Ford Windstar GL

You need a code scanner, I bought one on eBay for about $40.00 It's called (OBD II).

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

You can't - you need a scanner / tool to reset it. However - you can disconnect the battery and that will clear all the codes.

By far the easiest way without the computer scanner is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes - that will clear everything from the computer.

Look up at the upper part of the instrument panel and you will see (2) recessed Phillips head screws. After removing these screws you should be able to pull down on the bezel and carefully snap out the bezel. It is tricky, so be carefull. It helps if the tilt steering wheel is all the way down.

After the bezel is removed you will see the instrument panel is being held in place by screws around the outer edges. after removing these screws the whole instrument cluster comes out with the cables still attached. You will see the bulbs that are twist locked into the circuit board. It is then easy to untwist and remove them.

Rick Kellerrickadak@comcast.net

I replaced the synchronizer on my 96 Windstar 3.8L because my van was making a terrible screeching noise. At first I thought it was the water pump or the belt tensioner but as a process of elimination I removed my accessory belt to run the vehicle for half a minute to see if the noise was still there. To my surprise the squeaking was still there eliminating the belt driven components. Then I knew the bearing was worn on the camshaft synchronizer. There are 2 basic ways to remove and install a new camshaft synchronizer. The first by the book requiring an additional person to help rotate the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder on the engine is top dead center and a special alignment tool for around $25 to $30. This is the gold standard for insuring your vehicles timing is set properly, but is more labor intensive and requires more skill and tools. Or a significantly easier way if a few criteria about your vehicle are met The easier method requires that the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer has not been damaged by the magnet coming loose out of the camshaft position sensor that is bolted on top, and that the old synchronizer is currently set properly so you can set the new synchronizer in the exact same position as the old one. Basically, if the old one is set right the new one will be right if you match the orientation of the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer while the engine is left motionless during the repair. Simple.

I chose the second method to fix my van and here is how I did it. First remove the negative battery cable and remove the accessory belt off of one of your pulleys if your synchronizer is close to the belt. Both to ensure the crank remains motionless during the repair. When removing the assembly from the engine it is going to have an approximate length of 1 foot with limited ability to turn it in any direction until it is fully out. So you need to remove whatever will get in the way. The reason for the extra length is on some models the oil pump hex shaft has a little internal snap ring and will come out with the synchronizer. This will need to be transferred into the bottom of the new synchronizer before installation. I had to remove the cowl and loosen a bracket near the tensioner and a few electrical connectors. Remove the camshaft position sensor (CPS) using 5.5mm (7/32) socket. Check the condition of the synchronizer vane and the CPS magnet. DO NOT loosen the bolt holding the synchronizer to the engine block yet! With a marker mark the current location of one of the sides of the half-moon vane on the top of the old synchronizer. What you are really doing here is marking the relationship between the vane and the threaded holes that the CPS bolts into. This is critical to do accurately because this is what controls the timing and you want to match this as close as possible on the new one. Second mark the outside of the synchronizer where it meets the engine block and extend the mark onto the engine block as well. Here I used the casting seam that runs from the holes for the CPS because the old and new part has the same seam in the same location therefore it is easy to transfer the mark. This is less critical and ensures the CPS is positioned correctly in order to attach to the electrical connector. Now take some digital pictures trying to get good views of the vane location to reference later.

Loosen the bolt holding the synchronizer to the engine block. Rock the synchronizer while pulling up. The vane will rotate about ⅜" counter clockwise as you pull it out because the gears on the synchronizer are spiral. A trick is to try to remove the synchronizer without altering the natural rotation so you can note its new location in relation to the mark on top (about ⅜" counter clockwise) this will be useful later when installing the new part. Transfer the marks made on the old synchronizer to the new synchronizer as accurately as possible. If the oil pump hex came out of the engine with the synchronizer assembly then yank the shaft out of the old synchronizer and insert the correct end into the new synchronizer making sure it is seated fully into the new part. Pour new motor oil onto the internal portions of the new synchronizer bearing and gears and rotate working in the oil.

Insert the new synchronizer back into the hole. The spiral gear will begin to engage about 2" above its fully seated position. It is at this point you will need to recall the vane position after removal (about ⅜" counter clockwise of the top mark) and then set the new synchronizer vane to this position before engaging its spiral gear back into position as it will now rotate about ⅜" clockwise as it seats into place. The goal is to have all the marks and the vane match in its fully seated position. You will probably need more than one attempt if so lift the synchronizer up until the spiral gear disengages and rotate the gear a tooth and try again. Compare the fully seated synchronizer position to your pictures. You should be able to get the marks very close but because of machining tolerances your new part may not line up perfectly with your marks. Since the relationship between the vane and the CPS bolt holes are the critical mark align those perfectly and allow the mark at the engine block to float a little if needed. Tighten the bolt at the engine block. Compare the new synchronizer positions to your pictures one last time. Reassemble everything in reverse order of disassembly. Finished.

Where is the key in the ignition warning chime module located on a 1990 Ford Thunderbird

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how long dose it take befoure it overheat

I found a recall something about the heater core running at high temps that will eventually lead to coolant lines bursting and fogging up the interior windows. There is a fix with a new designed radiator cap and something else. I found it by searching google with 1990 BMW 325i.

1997 Ford Truck Windstar

Headlights

Inspect | Replace

There can be slight variations in procedure from one model to another when replacing headlights. For instance, on some models the turn signal light assembly must be removed before the headlight can be replaced. Overall, however, the procedure does not differ much from the following typical instructions.

Make sure the replacement bulb is the same type and part number as the one that is being replaced.

Comparing the old and the replacement headlamps.

To Replace: Remove the headlight bezel retaining screws. Remove the bezel. If necessary, disconnect the turn signal lamp wires. Remove the retaining ring screws from one or both lights. Remove the retaining rings. Remove the light from the housing. Disconnect the wiring connector from the back of the light. Push the wiring connector onto the prongs at the rear of the new light. Place the new light in the headlight housing. Position it so the embossed number in the light lens is on the top. Place the retaining ring over the light and install the retaining ring screws. Tighten them slightly. Check the aim of the headlight and adjust it, if necessary. Install the headlight bezel. Secure it with the retaining screws. Connect the turn signal lamp wiring (if it was disconnected).

WARNING

Handle a halogen headlamp bulb carefully - grasp the bulb only by its plastic

base and do not touch the glass. The oil from your hand could cause the bulb to break the next time the headlamps are operated.

Do not remove the burned out bulb unless you can immediately replace it with a new one. If a bulb is removed for an extended period of time, contaminants may enter the headlamp and affect its performance.

To remove the headlamp bulb:

1. Make sure that the engine is off and the headlamp switch on the instrument panel is in the OFF position.

2. Lift the hood and locate the headlamp bulb installed in the rear of the headlamp. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling the connector away from the bulb assembly.

3. Squeeze the bulb retaining clip toward the bulb until it releases. Keep the clip. You must use it again to hold the new bulb in place.

4. Carefully remove the bulb assembly from its socket by gently pulling it rearward without turning.

5. Do not touch the bulb with your skin or you could shatter the bulb. Always grasp the bulb assembly from the plastic base.

6. Be sure that you have the proper replacement bulb ready before you discard the burned out bulb.

To install a bulb:

1. With the flat side of the bulb's plastic base facing upward, insert the glass end of the bulb into the socket. You may need to turn the bulb left or right to line up the grooves in the plastic base with the tabs in the socket. When the grooves are aligned, push the bulb into the socket until the plastic base contacts the rear of the socket. Do not touch the glass with your fingers.

2. Snap the retaining clip over the plastic base.

3. Push the electrical connector into the rear of the plastic base until it snaps, locking it into place.