0
Ford Windstar GL
The Windstar GL was a first generation Windstar model which was produced by Ford Motor Company. Some of the standard features of this car are dual airbags and anti-lock brakes.
1,070 Questions
Where is the transmission control unit on a 2002 vw passat?
TCU is located under the carpet ( Passenger ) Right side Att . Alejandro Miller githo7.com . I need one, please message me at my e-mail if you have a transmission control unit.
How can you tell by troubleshooting if your problem is the fuel pump?
pressure test line comming from fuel tank,one of two ways,1.disconect line from fuel filter on side where fuel line connects from fuel tank,if pressure 26psi to 35psi reconnect line to filter and check your line on other side of filter if pressure holds your fuel pump and fuel filter are ok,the other way is to disconnect inlet line from tank to fuel regulator and check your fuel pressure,the only thing with this method is if your fuel filter is clogging or clogged you will not get an accurate fuel psi.you can also check your fuel regulator,you fuses,or your relays to anything that has to do with your,depending on what type of car you have
What could cause a grinding or squealing noise from a car?
I had an extrememly loud grinding soun under my hood one day when my car ran hot i new it was my water pump and i tried to get home and the car stalled out and would no longer start because it shredded the timing belt. I would have someone look at the water pump and the alternator.
AnswerRemove the fan belt and start the engine to eliminate alt,water pump. Can do the same for power steering to eliminate the pump. If you still have the noise, the noise is normally engine or trany. AnswerIf it's a grinding noise it can also be one of the bearings in your wheels. Don't take apart your engine just yet. :) AnswerI had this grinding or whirring noise when driving my 86 crx Honda hf model. The solution was replacing the berring in the front wheel hub. Upon inspection the hub itself did not need replacing only the berring. It now is free of the noise. AnswerI have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier and I also replaced the wheel hub bearing assembly. YOU CANNOT take the bearing out of the hub, it is an entire assembly.http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info
i agree check the bearings first... you can do this your self by jacking up the front of the car so the tires a off the ground so you can move them. Once the tires are off the ground you grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if it has play in it ( try to move the tire top to bottom ) if you have play then you need to service your wheel barings or replace them
-your brakes can also make grinding or squealing noises but both at once would not be likely
ANSWER
I had mine just like that. and I remove the 2 belts, remove the water pump and put a new one and you can save the old coolant as long as you did not put it to the dirty pale. It's going to run just like normal again.
Where is the door ajar sensor on a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu?
It is built into the Right Body Function Control Module. There is no sensor or "plunger" located on the door. If you are getting a door ajar light on the dash and the interior light is coming on when you stop for a redlight/stopsign, and you get the door ajar dinging after the key is removed from the ignition, here is the solution. First, remove the 40 amp Maxifuse from under the hood labeled Right Electrical Center (includes Int. lmps, Daytime Running Lamps, Fog lamps, Body Function Control Module and Radio). This will prevent the interior lights from draining the battery. Then purchase a new Body Function Control Module. The old unit should be located under the dashboard on the Passenger Side of the car. You can google the part name to get a picture of it.
Introduction to Brakes Basics for a Ford Windstar?
See "Related Questions" below for more
- Front brakes are disc brakes - a caliper that pushed on 2 brake pads squeezing the bejeebers outta the 'rotor'
- Brake pad material - organic, metallic, semi-metallic & ceramic. $20-70
My choice is to the ceramic - primarily due to long life and no brake dust on the wheels! Well worth the few extra $$ - Rotors - the large disc that mounts to the hub with the lugnuts sticking out of it, and the pads press against.
Rotors can be re-surfaced to remove grooves and imperfections that occur through normal usage. This typically costs $15-20 per rotor.
There's a big IF to this though: the rotor has to have enough metal left to be thick enough to have some ground away, and still be safe from collapsing. The parts store will measure the old rotor and determine if they can re-surfaced/machined.
New Rotors - cost anywhere from $20-80 or so. Cheaper rotors will not last as long, don't dissipate heat as well as the top-of-the-line rotors, and well may 'warp' after only a year or two. - Windstar rear brakes are of the drum-type* - 2 "shoes" being pushed outwards onto the Inside sides of the brake drum.
Not the easiest of repair jobs - not hard, just sometimes a bear dealing getting the old drum off and working with the springs and remembering how they hook up.
Drums also can be machined/ re-surfaced. Again, the shop will measure and advise if it can be done safely.
** I've heard rumors of some Windstars having the much better rear disc brakes. I haven't seen them (don't even have them on my "fully-equipped" 2001 SEL), or have links to more info - sorry. - Brake Pictures & diagrams - there are online sources of picture from places like Autozone.com's Repair Guide.
Here's my advice: if you're taking on the brake jobs, it is likely you're going to be handling other repairs on your Windstar.
With that in mind: buy a good Chiltons or Haynes repair/service manual. One of the best $20 investments you'll make in keeping your Windstar happy and healthy. - When to change the brakes -
- Inspection - front brake pads are the easiest to get a look at just behind the wheel. With a flashlight and turning the wheels to each extreme, you should be able to see how much brake pad material is left.
- GRINDING! - This means you've gone too long and the brake material is gone so the brakes are the dreaded metal-on-metal.
With no brake pad/shoe left, the brakes are NOT very good at stopping your vehicle.
This is also gouging the rotor or drum metals and guaranteeing your rotor / drum is going to have to be replaced - no chance for have them reconditioned. - Screeching - whining sounds - could be caused by the wear indicator - a thin piece of metal that will hit the rotor when the pads are worn down and will soon be needing replacing.
- Hard pedal - having to press the pedal really hard to get the brakes to slow the vehicle down.
One cause is that the braking surfaces - pads/shoes/rotors - are glazed. Although glazing is great on doughnuts, it's a very bad thing on brakes. Glazed surfaces severely compromise the friction needed for brakes to work. This can happen even when there is a lot of brake pad / shoe material left.
Likely to have to replace pads/shoes and resurface the rotor/drum - Vibrating/pulsating brake pedal - different from the rapid pulsations that you feel when the ABSsystem is active in wet or icy conditions.
Pulsating, or the pedal moving up-n-down, varies with vehicle speed - The "moving up and down" is then likely to be caused by unevenly worn rotors/pads.
This is not UNcommon as it gets closer to time for a brake job, and tells you the rotor is warping. The brakes are a very very HOT operation and the rotor can warp due to the heat and/or cheap materials or construction.
Have inspected - checked if they can be resurfaced/turned, more likely they'll have to be replaced. - Squishy or soft brake pedal - This means there is AIR in the brake system! Not good!
This air must be removed from the system - known as "bleeding the brakes". May not require brake parts to be replaced.
- Inspection - front brake pads are the easiest to get a look at just behind the wheel. With a flashlight and turning the wheels to each extreme, you should be able to see how much brake pad material is left.
You need to take a trip to Pep Boys or Auto Zone and get an owner's manual for about 20 bucks.
Usually the fronts have brake pads and the rears have brake shoes. Both can be done by the home mechanic, but fronts are much, much easier for the novice.
But a set of pads for the front is about 10 bucks, which is a lot better than the 90 bucks an axle "special" at Midas or anywhere else, because as we all know, once they get their mitts on your car they want you to believe it's a deathtrap and the estimates rocket accordingly.
One thing that can happen over time (about every 50,000 miles) is that the discs that the pads press against to stop you get worn unevenly. You can feel this is you come up to a stop light and brake long and fairly gently; you might feel the judder, or pulsing, with your feet.
These discs are fairly cheap at 15 bucks a side for my Sunfire, but they are often stuck on there pretty good, and you might need to borrow or rent a puller to get them off. No. Make that you WILL need a puller to get them off.
Doing the rear shoes is a pain because there's the parking brake to deal with, and there's all kinds of springs and crap in there. But, it's do-able if you have an undisturbed weekend.
I have replaced the fuel pump in my 1994 Chevrolet s10 blazer i am still having problems?
i have no electric to pump
What is the ignition timing set at for a 1979 928 Porsche?
26-28 Before Top-Dead-Center (BTDC) in euro model at 3000rpm
approx. 8 degrees at idle
Oxygen sensor wiring colors for 1999 Toyota tacoma 2.7l?
I found some good reference info on this topic at:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/O2SensorWireColors.html
Accordingly the sensor wire colors for Toyota O2 sensors (from the sensor to the plug) would be as follows
Blue = Sensor +
White = Sensor -
Black = Heater
Black = Heater
never break up through text. Just face to face convo..its always hard but the only decent way.
Where is the oil cooler located on a ford windstar?
I appologize if I am wrong, but I have never seen an "oil" cooler in a Windstar. This is usually a aftermarket kind of thing. The engine oil is cooled inside the engine from the radiator fluid that runs through the radiator. There is also a transmission fluid cooler and possibly a steering cooler. All these will be located near or around the radiator in the front of the engine compartment. Actually there are certain windstars that have an additional factory oil cooler. The model I have run into is the 1998 Northwoods edition windstar. It has a factory standard oil cooler system mush like what is seen in large trucks.
Would the spark plugs and wires cause the engine to back fire on a 96 Ford Windstar?
Sure can - absolutely yes.
See "Related Questions" below for more about these fundamentals of getting the electrical voltage down to the plug to fire off the air/fuel mix.
How do you remove side panels on a Ford Windstar?
For removing the door side panels, See "Related Questions" below for specifics on the front & side doors.
Where is the vehicle speed sensor on a 1990 Honda accord 4 door?
it is under the throttle body on top of the transmission.
How do you change a 2003 ford windstar transmission?
For anyone removing a transmission, you really really should have a Chiltons or Haynes service manual!!
Short of that, consult online resources like Autozone.com's Repair Guide or some of the "for pay" repair manual services like AllData.
In the meantime, the "Related Question" below covers removing a transmission from a 1995 Windstar - I suspect it is equally applicable to the 1999-2003 vintage Windstars too.
The rear panel can be removed by first taking out the blank panel at the bottom of the panel arm rest. It's a small about 3" long panel and it just clips out. This exposes two torx screws that hold the arm rest to the door. Remove those. There may be a screw behind the door latch also, but I don't remember. Anyway, those are the hidden screws. Once they are removed, the whole panel can be pulled off, it is attached with those slip in GM plastic fasteners. If you break them, don't worry, they are available at AutoZone, or about any other parts place. The panel will unclip and then go up to clear the upper clips by the window. The power window and lock buttons can also be disconnected by unclipping them from the panel, and removing the wires after opening the clip holding them on to the switch.
Where is the vehicle speed sensor on a 1998 Nissan frontier 4wd pickup?
Its located in the transfer case
Where is the Oil Pump on a 1998 Ford Windstar located?
It is inside the oil pan on the bottom of the engine block.
Check your antifreeze coolant level is it going down , is your oil milky ? does your oil smell like gas , do a compression test this will help to determine if you have bad rings ( gas getting into oil ) When did you get your oil changed last ( filter plugged ) When you say "high", do you mean when you first pull the dipstick out without wiping it? If so this is normal, as the oil is pumped through the motor it "looks" high, but it's not. The oil gets splashed onto the dipstick, making it appear that the oil level is higher. Check the oil when the motor has been off for awhile to get the true reading. When you first pull the dipstick out wipe it with a clean rag and reinsert it all the way in, pull it back out, this will be the true reading. Measure your oil level when parked on level ground.
The problem is the electric blend door actuator. It's a small piece rear the radio that fail often. It controls how much heated air coming from the heater core passes through the blower. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- = Blend Door Problem = Your problem sounds like the common blend door problem on the Ford Expeditions, and Ford Explorer. The door is on a vertical axis and when it breaks, it can swing back and forth randomly giving heat or AC or nothing. The difference on acceleration is the force placed on the door swinging it one direction.
You can check the operation by fully opening the glove box, removing the actuator motor on top of the plenum box and examining the blend door axle. Pictures of the common fail signature are available on the heatertreater.net web site. There are several "free" fixes that mostly are worth what you pay for them. The solution on the web site is solid and proven over hundreds of vehicles and will resolve the problem once and for all.
Does running the ac in extreme hot weather cause engine to overheat?
If coolant is up to proper level and cooling fans are working - should not overheat
Why does oil warning light come on when oil level is ok?
The oil warning light has little to do with oil level other than the fact that without oil the engine cannot generate oil pressure. Babbit bearings, the type of bearing used in all internal combustion engines consist of a finely machined, perfectly cylindrical surface on a crankshaft or camshaft and a finely cast babbit bearing insert that fits into the engine block. During engine operation the oil pump creates pressure that is injected into rod, main and crankshaft bearings through oil "journals" that are through the block, allowing the pressurized oil to reach critical bearing surfaces. The babbit bearings have holes that align with the holes in the engine block. During normal engine operation, pressurized oil reaches the babbit bearings, supporting the crankshaft/camshaft and keeping the moving parts from actually touching. When oil pressure drops it is because the babbit surface has been partially worn away and oil leaks out past the bearing surfaces at a rate that is too high for the oil pump to maintain the pressure required for the engine to function as designed. Lower oil pressure is usually an indication of worn main or rod bearings. The solution is expensive. Thicker oil or an oil thickener can help reduce the rate at which the oil leaks past the bearing surfaces but these are only methods to squeeze a little more life out of an ailing engine. Select an oil with a higher viscocity number and you MAY be able to slightly raise the oil pressure.
Why would a car overheat when the defrost is on?
The defrost selection cycles the AC pump, regardless of what temperature you are choosing to defrost at. This cycles the freon, and cools the evaporator (inside dash), and heats up the condenser (in front of radiator) I would check for 1. the fan working in front of the motor... 2. road debris, bugs, cotton from weeds plugging the space between the radiator and the condenser (common)
