Ford Windstar GL

This is for the 84-89 300ZX. There are 3 separate pieces that go with the Parking Brake. 1) The handle on the center console which has a cable connected to it, which in turn goes through the floor to a Y type cable connection. 2) Left side cable connected to the rear brake caliper that is channeled through the fame a few inches with clips that keep it in place. 3) Is the same as 2 but on the right side. I will have t assume that your cable is rusted and seized up. If the #1 cable seizes, you have to replace the whole handle piece which comes off with 4 bolts, 2 on handle and 2 for the cable that passes through the floor. The other two, you have to take the rear tires off and get under the car and take off the clips that hold the cable to the frame. Pull the cable out through the frame and replace.

Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger

The ball joints on the Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger are integral with the control arms. If the ball joint is defective, the entire control arm must be replaced.

( not always, Ball joint can be removed by taking off the spring clip on top, and then using penetrating oil and heat to drive the Lower Ball joint out. First remove steering knuckle as described below. And make sure not to get too close to the cv boot with the heat, I just did 2 on a 98 ranger, first drove out without heat, 2nd had to be heated and then driven out )

To remove the lower control arm, the torsion bar must be removed. Anytime the torsion bar is disturbed, the ride height must be checked and adjusted.

1.Position the steering wheel to the on-center position. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.

2.Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3.Remove the wheel lug nuts and wheel.

4.Disconnect the stabilizer bar link bolt from the lower control arm.

5.Remove the front shock absorber.

6.Remove the torsion bar.

7.Remove the lower ball joint retaining nut cotter pin and loosen the nut but do not remove it.

8.Disconnect the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using a jawed puller, such as Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F, or equivalent.

WARNING

Fasten a support, either out of a block of wood or wire wrapped around the frame, and support the weight of the steering knuckle/brake assembly. Do not allow the steering knuckle/brake assembly to hang from the upper ball joint as this may damage the joint.

9.Position a jack under the lower control arm then remove the lower ball joint retaining nut.

10.Raise the lower control arm until the lower ball joint stud is free from the steering knuckle.

11.Remove the two nuts and bolts retaining the lower arm pivot points to the frame crossmember.

12.Remove the lower control arm from the frame pockets. Some careful prying may ease the removal of the arm.

To install:

13.Inspect the lower ball joint, boot and pivot bushings. If any inspected components are worn or damaged, the entire control arm must be replaced.

Do not tighten the lower control arm mounting bolts to the final torque until the end of the installation procedure.

14.Position the lower control arm pivot points into the frame and crossmember pockets. Install the bolts and nuts and snug the bolts.

15.Position a jack under the lower control arm.

16.Install the torsion bar.

17.Raise the lower control arm to allow the lower ball joint stud to be inserted into the steering knuckle.

18.Lower the control arm assembly and ensure that the lower ball joint stud protrudes through the steering knuckle bore.

19.Install the lower ball joint attaching nut and tighten to 83-113 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm). Install a new cotter pin, advancing (tightening) the nut as required. Never loosen the retaining nut in order to install the cotter pin.

20.Install the shock absorber.

21.Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts.

22.Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

The lower control arm-to-frame bolts must be tightened with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels. If clearance permits, allow the vehicle to sit on the ground while tightening the bolts.

23.If necessary, raise the vehicle again and position either car ramps under the wheels or jackstands on the lower control arms, as close to the wheels as possible.

24.Tighten the control arm-to-frame bolts to 111-148 ft. lbs. (150-200 Nm).

25.Lower the vehicle.

26.Check and adjust the ride height.

27.While it should not be necessary, have the wheel alignment checked by a professional shop.

credit and thanks to:

justanswer.com

OK here we go. If the selector switch will not work i know the problem. if all you feel is the air blowing from the vents by the windshield it is vacuum related. this is what i found on my 2003 Ford Windstar. first pop your hood and open it up. Next remove the windshield wipers and place in a safe place, note the locating, or angle of wiper arms before you remove them. there are two deck covers which i call them on the bottom of the windshield that have to be removed or moved. using a Phillips head screw driver, remove the little black screws and black plastic guard under the windshield. under it will be a metal deck plate which will also need to be moved in order to see the vacuum lines behind the cabin air filter on the passenger side. I found the vacuum line that connects to the cabin air filter housing was disconnected. simply plug it back into its little nipple and your selector switch will work about 10 seconds after you start your vehicle. If this doesn't fix your problem there might be another vacuum line disconnected of you have other problems i didn't have. a good place to start is under the dash inside the vehicle. sometimes these lines can get damaged and or broken causing problems. I hope this helps a lot of people out there.

probably because there is a bad Ground-clean the socket where the bulb goes & coat w/vasoline & if there is metal on the socket housig ,clean that.That is IF U have 12 volts going 2 the socket-the tag light work with the running lights.

Sounds Like An Expansion Plug (freeze out plug) rather difficult to install a new one. GOOD LUCK

Something's wrong with your engine. You need to plug into one of those diagnostic computer tools, go to a dealer/repair shop/etc. You can buy those code reader things, but they're pricey.

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle.

Generally, a check engine light is lit when there is a problem in the emissions or somthing that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions.

If the check engine light is flashing a misfire has been detected

i experienced this about a yr ago and it could be a vacuum leak,air,idle control which runs about 100 bucks. best way to tell is take it to an automotive store or mechanic and have them run a diagnostics test. auto part stores do it for free but give a list of things it could be as to where a mechanic with the correct tools can tell you exactly what it is, just costs a little money. Also could be mass air flow sensor(MAF) which also runs about 100 bucks.

Trouble code P1538 means: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 2)

Both - a failing fuel pump will lose pressure, and the engine will run as though it is starving for gas.

Checking the fuel pressure checked and getting lower pressure readings than normal will indicate the need for a new pump.

you need to make a tool, a coat hanger will work. take wire cutters and start with 2 straight peices about 10 inches long at the end bend about a 1/2 inch at a right angle. slide these in each side of the instrument cluster with the bends pointing up, with both sides in turn wire 90 degrees and pull towards you, take it slow and once it is free take care with the oil perssure line and speedo cable, you should be able to see the bulbs from there, good luck and take your time!!

Another answer: You can actually do it without a special tool. The instrument panel is held in place by friction only. All you need to do is push it out. In Mercedes Benzes with stereo speakers in the dash, you can remove the loudspeaker nearest the instrument panel, get a few fingers through the hole and push a corner of the instrument panel out, the rest should follow with a little coaxing. If you have really long arms and are a bit of a contortionist, you can also reach up under the dashboard by the steering column and pedals and push it out that way. It may help to remove a trim panel.

You have a real problem that requires professional help. the car has to be put up on a lift and examined. it could be ball joints l tires, front end alignment and the list goes on. it is a very dangerous situatiion and you should receive immediate help.

if you look on the back of the fire wall, you should see a cable coming out of it which eventually leads to the axle. Within this cable will be a larger section which will contain gears that spin and produce the reading.

I think its supposed to be on the tranny somewhere ,but not sure where...

Pool pump overheating can be caused by:

* Low water level in the pool

The pump can not get enough water passing through it to keep it cool.

* Debris in the skimmer or pump baskets

Again low flow.

* Loose fittings into and out of the pump

* Loose pump lid or poor seal at the pump lid

bad gasket on pump lid.

Water in the pump gets to boiling temps when there is a lack of or low flow of water getting to the pump. The water simply boils away. Those high temps caused by friction begin to transfer to the pump housing and the PVC fittings into and out of the pump. That heat then shrinks the PVC because it has a low heat tolerance. The loose fittings allow air to enter the pump thus making the situation worse. Those loose and damaged fittings will then have to be removed and replaced. They can not be retightened because they are now smaller than tolerance allows. The heat also damages the pump seal and that too will have to be replaced.

Bronze pumps can also have the heat problem ~ damaged seal, damaged PVC fittings. If the system is plumbed in with copper you have a lesser chance of failure because the metal parts diffuse the heat buildup somewhat. It just takes longer. Some of the cheaper plastic pumps may have to be replaced too as their components will warp and shrink. k

I have a 98 Windstar (3.8L)and the Vehicle Speed Sensor (code p1538) is located just above the transaxle passenger (right) side and is accessible from the passenger side (right) front wheel well. Although it is simple to remove and replace (one bolt and one electrical connector), it is not simple to get to unless you have a hoist. You have to lift up all four wheels and disable the auto-levelling suspension first. Then you have to remove the right front wheel and the rear wheel well panel to get to the part. Because I did not have a hoist (or four jack stands) I had pep boys do the work (about $50.00 labor). The part at auto stores runs about $15.00 if you have electronic (digital read-out) odometer, or about $28.00 if you have manual (or analog) odometer. However, mine turned out to be different alltogether and I had to buy the dealer part (none other would fit) for about $48.00. Turn Key at Pep Boys was about $100.00 Finally, make certain the new part has a new O-ring to prevent leakage. If not you might be have more problems down the road. All the ones I looked at (AutoZone and Pep Boys) came with the O-ring.

I just had my 96 Passport in the shop for the same problem (all the power windows quit working). They replaced the power window relay. Labor $98.50, Part $30.00 go figure. I think the relay is located behind the drivers kick panel. Good luck.

turn the key to the run position and slowly pump the gas pedel 3 times and it will reset.

Thanks

JLamond219

on the front motor mount remove lower 18mm nut loosen back lower motor mount 18mm nut jack up front part of engine then remove top bolt on frount motor mount you need a 18mm swivel scoket with a long extion remove nut then remove mount. rear would be the same way do only one side at a time

You first have to remove the air conditioner compressor out of you way then jack up the motor, then undo the old motor mount bolts, top and bottom, then install the new mount. then put back together in reverse order.

It could be torsional vibration coming from the transmission. It would be a very good idea to take the car back to the dealer for them to look at.

what you have could be one of three problems. Check your reservoir to see if it has plenty of brake fluid, bleed your brakes,they may of lost the fluid while changing brakes. Also, if you have a vacuum leak it will cause your brakes not to work. Or it could be your master cylinder or your vacuum booster that has went bad. brewski

i have a fiesta azura and i needed a drivers door and passenger door i went to my local breakers yard and they supplied them and fitted them for 40 quid each

On the 91 - 96 E350 there is no VSS. It is called a ABS Speed sensor and it is located on the top of the rear differential. I had the misfortune to be missled with the VSS theory as well and several weeks and a lot of wasted time and money, in frustration I just pulled the ABS speed sensor off and replaced it. My ABS light went out and my automatic transmission shifts well to include the overdrive. I hope this helps you.

No for the 1995 Ford Windstar LX you are limited transmission wise to pulling one from a 1995 - 1997 where if you swap for a 1998 you need to replace the computer system as well.

From 1995 - 1998 the Ford Windstar line (base, wagon, LX & GL) used the transmission Ford build for the Taurus line. With the added 2,000 pound weight the vehicle holds the torque converted wears out fairly quickly and causes a third-gear ratio to come in to effect.

Should you decide to replace the transmission on any year above mentioned you best option is to have one rebuild for $1,500.00 - $2,000.00 depending on what state you live in as regards to labor prices. Make sure they either replace the torque converter with a brand new piece or rebuild it and that they aren't just swapping the transmission (some shops have been caught doing this) from another Ford Windstar with a year from the above mentioned because you will be stuck in the same place you are now.

Until you get to the point where the vehicle does not move out of the driveway I don't recommend replacing it. However if you are stuck with it being your family or commuter vehicle you should replace it so you're not stuck some where far from home with a larger problem.

From personal experience I can give you quick-fix to help the life of the transmission assuming you're reading this and already having issues.

- After reversing or starting off, shift in to second gear.

- Around thirty miles per hour left off the gas-peddle and shift in to drive. That should place you in to third where your problem is.

- At around forty to fifty miles per hour left off the gas-peddle and this will put you in to drive.

Keep in mind this method works from my experience and having it tested on other Ford Windstar's that have transmission issues but may not work for you. You can add 1/4 bottle of Lucas Stop Leak (the transmission shouldn't be leaking) to the transmission dipstick to coat the internal gears and stop a dry shift when you start driving in the morning. With this transmission the lubrication system is another reason they fail. But with the Lucas it should help. DO NOT OVER FILL THE TRANSMISSION or HAVE IT FLUSHED! This will be the end of the transmission if you are having problems with it now.