also suggest that you purchase the haynes manual for the car they are very useful.

Check out this site: www.twinturbo.net There you will find all the info you need and then some. From that site, there is a link to twinturboz's of Dallas. You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos.

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Answer 2:

Also DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DRILL YOUR INTAKE. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Your best bet is to Take the intake off by which it only took me about 30 minutes,

Remoe the coil pack plugs and injector plugs, TPS sensor plug and vac hoses on that black air crossover, IACV plug and whatever the other plug is next to it. Then remove the temp plug and temp plug next to it as well. Man thing is to allow the harness to be free from the intake

There's a crossover hose for the water and just cut that if it's as hard as a rock. take the plastic intake vac hoses off, take the center bolts off the intake, there are two bolts per side on the intake in the middle, remove those.

on the driver side back side of the intake there's a large 5/8th's hose that will stump you every time near the IACV, remove that however you can and repeat on the passenger side

THE INJECCTOR PLUG MIGHT HAVE METAL CLIPS SO REMOVE THOSE FIRST BEFORE LIFTING THE PLUG OUT.

There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom where the two metal rods connect the intake towards the front bottom side of the intake(Dont know that piece yet) remove those.

the intake should come off.

NOW there's two bolts per injector holding the injector down. I know from experience that they will be locked into place but can easliy be removed....

Get some vice grips and lock it down on the Philips head of the screw(Just enough to lock it down firmly, not he-man tight. and give it a little twist(No this will not ruin your bolt nor prevent you from install it back, this is the way I did it to prevent me from stripping the head it self.)

Repeat that for the other side of that injector and that's it, you should be able to pull it up.(Repeat this step for the other 5)

From there you should be able to see the other bolts that keep the fuel rail in place so you handle that.

The injectors are hard as hell to remove so be ready to use some muscle a little bit. I just pryed in different sections to remove them because it didn't matter if the the plastic was broke or not because they were all bad pretty much.

after remove the old beat down injectors, have a bit of wd40 or silky gas solution because you will be using that to lube up the holes to place the new injectors in.

BE SURE TO CLEAN THE HOLES FIRST.

Now grab a q-tip or your finger whatever and dip it into the wd40(I prefer) and just run your fingers around the lower and upper hole of that injector port and gentle place the injector in. Then go ahead and push down simoltanuously on each side of the injector to evenly place it down. Now go ahead and place that cap and the two bolts on it which will finish it down. Tighten it down little by little on each side.

Repeat that last step for the rest of them and them re-install and you have yourself a running car. Be sure all of your hoses are placed back.

TIP: i went ahead and remove that pointless black piping for the fuel and ran an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to the inlet and a hose back to the return line. That black piece is just used for fuel dampening and regulating which I find that is ok but pointless.

Besides the fuel was dampened and then it was regulated... CRAZY!!!! So in place where the inlet side goes, just install a jdm adjustable regulator and the outlet just straight hose it back to the return hose and leave it at that.

From that air crossover piping on the intake, just cap the vac ports off. I'm running 93 in mine as that's what the car calls for so don't go believing cheap gas it what is needs. The timing is so far advanced and your coils are good. If you have to use cheap gas, back off your CAS a bit

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When inserting the injectors into place, DO NOT use WD40. Please use either grease or vaseline. Just dabb it on all over the rubber seals.

Using WD40 could work, but unfortunately you will still run the risk of pinching the lower seal when installing the injectors. This will cause that cylinder to flood up when the engine gets turned on. You would then have to pull everything back out and replace the lower seal on the injector.

Good answer though.

dream300zx@gmail.com

It not an expensive part.. cheap enough to replace if you suspect a problem. But if you must check it, you can hook it up to a 12V battery and get any off the shelf pressure tester.

follow the spark plug wires from the point where they go to the spark plug in the block up to the top of the engine and they will all meet on top of the distributor cap. ON THE VAN, YOU CAN VIEW IT BY REMOVING THE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY, COMPLETELY, HOSES AND ALL BRACKETS. JOEDI

Behind the dashboard, usually on the passenger side. Look in the engine compartment for the hoses that go from the engine through the firewall. Those are generally the heater hoses, which go to the heater core.

First disconect the cable fron the battery, then make sure you have the part to replace it. Next remove the housing above and take off the bolts. Then you can replace with the new one and reconnect the battery cables. Test to see if it is connected properly.

catalytic converters are located near the muffler.very difficult to replace

Remove the inside door panel to observe what is broken/disconnected

To remove pop off the top plastic cover. Pop off the door handle and power window covers. Next you will need to remove 4 screws. One at the top of the door that was behind the plastic part, one at the lower corner of the door behind a little round screw cover, and the last 2 are holding the door pull to the door.

Now you will need to slide the panel straight up it has to go up to get it off.

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The most common failure is a fitting on the latch cable that engages with the latch, The fitting is made of plastic and it dry-rots and crumbles. It looks sorta like a cigarette holder with a groove around it, and it holds the cable stationary while a small ball on the end of the cable actuates the latch itself. There's an aftermarket product made that will work but it's a pita to replace. Try to locate a new latch cable. Either that or buy the entire latch assembly, which I'm pretty sure is a dealer-only part.

The fuel pump access cover is under the back seat in the forenza. Take out the seat and you will see a round access plate that will be tough to remove, believe me. Once you get the cover off it will expose the top of the fuel pump. Make sure your battery is disconnected at the positive lead. Disconnect the electrical connector on the top-there are some little squeeze clip things as I recall, it has been a while since I did one. There are 2 or 3 rubber hoses (that may have pressurized gasoline in them so no sparks or flames close by) that have to be taken off and they have squeeze clips on them so be patient and work the hoses off. Finally, after everything is disconnected, you have a band that runs around the top of the pump and tank opening that has to be loosened. Once you get this off, the pump will remove straight up and out. Put the new one back in by reversing these directions. Make sure all connections on hoses are tight or you can have gasoline spewing under your car when pump comes on-check it before you put the seat and cover back on. Seal the cover well to prevent water getting into car. Good luck!

Under the vehicle, rear. Look where you fill it up at the tank nozzel. The tank is mounted within a few feet of this location.