Fuel and Engines

Most diesel engines will have a 'glow' plug that gives of enough heat to help get the engine started. The heat generated from the first few revolutions together with the compression from the piston is enough to ensure the engine keeps running. Some modern diesel engines no longer require a glow plug.

# Remove air filter to give you more room to play # Loosen alternator and alternator tensioner. Alternator tensioner bolts to water pump so that bolt will need to come out. # With the alternator loose, the main drive belt should be loose and be able to be removed, do this. # Loosen the tensioner bolt for the air conditioner, on the underside of the engine. Losen the nut on the air conditioner tension wheel. The tensioner wheel should now slide up and down freely, allowing removal of the air conditioner belt. # Remove the 4 x 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the water pump pulley.

# Remove the 4 x 10mm bolts on the camshaft pulley. This is the main pulley that all the belts connect to. There is a large 17mm bolt in the middle of this pulley that does not need to be removed. (Crankshaft Bolt). # The camshaft pulley should slide off, however you will probably have no clearance (because of the crankshaft bolt) to remove the pulley. The pulley has to be removed.

# Place a jack under the sump, use a piece of wood to protect the sump. Jack the sump up 1/2 inch. Undo the two 14mm bolts in the engine mounts. When the two left hand engine mount bolts are out, lower the jack slowly until you can slide the camshaft pulley out.

# Remove the plastic timing belt cover. # You should now see the timing belt, remove the timing belt tensioner pulley, being careful not to move the timing belt wheels. # Undo the bolts holding the water pump. # Water pump should come off, water will come out if you haven't drained it. # Scrape off gasket. # Install new water pump. # Reassemble in reverse order.

26 KW

Yes, as the mixture would run lean and possible misfires could occur.

about 100/mo.

That would depend on the vehicle you drive and how many miles you drive.

yes you can swap the 454 for the 350 its compatible usually any Chevy engine will match in the same vehicle might have to do sum fabrication but in ur situation you should be fine

If your car is running too rich, the excess fuel will get past the rings and do what they call an oil wash on your cylinders washing the protective oil coating that helps seal the rings to the wall. The excess fuel does not get burned so it goes past the rings down into the bottom of the engine into the oil and this is how you get gas in your oil. I would get it fixed before your cylinder walls are badly scored and the rings won't seal anymore. You compression will drop and you are lookign at a bottom end rebuild answer if your vehicle is older model and has a mechanical fuel pump on engine block not newer model with electric which is usually in the tank the diaphragm can burst,crack,etc. and pump gas into your oil had it happen on an older model v8 ford truck before... Hope This Helps

Before going any further verify that none of the spark plug wires are old or damaged or located near the wire to the knock sensor. Wrapping them in aluminum foil can also eliminate this problem. If this doesn't help, follow normal diagnostic procedure.

according to my information a code 35 on 1993 gmc is an idle air control system problem/idle speed actuator.

You stop any engine by taking away fuel, air, or ignition. On a diesel it is usually easier to take away fuel.

to drain gasoline from a dirtbike, you can simply lay it on its side and the gasoline should pour out from the bottom

Defective gasket, poor installation, warped head, heat. Heat is the major cause.

first things first you must pull the oil pan then you can get to the bearigs you can get a set for about 70 dollars make sure that you have a tourque wrench so as to retourque the bolts then replace the oil pan and then you are set to go

I would recommend draining the entire fuel system and re-filling it with pure diesel. I do know some guys that add a gallon or two of gasoline to their diesel trucks, meaning big rig semi's, in the winter for easier starting, however their truck's fuel tanks have a 50 gallon capacity. Diesel is a lubricant as well as a fuel. Running gasoline, or a high mixture of gasoline WILL cause SERIOUS damage to a diesel engine. So my advice would be to get it out.

To add a different perspective, the Mercedes manual for the older Mercedes cars says you can safely run up to 30% regular gasoline mixed in your diesel fuel - mostly for winter, as stated above. Most diesels would be safe at near this level of mix. But at the ratios mentioned in the question looks like only a 15% mix. This should be safe, especially as a one time deal. As you run some out, just add more diesel when you can. Much better than wasting the 46 liters of fuel! Don't panic. Add a couple ounces of 2 stroke oil if it makes you feel better.

Choke defective/broken. Incorrect Oil Viscosity: too thick drags Starter. Use Synthetic Oil if not already using.

Tired Starter (actually Tired Solenoid).

Worn/Corroded Battery Leads to Starter and Ground.

Corrosion at Battery Terminals, specifically Positive.

Bad/Loose/Corroded Engine to Chassis Ground.

Worn Spark Plugs.

Worn Spark "Wires".

Possible defect in Crank Position Sensor or other Sensor(s).

Fault in Ignition System incorporates all above except Oil.

In addition you may have a partially clogged fuel filter or a weak fuel pump that is failing.

There is no required a/f ratio on a diesel. It can be as low as 100:1 at no load idle.

The fuel system for 94-95 PSD is slightly different from the 96-97 PSD. Here's a link to a 1996 Factory Repair Manual. The Haynes manual does not have enough coverage.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/96fman/stjmain.htm

This could be a few things, especially if the vehicle is idling too low. Check your PVC hose, particularly the elbows for wear and tear or any holes or collapsing. You can repair these temporarily by wiping them off well to remove dirt and wrapping in electrical tape until you are able to get the part replaced.

There are freeze plugs in the side of the block, the heads and in the back of the block between the motor and transmission. If it is one of the ones on the back of the block, either the engine or transmission has to be removed to get to them.

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For engines, it's great. For people, it's toxic. For the environment, it's horrible.

Again depending on age could be choke not working properly Could be a vacuum leak check connections depending on the car.

Ford did not produce a 460 in 1979.

In 1978 the firing order for a 460 is 1-5-4-6-6-3-7-8.

Ref: Chilton's Motor Manual 1981

5 quarts total 4 in the crank case and one in the oil filter.

could be a couple of problems. check idle control sensor or egr valve. good luck

IAC idler control valve.