Fuel and Engines

No. You can remove the engine and leave the transmission in the vehicle.

Pull em off and put in new ones.

the lower compression of the marine pistons will alow you to cram more air and fuel into your motor, the disadvantages are harder starts in the cold and maybe some drivability issues.

== == Basically, the problem is often that, the choke being left "on" continually prevents the engine from starting because there is too much gas for the air being provided. (The choke control reduces the air being provided to burn with gas). On warm days, a two-cycle engine does not need to be choked very much. The cooler it is, the longer you need to leave the choke on. You need to prime the engine by pushing in on the plastic dome that you can see gas in. That sends gasoline into the fuel line. Five pumps or so is all you need. Be sure that the cut-off switch is turned to "run". Put the choke lever into "choke on" position.

Pull the start cord twice. That normally provides a good gas/air mixture to the cylinder. If the engine starts, put the choke lever back into the "choke off" position after a few seconds, and let the engine warm up. If it starts to sputter, put the choke back on for a few seconds more.

If it doesn't start, put the choke lever back in the "choke off" position. (Yes, even if the engine does not start).

Continue to pull the starter cord several more times. then put the choke lever back to "choke on" if it still won't start and start the cycle again.

Both of those fuel tanks are for the power unit. Rest assured of that. The reefer units will have a separate fuel tank for that unit, typically located under the chassis behind the cab.

Don't be fooled by the lack of a crossover between the two fuel tanks - the crossover system is obsolete, and no longer used. Both of those tanks feed the engine, still.

Depends on the brand, if so and how much(they hardly give the additives used). Zinc is an "anti wear agent" especially it's extreme pressure qualities which aid in reducing piston ring-to-cylinder bore wear at BDC and TDC. It also protections from oxidation/corrosion. Almost all diesels oils have it in them.

test the compression in all cylinder bores to rule out the valves or for novice home mech. take the cylinder head in to a machine shop to have a compression test done.

A bent valve will be noisy, each time it is hit by the cam it will bang, the cylinder will not burn fuel and you may even have burning oil.

You will most liklely have a MIL light and a code for emissions like O2 sensor and/or cylinder misfire because of the unburnt fuel making the cat hot, but it could also be an intake valve so you could have backfiring through the intake and rough running for sure.

iT IS THE CONTUMELIOUS OF THE IMPACT OF THE SPEED HYPERLINK(E=mc2) In the compact evaluational reason of the hole thing

Yes

An engine misfiring simply means that one or more of the cylinders are not compressing and/or igniting the fuel mix like it should. This could be because of a malfunctioning fuel injector, spark plug, it could also be that there is not enough compression in the cylinder to ignite properly, and it could also be an electrical malfunction virtually anywhere wlse in the electrical system.

the clutch in the fan is bad. you can spray wd 40 in the back of it but that's temporary. probably need another one.

well this depends if you want to keep the as close as original such as date codes matching your cars numbers , if that's the case then your job got a lot harder. if you want to put in a replacement engine then decide what size you want if your car is a true gtx it came from the factory that year with 3 choices the 440 4 bbl the 440 6 pack or the 426 hemi check the vin number the 5th digit in the vin will be a letter it will be either the letter R the letter U the letter V the other first 4 letters and numbers in the vin will be RS23 so anyway swapmeets sometimes turn up a good find junkyards might have one buried in it but they seem to be drying up on the older cars ,check the mopar webring online , or look for a old new yorker or imperial 60,s to 70,s the low deck 383 and 400 will also bolt into a big block car. they are out there you just got to dig a little.

1. Head gasket. 2. Hole in piston (no compression) or rings failure (low compression). 3. Burnt valves/badly adjusted valve clearances. 4. Cylinder head cracked. But before you rip the engine apart, try these: Head gasket, run the engine and brush some soapy water in the gap between the head and the barrel and look for bubbles, they will be big. Rings, take out the spark plug and check the compression. Squirt in some oil and re-check the compression. If the compression rises, it's rings. slacken the push rod adjustment/ remove rods so that valves do not open. Check the compression, if still low it's valve/ head failure.

This is actually fairly easy. I just did it myself, but for cylinder 2. You need to get a new cylinder which will cost about $50 from Schucks. While you're at it get 6 new spark plugs.

Pop off the black plastic cover (both parts of cover) under the hood that's held down by 5 or 6 hex screws. Under there you will find the 6 cylinders. They should be labeled, but if not they go from #1-6 working from left to right, if you are facing the engine.

Simply unscrew the bolt that holds down the #4 cylinder, disconnect the wiring, replace with your new one, change the spark plug and then put it back on. That's it. I went ahead and replaced all my spark plugs while I was there. Dont forget to disconnect the battery though....it's in the trunk.

Worked for me and now she runs like a champ again.

Good luck.

If no lights are coming on the dashboard and depending on the vibrations. Could be a motor mount.

A tachometer works by measuring how many time a spark plug fires. If the tachometer is designed to determine the rpm of an 8 cylinder engine it will not show the correct speed of a 2 cylinder engine. If I remember correctly if the tachometer designed for an 8 cylinder is used on a 4 cylinder engine it will show twice the number of actual rpm. So an 8 cylinder tachometer used on a 2 cylinder engine will show 4 times the actual rpm of the 2 cylinder engine. If you check around there are special tachometers designed for 2 cylinder engines.

this answer is out of the haynes code book. code 35 idle air control valve or cicuit. Or idle speed control switch or circuit(shorted). good luck

One tip on the Idle Air system on GM's - some need to have a special reset on that part to clear the code. On the 1980-1990's GM's the procedure was to drive the car at a speed exceeding 50 mph for a minimum of five minutes, continuous. You will need to make sure the car stays above 50 for the full five minutes. Make sure to find a nice stretch of open highway where the legal speed will let you do this. This will cause the computer to push the idle air system wide open, then fully closed, to check it over the whole range. After this you can clear the codes and the code should not come back.

If it does, cleaning of the intake may help, since dirt in the passages can affect this system also.

Weak fuel pump Bad fuel filter

It could be either the temperature control sensor to the computer, or the ambient air sensor.

Actually it rarely does.

With a scan tool.

"Oil Capacity” means the amount of oil required to fill your engine block to the recommended level of oil. You would only need to know this if you plan to change your own oil and the amount can be found in your cars owner’s manual.

kkisok

yeah it does