Grand Am GT

It may or may not have a dipstick, and probably does not. There is a plug located on the top side of the transmission. Remove this plug and if you can touch lube, it is full. Add lube until it runs out the fill hole. Be sure and use the proper lube as outlined in your owner's manual.

It may or may not have a dipstick, and probably does not. There is a plug located on the top side of the transmission. Remove this plug and if you can touch lube, it is full. Add lube until it runs out the fill hole. Be sure and use the proper lube as outlined in your owner's manual.

If the car has been sitting for sometime you may have carbon lock. Assuming the battery and the starter are good, you need to remove the spark plugs and squirt ALOT of WD-40 into the rotor housings. Let it soak for a few hours, then with the car in 4th gear, FIRMLY rock the car back and fourth to see if the engine budges at all.

As a safety precaution you should unplug the MAF sensor (the big plug going into the side of the airbox) while doing the following. Unplugging this sensor cuts the power to the fuel pump so no fuel will be in the engine.

If you can get the engine to move ( pulleys will turn as the car rolls), then try the starter again ( no spark plugs). You may only get incremental movement at first, so repeat the above steps until the engine spins freely. Then reinstall the plugs, reconnect the MAF, and give it a try at starting. You will get a lot of smoke from the wd-40 at start up, but that will clear.

If the the wd-40 doesn't unbudge the engine, you can try pouring Automatic Transmission fluidinto the plug holes and letting it sit overnight or longer, and doing the same thing as above.

Good luck!

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The engine has a rev limiter while the transmission is in neutral. It will rev to higher rpm's when the transmission is in gear.

LOL, Its allready too late. Can be dangerous too. Myabe another 5 miles. Maybe 50. They can lock on you or you can have unpredictable handling.

Foglights by nature are very diffuse and don't require a real exacting aiming....but do so by either using the mounting bolts you see or even just bending the bracket they attach with a bit.

I had same problem. Bought a used distributor from a boneyard and it fired right up.

Start trying to isolate the problem. Find out whether it's getting fuel and spark. Narrow it down a little at a time until you find the problem, THEN replace the part. Don't just throw parts at it.

Yes.

== == == == you don't it's molded int to the bumper.

The thermostat is located on the right side of the engine looking in, in between the intake manifold and the air filter box, underneath the wiring. This is in a 1994 Ford Probe GT 6 cylinder

An injector is probably sticking and causing "wash down". Gasoline can then leak past the cylinder walls and get into the oil. That much fuel in the cylinder will make it impossible to start the engine. I'd also check the fuel pressure regulator

Are you sure you need to reset it? I thought I needed to reset my 97 Pontiac Grand Prix...I kept having to disconnect and reconnect the wire harness under the ignition every time I wanted to start the car. I tried resetting the anti-theft system by turning the key to the "ON" position (just before the start position---in the "ON" position, the dashboard lights come on) and keeping it in the "ON" position for eleven minutes. Even after "resetting" it, I still had to disconnect and reconnect the wire harness in order to start it. After reading up on more possible solutions, including disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, I decided to get a better look under the dashboard, below the steering wheel. After removing the lower dashboard cover under the steering wheel, I noticed a shiny black wire, a little thicker than the other wires. It was just dangling there behind the cover. At the loose end of this wire there was a little black button. After finding out more about this button, I tried pressing it and holding it while I tried to start the car. The car started up right away. I took the key out of the ignition, waited about fifteen minutes just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I held the button again, and again, the car started up with no problem.the button had been mounted to the cover through the dash cover I had removed, but it wasn't visible until I got under the dashboard. I redirected this wire through a hole in the metal housing under the steering wheel column - a hole that I was only able to see once I had removed the lower dashboard cover. Then I drilled a compatible sized hole through the lower dashboard cover, just under and left of the steering column, that aligned with my new location for the thick black button wire. This made the button much easier to reach. Now I only have to reach just to the left of the steering column to hold the button when I start the car. I hope this can help anyone who is having a similar problem. All the other "solutions" I found on the web were possibilities that didn't solve my problem, although they still may merit an attempt if this doesn't work for you.

I was not aware that headgaskets were repairable. I have always replaced them with new gaskets. If you mean who replaces headgaskets, then that would be an engine mechanic.

Try turning key to "on" position without starting vehicle Depress accelerator to the floor 6 times Turn key off On my 2000 Grand Am GT , there is a panel on the drivers left side of the dashboard where some of the fuses are located. Take off the panel door and there is a button that is pushed to reset the oil light. It is supposed to be reset every time the oil is changed.

Is it too full? Well some vehicles are equiped with a little hose that will let coolant out if there is too much or too much pressure, but not all vehicles will have it. (If you are talking about the overflow tank, if the radiator cap is leaking, check to see if the cap is in good condition)

just make sure your block isn't cracked

Since you're checking the resistor, I would assume you checked the fuse/relay for the blower motor. If not check that. If you have then there would be an open wire between the relay and the resistor.

Most likely it means your oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. However, there are a couple of other reasons why. It is common for the Check Engine Soon Light to come on if you have recently filled up with gas and did not tighten the gas cap enough. Or, the gas cap is bad, allowing air to seep by. Check your gas cap first. If the check engine soon light does not go out by 4-5 trips, go to an autoparts store that will check the code for you.

under the exoust man, just befor the water pump. tight fit and causes a lot of problems because of the heat in that area

The canister itself probably needs to be replaced. The canister can become loaded with fuel over time, causing excessive fuel vapors to be sucked into the fuel delivery system.

battery may be dying and altenater may be going out

Pictures and description http://www.cardomain.com/ride/299921/2

It is worn and needs to be replaced. It is collapsing when the water pump draws coolant.