Ford Windstar GL

Either a hoist or a jack under the sump.

You may have a weak battery. Your starter may be bad.

have some one hold the lift gate up, remove the small retainer clip on one side of support remove that side then the other side of the same support in stall the new one so it in the same directions as old one hold support over stud push support onto stud do same for other side

Check engine should be activated. Usually it's insufficence flow. Don't recall trouble code number. Also a smell of rotten eggs will be noticed. If cat is starting to plug, Cat will turn a bright ruby red color, and engine will not start. Loss of power is another indicator of plugged converter, especially going up hills

When owning a car, it is important to know how much fuel it will hold. A 2009 Mini-coopers gas tank with hold about 13. 2 gallons of fuel.

Stong possiblity of tire balance problem. If you live in a cold weather State as I do, you may have ice built up on the inside of the rim causing an imbalance. Front wheels are the likely focal point.

I am having the same problem as you are with my 95 Windstar but my windows work intermitantly. First thing I would do is check the fuses. There are separate fuses for driver and passenger windows. If this isn't the problem then I would check the relays for the windows. They might be sticking or something. You can buy new ones from NAPA for about $7 each. I personally try the cheap approach first. If this isnt the answer, then get a tester and see if you have power to the window motor. If you do have power when the door switch is activated, then you have a bad motor. I would then recommend that a dealer replace because glass breaks easily.

Also Try this!!!

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Like I said earlier, I put the vehicle on my lift, remove all retaining hardware, and place a trans. jack under the unit and let it down............i have no idea how you will do it.

The only way to remove the one-way security screws is to drill them out with a cobalt drill bit. The best cobalt bits made are from snap-on and the 4 bit kit (left handed or right handed bits) run approximate $150.00 for the set. You also need a VERY precise drill (air or electric) and a ton of cutting agent to prevent the bit from over heating.

There are also one-way screwdrivers available for purchase at hardware and home improvement stores.

I posted this question and survived the job. I have detailed instructions from this point should anyone need them. Of course they didn't mention a small point. It requires disassembly of the front end of the car. The grill, top radiator support, bumber surround and headlights, then you can start. The directions were perfect after that small point. Re-post if anyone needs them.

while the car is on the ground, and the brake on, remove the bolt that keeps the axle on the steering knuckle... then raise the vehicle, and support the vehicle on jack stands, remove the tire then remove the ball joint clamp bolt... remove the 4 bolts going to the sway bar... use a pry bar and gently pry the control arm down... remove the bolt from the steering knuckle. pull the steering knuckle outward releasing the axle from the steering knuckle, then gently remove it from the transmission being careful not to damage the boot or the CV joint... to install just do it in reverse

Start the engine and make sure it's up to normal operating temp. Make sure everything is turned off(radio, a/c, fan blower, rear defrost etc.) If your distributor has a vacum hose, disconnect it and plug the filter. Hook up your timing light and check your marks. If the timing is off, you'll need to loosen the distributor hold down bolts and turn the distributor clockwise to advance it or counter clockwise to retard it. Once you get it set, tighten the bolts and re-check it. Reconnect your vacuum line and drive on. If you can't get the timing set, you need to look for vacuum leaks somewhere on the intake. I don't know the spec on that car, but it should be on a label under the hood.

It is located on top of rear axle in center.

pass. side air bag has short or repaired wrong

PCV VALVE SHOULD BE LOCATED ON THE BACK OF YOUR ENGINE IN THE VALVE COVER, IF IT'S A V-6. A WONDERFUL SOURCE OF INFO FOR YOUR CAR IS A WEB SITE CALLED ALLDATA.COM. IT IS AN ONLINE TECH MANUAL FOR ANY VEHICLE YOU ENTER, IT COST $14.95 A YEAR BUT WELL WORTH IT, I HAVE MY CORSICA LISTED AND IT'S VERY VALUABLE. T HEMPLE On 89 4 cyl vacuum hose goes to a unit that screws into valve cover. Pcv inside of hole in valve cover. Have to remove pcv valve by putting needle nose pliars into hole in valve cover and pulling out pcv. In addition to new pcv you may need new O-ring. This info was hard to find as it was in a short paragraph in a repair manual. Maybe V-6 is similar. When you unscrew unit you cannot see pcv unless you direct a flashlight into hole in valve cover-easier to see at night

There are two sensors located on the driver's side of the transmission. there is an input and and output sensor. You can get to them from the underside of the car.

When fixing the rack and pinion in a car, it important to have a diagram. The diagram for this can be found in the cars maintenance manual.

Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input indicates a low voltage problem in the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (FTPS). What the fuel FTP sensor does is convert fuel tank absolute pressure into electrical signals and inputs the signal to the ECM/PCM, (Computer). First thing to do is make sure the gas cap is good and tightened properly. Then check the vacuum lines and wiring at the FTPS (Location-Fuel Tank) to be sure they are good, clean and tight. Barring a wiring problem it can be a bad FTPS or PCM.

The bleeder valve is located under the van near each tire. Locate the rubber gromet and remove. Loosen the nut slightly till fluid trickles out, and you see bubbles. Let it bleed out till you no longer see bubbles. Make sure you keep master cylinder full or you will introduce new air in the line. Repeat if neccessary. Bleed each brake closest to the master cylinder first in that order. Starting with the drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, and passenger rear. You will need the following tools: � Box-end wrench suitable for your car's bleeder screws. An offset head design usually works best. � Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding, about 3 if you are completely replacing). � 12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing, ID sized to fit snugly over your car's bleeder screws. � Disposable bottle for waste fluid. � One can of brake cleaner. � One assistant (to pump the brake pedal). 1. Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jack-stands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure! 2. Remove all road wheels. 3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel. 4. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process! Bleeding Process 1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid. 2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw � and don't lose it! 3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best � since it allows the most room for movement. 4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw. 5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle. 6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand. 7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so. 8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief � turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.) 9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do. 10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system! 11. The assistant should respond with "released." 12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles. 13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a �standard' bleed.) 14. Move systematically toward the driver � right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservoir! Keep it full! 15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure. 16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal � since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!) 17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary. 18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir! Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test 1. Re-install all four road wheels. 2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jack-stands. (CRITICAL) Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's recommended specs. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers. 3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process. 4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. It usually takes two people. One cracking the bleeders and the other pushing on the pedal. One person uses a wrench to loosen the bleed port on the brake cylinder or caliper. The assistant pushes the pedal down and while the pedal is held down the person closes the bleed port. The procedure is repeated until no air bubbles are in the fluid. You need to check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder to make sure it never gets low, otherwise you'll draw air into the line causing a low pedal. Repeat the procedure for each wheel and if the brake pedal is still soft, you may need to go around again to each wheel. If you can't EVER get all of the air out of the line, you may have a sucking leak on the master cylinder, meaning you'll need a new master cylinder.

There are two Torx bolts on eact caliper called guide pins you need to get a torx tool buy a socket kit so you have all the sizes. Do the usual stuff to get to the point of removing the calipers and then if you look on the inside of the calipers you will see the guide pins protected by a rubberlike boot, take the correct Torx tool and remove both pins gently remove the caliper and sopport it with a wire so you dont damage the brake line the pads just come pull out of the caliper and the new ones push in just be carefull to make sure the three prongs go into the center hole and dont score the outer walls. the rest is just the reverse Hope this helps Sean

The possible cause are bad brushes on the window lift motors. I had this same problem with my 97 camry. It turned out to be worn brushes. After an unsuccessful attempt to find replacement brushes, I had to buy a new motor. New or rebuilt motor and lift assemblies can be found at many parts suppliers on the web. The motors are not difficult to replace. Recommend buying a Haynes or Chilton auto repair manual that can take you through the steps to replacing same. Goodluck.

Buy Quick Diconect tools At a parts store.They come on a strip in various sizes.