Grand Am GT

There is no clutch adjustment, it is all hydraulic. 1st thing to check is the clutch fluid which is tucked away under the driver side of the car near the firewall. On mine it was leaking fluid slowly and had gotten low. I went a while just putting fluid into it and would work fine for a while. One day I had no fluid and could not get it in gear and was late for work. I made the mistake of assuming that one type of hydraulic fluid is about the same as another and put in some transmission stop leak. Big mistake- this quickly swelled my cap rubber to where could not get the lid back on and then caused my master cylinder to totally fail. I replaced the master cyclinder, the slave cylinder seems to be inside the transmission so did not replace it, but blead as much fluid out as I could and replaced with real brake fluid. Then blead as much air out as I could, the only place to bleed I have found so far is near the master cylinder I need to be able to bleed it near the slave. Anyway since then I have been fighting it, in cold weather or wet weather will not release, when it warms up I am fine. I hope someone can shed some light on how to replace the slave cylinder and or if there is access to another location to bleed the air out.

check to see if your security light is on i had the same problem (they all do ) put your key in the "on " postition and leave it for 10 minutes until the security light flashes off and then start your engine.

Had same issue with my 97 riv. turns out the E brake was on the whole time regardless of the pedal position. Check the brake cable just behind the driver door edge for damage. Mine had about 1 inch of sleeve missing which caused the brake to stick on. To temporarily fix it just pull the sleeve back to where it should rest. could also be a problem with the switch on the e-brake pedal as well

This may sound weird but check your wiper switch.

I had the same thing happen in my toyota, the intermittent wipers quit working but the relay would still click like blinkers do, after searching all around I bumped the wiper switch by accident and the noise quit. Living in Nevada I use the wipers about once a year so I never noticed that the intermittent part had quit.

If that is not it is is still some relay clicking on and off so track down the noise and find out what it contriols.

To change the headlight on a 1999 Grand Am, lift the hood, look for the two sheet metal tabs located above or next too the headlight adjuster screws. These are like an inverted "L". Pull up on them and the headlight assy will pull straight out the front. You can pull up on these with your fingers, but if too tight it may take a pair of pliers. When unscrewing the plastic collar off of the bulb, use care. The internal tabs break off easily. The bulb socket has a latch on the side, then the bulb will pull out.

the fluid is a lube it soaks the pully makes the belt slip off. now as far as the leak you need to look around the fitings while the truck is running look at all the hoses you may have a hose that has a hole it it make sure the hoses are not rubbinr on any thing.

160

i had Pontiac 1994. Toremove two inner bolts i took radiator vent. To access outer bolt i took out a battery, air filter completed with a part of air intake.And i used mirror

I just personally changed my oil the other day. It took five liters. That's for the base model, anyway.

if crancking over at usual speed check if fuel pump primes when ign is first switched on if you can hear it do usual checks for fuel at injectors check for spark at plugs

if the miles on the engine aren't too high, then just replace the head gaskets. if the whole engine is tired go ahead and swap out the motor. its a lot cheaper to do the gaskets then to buy a new motor.

Pull one or both straps located in the trunk top center. This will disengage the latches for the seats.

Honestly dude...Your looking at about 700.00 to send it off to a shop. They are NOT cheap. I've been down this road twice. Once my wife hit a raccoon and the last time she rear ended someone. Im doing it myself this time. It will cost me about half the price. Hope this helps)

If your oil light came on, your engine is probably toast by now- a severe drop in oil pressure is required to turn that light on, and once that light comes on that means your engine was already running dry- chewing up the bearings and parts. Either that or you may have a faulty sensor and/or wiring to the sensor. If you think your engine had oil try replacing the sensor and cleaning the contacts. Rule #1 when it comes to any type of vehicle- if your oil light comes on, no matter where you are, no matter at what speed you're travelling - 60MPH on the freeway or parked at a red light- shut your engine off IMMEDIATELY if you're sure it won't cause a collision. Coast if you have to in neutral to an appropriate place to park but NEVER run your engine with that light on- it means $$$$ in severely costly and time consuming repairs ahead if you do. Hope this helps. By fixing the problem that has caused the light to come on. The light is on because you have low oil pressure. Low oil level, bad pump, incorrect or defective filter, or bad oil sending unit are causes.

I had a little problem with this at one time but you need to go buy a special wire harness for ur radio...its called a data retention harness it it'll run probably aroung 50 bucks. But what that does is that you have to still have ur old radio hooked up but theres another wire that ataches to it so you can put it in the trunk or mount it somewhere out of the way.its actually really simple to install once you get the wires. I've never actually installed a new stereo in a grand am (I have a 2003) but I've installed many in other cars, usually the best place to go is Best Buy or Circuit City and you can look up the exact make and model of your car then it tells you the exact kit and harness you need. I don't know about a data retention harness but the guys at Best Buy are always helpful and if it comes down to it they'll install in for a fee. It's not anything crazy.

between 130-140 ks

The cylinders at the back of the engine are numbered 1-3-5 left to right and 2-4-6 left to right at the front. The wires at the coil are connected to cylinders 1-4-6-3-2-5 also left to right. Match 'em up.

you need to unbolt the front plate of the dash ,, then theres a cover on the heater core , that needs to be removed , then the heater core is bolted up there and , should come right out after unclamping hose ( located on the outer firewall-- under the steering rack, . kinda tricky to get back into position but it can be done . after back in , just re-install all plates and covers -DONE

You have to drill the rivets on the motor separating it from the regulator. The new motor then mounts to the regulator and you insert the new bolts where the riverts were.

Remove existing one and match it up at auto parts store

To disable a kill switch the wiring would have to be modified to bypass the switch. This is not advisable as the switch is a safety feature.

There are two belts on the 99-04 chev tracker. One is the large serpentine belt which drives the coolant pump, power steering etc. and the other is the small belt which drives the radiator fan. I'm assuming you mean the serpentine belt. Firstly, the belt tensioner on my 2000 2.0L tracker is spring loaded and as far as I can tell, shouldn't need to be adjusted. I had a problem with my tensioner as I live in a northern climate where they salt roads in winter time. The salt worked its way into the tensioner causing the spring to seize and once the belt stretched over time. it became quite loose. Apparently this is a common problem, not just with salt, but also moisture causing the spring to rust and stick. To change the tensioner, first tremove the serpentine belt. There are two bolts, one just below and to the right of the power steering pump, and the other to the right of the alternator. Remove these and replace tensioner. Look in wrecking yards for another tensioner if you wish to save money as the part was $180 Cdn at my local NAPA store and $40 from a junk yard. Don't throw out your old tensioner as it is still usable. Fill a large empty coffee tin with vegetable oil or sewing machine oil (not motor oil, or used oil) and put the old tensioner in there. Leave it sit and soak in oil until the new tensioner seizes. I have the NAPA tensioner on my tracker now, and the original and the junk yard tensioner in oil in by basement for spares. Hope this helps!

This is located within the rear drivers side tire. Please apply steak knife to outer rim of tire. Not in the tread!!!

You can't. The days of doing tape measure alignments are long gone. It requires a machine with a built in computer. Costs around $65.00.

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no, it doesen't you have to break the tranny loose from the block if you need tranny fliud... but their should be no reason to be needing it.... i suggest taking it to the dealer if you have issues no, it doesen't you have to break the tranny loose from the block if you need tranny fliud... but their should be no reason to be needing it.... i suggest taking it to the dealer if you have issues no, it doesen't you have to break the tranny loose from the block if you need tranny fliud... but their should be no reason to be needing it.... i suggest taking it to the dealer if you have issues no, it doesen't you have to break the tranny loose from the block if you need tranny fliud... but their should be no reason to be needing it.... i suggest taking it to the dealer if you have issues