Ford Windstar GL

on the 3.8 from underneath the car follow the speedo cable from steering coluumn area across the the transmission you can feel the cable and the vss sensor you can't see it. the exhaust pipes restrict acess but it is possible to remove without exhaust removal jack up vehicle remove drivers tire. it really helps if you have someone to help at this point you need a 10 mm swivel socket several 1/4 extensions about 20 to 30 " of extensions. 1 person holds the ratchet from the wheel well while other person guides socket to the retain bolt and tries to hold socket on bolt while helper turns ratchet this will remove the vss pull wire cable and sensor back in thr direction of the cable. the speedo cable is a 2 piece unit the lower half can be removed . once vss sensor is out disconnect wire and cable. I haven't ever been into the dash areas so I can't help you on that end. Doing the lower end can be very difficult good tools small hands and mechanical ability is a plus the speedo cable connects into the vss which enters transmission it has a gear on end which is driven. it all pulls out once the 10mm bolt is removed 3/8 ratchet and extensions may also work

Isn't it attached to the solinoid mounted to the starter? vbd

because ford put the door switches in the latch itself. over time the switches dry out and stick. a shot of GOOD penetriating oil should do the trick. spray all of the latches then open and close each door/hatch a few times to work the oil into the mechanisum.

You do not bypass a neutral safety switch.

It is critical to the operation of the vehicle.

Spend the $25 to buy a new one - then follow the instructions in the "Related Questions" below to replace it.

Try to reach up from underneath but if you dont have room or cant reach it then remove the trim around the instrument cluster and heater (all one piece) unscrew instrment cluster and carefully remove the cluster the lights are in sockets that are removed from the back

The most simple solenoid valve is like a plunger. The plunger holds the water from flowing into the rest of the piping. The plunger is also attached to metal core cylinder which is external to the piping. The core is "floating" inside a coil of wire. When electric current is applied to the coil, it induces a magnetic field inside and around the coil which causes the core to be pulled into it. The moving core, then, of course, releases the plunger and water flows. There usually is a spring on the other side of the core that, when the current is turned off, pushes the core and the plunger back to a closed position.

It needs to be programmed(the odometer and to the current key your using) you will need to take it to a ford garage to have the replacement instrument cluster programmed. Hope this helps! been there done that.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Properly drain the transaxle. 3. Remove the air intake duct. 4. Disconnect the TV cable. Remove the shift cable and bracket. 5. Tag and detach all necessary vacuum lines and electrical connections. 6. Remove the power steering pump and set aside. 7. Remove the transaxle filler tube. 8. Install engine support fixture J 28467-A or equivalent. 9. Remove the top engine-to-transaxle bolts. 10. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 11. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies. Remove the left splash shield. 12. Remove both front ABS wheel speed sensors and the harness from the left suspension support. 13. remove both lower ball joints. 14. Disconnect the stabilizer shaft links. 15. Remove the front air deflector. 16. Remove the left suspension support and both drive axles. 17. Disconnect the engine-to-transaxle brace, then remove the transaxle converter cover. 18. Remove the starter 19. Unfasten the flywheel-to-torque converter bolts. 20. Disconnect the transaxle cooler pipes. 21. Detach the ground wires from the engine-to-transaxle bolt. 22. Remove the cooler pipe brace and the exhaust brace. 23. Remove the bolts from the engine and transaxle mount. 24. Support the transaxle with a suitable jack. 25. Unfasten the transaxle mount-to-body bolts. 26. Remove the heater core hose pipe brace-to-transaxle nut and bolt. 27. Unfasten the remaining engine-to-transaxle bolts, then remove the transaxle assembly from the vehicle. 28. Place a thin film of GM part no. 1051344 or equivalent grease on the torque converter pilot knob. 29. Move the transaxle assembly into position with the jack while installing the right drive axle. Make sure to properly seat the torque converter in the oil pump. 30. Install the lower transaxle retaining bolts in their proper positions, as shown in the accompanying figure. 31. Install the transaxle mount-to-body bolts as shown in the accompanying figure. 32. Install the engine and transaxle mount bolts. 33. Fasten the exhaust brace and the cooler pipe brace. 34. Connect the ground wires at the engine-to-transaxle bolt. 35. Attach the transaxle cooler pipes. 36. Apply adhesive/sealing compound GM part no. 12345493 or equivalent on the flywheel-to-torque converter bolts, then install the bolts. Install the converter cover/shield. 37. Install the starter. 38. Fasten the engine-to-transaxle brace. 39. Install the drive axles and the left suspension support. 40. Fasten the front air deflector. 41. Connect the stabilizer shaft links and the lower ball joints. 42. Install both ABS wheel speed sensors. 43. Fasten the left splash shield, then install the heater core pipe brace nut and bolt. 44. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle. 45. Install the top engine-to-transaxle bolts. 46. Remove the engine support fixture. 47. Install the filler tube. 48. Install the power steering pump assembly, then adjust the belt. 49. Attach the electrical connections and vacuum lines, as tagged during removal. 50. Install the shift cable and bracket. Connect the TV cable. 51. Fasten the air intake duct. 52. Connect the negative battery cable, then fill the transaxle to the proper level.

first you should release the belt tension pully and remove the belt. Then the idler pully has a bolt through the center remove the bolt and the pully should come off.

The Fleetwood of this vintage has a circuit breaker on the fuse panel. It is a cylindrical device that snaps in like a fuse and on the bottom of the fuse panel. Check your manual for the exact location. That may --not-- be the problem, it could be a fuseable link between there and the starter, where the power divides coming from the battery. There is a possiblity of a problem with the ignition switch causing the problem as well. Also, this divine classic has the "Emergency" switch and bypass switch, which could be root of the problem. The best thing is to become friends with your DC voltmeter and trace out the circuit. A Cadillac shop manual is your best friend for doing this. I have one for my 1968 Fleetwood Limo and have spent many "quality" hours with this good book.

I would suspect the vehicle speed sensor

See "Related Questions" below for more

float could be stuck, or the fuse could be blown, some cars show full,empty or half when there is no voltage (normaly a 10 amp fuse)

Could also be a bad sending unit.

Unfortunately this is located inside the gas tank and is part of the fuel pump assembly. See "Related Questions" below for more

That one is easy as I believe every Windstar in the entire known universe came equipped with 15" or 16" wheels.

The "dip stick" usually dips directly into the oil pan, so if it fell "in", it would still be in the oil pan. Now on the other hand if it fell "out" then you would know better where it went;-0 If the top broke off and it fell down the tube it cannot go all the way into the oil pan you can take a small magnet and fish it out. if you don't have a small magnet try holding a biger magnet to a piece of metal such as a long , small screwdriver or another dip stick it will magnatize it and make it stick to the one in the hole. you may also try one of those screw retrivers with the retractable fingers in the end you may be able to get it with that it shouldn't be more than 5 inches down in the tube

I want to clarify if you are asking if you can blow air through a fuel injector? If this is your question, I am not really sure what you are going to gain by trying to do this. A fuel injector has a tiny valve inside that opens with an electrical pulse from the PCM. Even if you could open that valve, the passages inside the injector are the size of a pinprick. There is nothing to be gained in trying to blow air through an injector. You will not even be able to tell how much air is going through the injector, and how much air is going around the injector as you are doing this. If the injector will not clean up with injector cleaners, then it will require replacement.

the senor is located below the brakes master cylinder on the front fender panel.

It is threaded-They make a special tool (NOT EXPENSIVE) available at Sears

Traction Control What is it and how does it work? What is traction, and what does traction control do on my car while I drive? Traction is the grip that your car’s tires have on the road, which is needed to accelerate, turn and brake. If your car, or more specifically, your tires have little or no grip; your car will not accelerate, turn or brake and will skid. Traction control devices in the car will help prevent this loss of grip so your tires will have traction to accelerate, turn and brake. The most common and well-known traction control device is the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS). ABS is designed to prevent your wheels from locking up during panic or hard braking. When braking, if your front wheels lock-up, steering control is lost and your car will continue in the same path as before you attempted to brake. The system consists of a host of speed sensors and a central computer. Speed sensors are located at the wheels of the car, which tell the computer how fast they are turning. The computer constantly evaluates the speed of the vehicle and the speed of the wheels. When the brake pedal is depressed and the speed of the wheel reaches or get close to locking-up, the ABS computer will then modulate the amount of brake pressure (or “pump” the brakes), as fast as fifteen times per second, on that wheel. This continuing modulation or pumping will prevent or correct wheel lock-up and allow the driver to brake and steer. ABS systems do vary from auto manufacturer to auto manufacturer. It is important know if the car you are driving is equipped with ABS and how to brake if ABS is activated. Shortly after its introduction in the marketplace, there were insurance industry studies that showed ABS equipped cars were in a higher rate of accidents then those not equipped. In this study, it was shown that the most frequent factor in these accidents was driver error. Drivers were not putting enough pressure on the brake, not holding brake pressure long enough or trying to pump the brakes. Evidence also suggests that drivers were over confident when driving an ABS equipped car and were not allowing for a safe following or braking distance. To correctly use the brakes in an ABS equipped car in a panic situation, the driver must apply the brakes 100 percent, using all available force. The ABS computer will prevent brake lockup and the tires sliding on the travel surface. This will allow the driver to steer around the threat. It is important to remember that ABS can increase straight-line stopping distances beyond that of threshold braking in a non-ABS equipped car. ABS offers drivers, in an emergency situation, the ability to maintain steering control so they can steer clear of an obstacle or threat. Current ABS systems give feedback to the driver to let them know it is activated and operating during the current braking maneuver. The most common way that ABS communicates to the driver is a pulsing sensation felt in the braking foot or a rattling noise during braking. This is normal operation and is telling the driver ABS is working. As discussed above, do not attempt to modulate the brake yourself and remember to use all the brake force available. The ABS system will take care of the modulation for you and allow you to steer around a threat. As marketed by most automakers, but related to ABS, is Traction Control. Traction Control is used to prevent the drive wheels from losing grip when accelerating. Spinning tires during hard acceleration may be dramatic, but it is the slowest way to get to your desired speed. Using the car’s ABS speed sensors at the wheels, the Traction Control computer compares the drive wheel’s speed to the car’s road speed. If there is a loss of grip event during acceleration, there are a number of ways that the Traction Control slows the drive wheels so they can regain grip. The most common method is to use the braking system. When the drive wheels lose grip, the ABS computer can apply the brake to the wheel that has lost grip to slow it down so it can regain grip. Another method for slowing the slipping wheels is to reduce the amount of power applied to them. The computer will electronically modify the amount of fuel entering the engine and/or use the transmission to slow the drive wheels so they can regain grip.

Although not exact, Ford does have the 1996 Owners Manual online.

See "Related Questions" link below for details I didn't see the 1995 manual, but they do have the 1996 which will be virtually identical: http://www.analogstereo.com/ford_windstar_owners_manual.htm

how do you change a shaft soleniod in a ford windstar 1995 v6 3.8 engin

upon the transmission

Fuel Level Sending Unit is bad. Located in the fuel tank with the pump. If the car has over 75,000 miles replace the pump at the same time to avoid removing the tank again at a later date to replace a bad pump, and save that labor charge. 100,000 miles is considered the life of a pump. Some last longer and some last a shorter period of time. A partially clogged fuel filter will cut miles off the life of a pump, so replace the fuel filter also. It is also possible the gage is bad or there are loose wires at the sending unit. so check that out before removing the fuel tank.

There are two screws in the black part of the inner space of the dash. Unscrew them, then remove the black part. Then you will see the dash assembly held on by a couple of screws, I think about 4 screws. Then the dash assembly will slide out from the dash, there are three harnesses attached to the dash assembly. Be careful when pulling them out so you don't rip out a wire or two. But unplug the harnesses and the assembly will be out and then you just reinstall it the same way you to it out