Ford Windstar GL

Take the door off of the hinges and take the hardware off.......all of it. tape off the edges if the sun burn or rot isn't in the inside.Use DADS easy spray chemical stripper and apply libbarly with a throw away 4inch brush. Or a heat gun will do also. Get a really nice quality scraper and start pulling the scraper toward you and the crap into a bucket as you go. If ther is rot fix it by tearing the rot out until its hard wood and tape off the spot and fill with epoxy resin mixed with wood dust. Sand the door wth a random orbital sander. Use 60grit,120grit,then 220grit for a smooth finish. Revarnish then scotch brite synthetic steel wool (Black)after the first coat dries. Next coat, sand with a medium sanding sponge then scotchbrite until dull. Final coat and done! Remember to keep a wet edge you can add penetrol and cut in the rails as you work from the top in a circle,up the stile to where you started, always brushing with the grain.

Principal Application: Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (81-08), Chrysler/Jeep (02-08), Mazda Trucks (94-07)

If the cupholder on the 2002 Windstar is the same as the 2001 then there is a small plastic clip on the top of the cupholder that locks in a groove when the cupholder is in the out position. Push the clip down with a small screwdriver and pull the cupholder out. (This works on a 1998 Windstar, also.)

If you don't have to remove the housing for the cupholder et al, You can remove just the sliding part by reaching under it when its open and there is a small tang that you have to push down (towards the floor) and it will slide out Remove the center console (4 plastic screws. remove the center instrument panel trim (snaps off, but be careful not to break it.) remove 2 ashtray mounting bolts on the front (behind the trim you removed) open the ashtray to expose 2 mounting bolts under the ashtray, remove the light tray light (from underneath, it snaps off, and pull the ashtray ouy the front. (Sounds a lot harder than it is.

It's supposed to. You have a cycling clutch compressor. When system pressure reaches a predetermined high, a sensor disengages the compressor clutch, and engages it back on when system pressure drops to a predetermined low point. What you're experiencing is normal operation.

on top of the differential, near firewall, under/inside a foil bag. Black plastic, right angle, screw-on part

cut your stabilizer off its alot easier and time saving the socket will spin inside

Is an electrical device used to heat coolant of a vehicle at extreme cold condition for easy startup.

First you need to jack the vehicle up and support it on stands, then remove the tire. Remove the torsion bar and disconnect the lower shock mount, and remove the stabilizer bar connecting rod from the lower link. Loosen the lower ball joint nut, and use a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint from the lower link, then disconnect the tension rod from the lower link. Remove the front lower link pivot nut and push the stud out, then remove the torque arm from the frame. Remove the ball joint by removing the retaining bolts and install the new one, I suggest you replace the bushing as well.

FUEL PUMP RELAY. IF YOU SHORT THE FUSEBOX TERMINALS FOR PRE PUMP AND MAIN PUMP YOU WILL BE BYPASSING THE RELAY. IF IT THEN STARTS IT SHOULD BE THE RELAY THAT IS FAULTY. OF COURSE RETRY STARTING WITH THE SHORT REMOVED TO CONFIRM PROBLEM. DONT LEAVE SHORT ON PERMANENTLY, ONLY TEMPORARILY..

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find a/c compressor remove center bolt from electric clutch use a bridge puller span the clutch face plate now put a longer bolt through the center of puller, thread back into the clutch face plate as you tighten the bolt it will pull off face plate.go buy a snap ring remover set then take out the center snap ring the clutch housing and bearing will come off now just bump it with a block of wood.Install new clutch reverse order.remember your air gap is determined by the washers between face plate and clutch on center bolt.if you dont care if a/c works when your done you can force the clutch face plate off with two opposing flat screw drivers after removing center bolt.Now with this info you can make that dreadful bearing screech go away.Dont be fooled by regular auto techs you do not have to replace the compressor to put on a new clutch bearing assembly.Now you have the plan Get to work it will take you 1 to 4 hours on your skill level.God Bless have a great day

Check the transmission cooler, located in front of the radiator. Flush the coils with a hose to insure that air can flow to cool it.

wheel locks up and abs light come on because abs not working on that wheel lights go dim because alternator not working completely

SOunds like the rings on the pistons are bad. The rings are not sealing and the pressure in the combustion chamber is blowing by the rings and causing pressure in the crankcase thus blowing oil out the filler tube. You may, I said may be able to eliminate some of it by buying a can of RESTORE.........and adding it with your next oil change. I have never had a an engine with severely worn rings but this stuff is supposed to help seal the rings against the cylinder walls.............and maybe buy you some time. It's less than 10.00 You will need to drive it and see if it helps..........it may or may not depending on how bad the rings are. If the rings are too bad, you are looking at an engine tear down.......

Possibly under the hood of the van in the main fuse box. big blue or black square fuse.

Transverse

3800 lbs

Read you owner's manual.

It's underneath the water pump on the front of the engine, which is actually by the passenger fender since the engine sits sideways. It easiest to see and get to from below the vehicle. I discovered the sensor while trying to replace the water pump on my 1996 Windstar. The sensor was blocking one of the water pump bolts so I decided to remove it. It turned out to be a mistake because the sensor housing broke when I tried to pull it off. It was the original sensor so it was pretty well stuck on. A new one will cost me about $30.00. It's held on by two small bolts and has one plug connected to it. You should jack up the van, remove the passenger side wheel in order to get a better view of the sensor. The rear bolt, furthest from the front bumper, caused no problems. The front bolt, closest to the front bumper, was also easy to remove, but the sensor itself was stuck to the engine block. I tried to carefully pry the sensor loose but the front portion snapped off, leaving behind park of the plastic housing and metal insert that's part of the sensor piece. I haven't actually taken that part off the van yet since I'm still working on it. I'm waiting to see the new part before I go prying more stuff off. I think it was just stuck because it's been on there for so long. If your not sure what part to look for, Google search the part first in order to get a picture of one. Then it's easy to find based on what info I have provided. Good luck. P.S., if your water pump goes out your going to be in for a thrill. You should practice all of your 4 letter words before starting the project, you'll need them...

Low coolant, stuck thermostat, blown headgasket (from overheating BEFORE) or a damaged (rusted) water pump.

I am wondering if the engine is a 2.4 or a 2.7. if you have high mileage and have never changed spark plug or spark plug wires you could have a dead plug or wire or both. your timing could also be the culprit. do you have to crank a long time when the engine is cold to start it? if so the timing belt could have jumped a notch.this would cause the valves to be slightly open at the wrong time.these are some things tocheck Good luck

The 1992 Chevy K 1500 speed sensor is located on the back of the transmission. The speed sensor will be in the upper right-hand corner of the transmission.

the speed sensor should be located on the transfer case where the speedometer would go . there are several speed sensors on cars one at each wheel for the ABS system but a quick call to the dealer will probably help . on my 93 the speedometer sensor is located on the third member of the rear end.

You will need to remove the rear rotors in order to access the parking brake adjustment. Chances are the parking brakes are completely worn down, and the rotors will need to be replaced. The 2000-2001 Tahoes are notorious for sticking parking brakes. The Tahoe utilizes a drum style brake pad located inside the hat of the rear rotors. There is a fairly tight tolerance between the parking brake and the drum portion of the inside of the rotor. There is a cogged nut that can be spun to adjust the diameter of the parking brake assembly. The following is likely the cause of premature parking brake failure. The driver side has a lever located on the inner part of the brake assembly. On the driver side the lever has a protrusion that can get stuck against the back of the brake assembly when actuated. The protrusion serves no purpose, and there is a Chevy TSB that recommends grinding it off.

Port Fuel Injection, meaning fuel injrctor sprays into the port of the intake manifold.

The other type is TBI, throtle body injection. This type uses a central injector (or 2 injectors) that spay onto the throtle body butterfly. PFI is the better injection of the two