Grand Am GT

If your wipers activate when you input a left signal, it could indicate a short circuit or faulty relay in the vehicle's electrical system. Start by checking the wiring and connections for any signs of damage or corrosion. Inspect the turn signal and wiper switch for malfunction, and consider replacing them if necessary. If the issue persists, consulting a professional mechanic may be the best option for a thorough diagnosis.

Yes, you can disable the warning chime on a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am by locating the chime module, which is typically found under the dashboard. You can either disconnect the module or remove the specific wire that triggers the chime when the door is opened with the key in the ignition. However, be cautious as this may affect other warning sounds in the vehicle. Always consult your owner's manual or a professional mechanic for guidance.

No, a 5x127 bolt pattern is not the same as a 5x115 bolt pattern. The first number indicates the number of bolts (5), while the second number represents the bolt circle diameter in millimeters. Since 127 mm and 115 mm are different measurements, the two patterns are incompatible with each other.

Ah, the thermostat on a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT is located under the hood, near the front of the engine. You'll find it nestled snugly between the engine and the radiator, regulating the temperature like a gentle conductor leading an orchestra. Just remember to handle it with care, like you would a delicate brush on a canvas, and your car will hum along beautifully.

Oh, dude, you're hitting me with some car talk now? Okay, so technically, 5x114.3 bolt pattern is not the same as 5x4.75 bolt pattern. The first one is in millimeters, and the second one is in inches. But like, they're pretty close, so you might be able to get away with using one instead of the other if you're feeling adventurous.

The motor mounts on a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am are typically located on both sides of the engine block, securing the engine to the vehicle's frame. There are usually two motor mounts on each side of the engine, one towards the front and one towards the rear. These mounts are essential for reducing vibrations and ensuring proper alignment and stability of the engine within the vehicle.

Find where all your sparkplug wires lead to, one side of the wire will end up connecting to the sparkplug in the engine block, the other side will lead to a distributor or ignition coil pack, eather will indicate the cylinder the wire is hooked up to.

I believe it's something like 20 city. Not sure about HWY, maybe 32?

Anti means against and ante means before. Over time the words have merged and used both ways.

If the knob on your 2004 Ford Focus's AC system is not turning on the air conditioning, it could be due to a faulty switch, a blown fuse, a defective compressor, or low refrigerant levels. It's best to have a qualified mechanic diagnose and repair the issue to restore proper functionality.

I did some online research on your question. I found some useful info on your states official Dept. of Transportation site. What I found is here: http://www.legis.state.wi.us/Statutes/Stat0347.pdf

my grand am had an engine knocking noise. it was the intake manifold gasket was going bad. it was leaking coolant into my oil. look at your oil to see if it is a white milky color. if it is then you need a new manifold gasket which sucks. it takes a long time to do by yourself. or you can take it to a place that charges you $1000 to do. but if you can. do it yourself

The Direct Clutch Speed Sensor is on top of the transmission (in front of the driver) and secured by a 12mm bolt to the transmission casing. It looks like a vertical black tube with an arm that extends toward the driver with the bolt at the end. The top of the tube has a black connector plugged onto it with two wires that join a major wiring harness a few inches away.

best to read up... Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at your local library, just make copies of the right pages, as they are usually REFERENCE only...read up and good luck :)

It could be the timing belt jumps (wrong timing spark) or the faulty pressure regulator (to much fuel ro to little)

first i would check your coil, if its good, check your ignition switch.

[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

Push volume knob? Yeah, you would think, but this radio doesn't have a push button and it doesn't "turn" on either...any other suggestions? thx :)

i just had one replaced last week in a 96 model explorer, the starter was 160 and with labor it was about 250.00. or if you do it yourself you can get a good used starter or maybe a new starter off eBay for 50.00 maybe a little more or less, Jesse

The knob you pull out is attached to the switch. To get the switch out, you will have to remove the panel underneath the dash, and some of the HVAC ductwork that runs underneath. Disconnect the battery. On the back of the switch, under the dash, there will be a little button you will have to push in to get the switch's shaft & knob to release from the switch. After that is done, you will be able to pull off the trim going around the face of the dash. It should just snap on. Then there will be a nut holding the switch to the dash. Remove the nut, the switch will come out the back, and then you can unplug it. Replace in reverse of these directions, only leave the swith shaft/knob for last. It will just push back into the new switch.

i have 89 gle it was doing the same thing , and it was the fuel injetor relay (black 1 undre the hood) I have a 1991 740 which suffers from no start when hot (engine turns fine). Apparently, and this is from a Volvo trained mechanic I'd trust with my life, the fault in these earlier models lies with the fuel pump relay (which he's replacing in a few days). The relay lies behind and slightly above the fuses which are accessed from behind the ashtray, and in an emergency may respond by being tapped a couple of times. Otherwise wait for around 20 minutes and try again.

The car won't start because of the security system. The security system will either have to be bypassed (there are kits available on Ebay sometimes and there are some websites that have them too) or replaced. The ignition key has a built in resistor that the security system checks when you try to start the car. If the security system doesn't recognize the resistance of the key it won't start the car. Then you have to wait 2 to 10 minutes before it will start ( sometimes it's a lot longer than 10 minutes). You could try getting a replacement key and see if the security system recognizes it better. GM installed security systems in their vehicles that are called Passkey I, II and III. So if you get a kit you have to know which system is in your vehicle.

One thing I would check first: The fuel filter could be partially blocked and you could have sediment that gets stirred up when you start the engine further blocking the filter. After it sets for a while enough of the sediment could move out of the way to allow a small amount of fuel to get past. If that isn't the case, check to see if there is any spark after the engine starts and then fails to start again. Pull one of the sparkplug wires and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the sparkplug on a part of the engine that is solid metal and is well grounded. It doesn't even need to be a sparkplug that fits the car. Have a friend attempt to start the engine and watch the sparkplug for signs of a good hot spark. If the engine won't run and you have no spark, you probably have a bad component or connection. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose. Get back to me if you can't find out what's wrong and I'll see if I can help you figure out what to check next. a_d_kirkwood@excite.com It is also possible that you might have vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body or between the intake manifold and the engine

Out of balance tires, worn out tires, (tread separating, etc), bad tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, etc.

your tires need to be ballaced

The EXACT same thing just happened with my car. It would shake at higher speeds, but especially when the brakes were hot after driving for a few minutes. I took my car to the shop yesterday and they diagnosed it as a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is not releasing as it should, therefore making the brakes drag. The technician said he could barely turn the rotor it was so bad. He also said I will get much better gas mileage once it's fixed!

What happens basically is that the brakes stick, causing severe shaking and vibration in the steering wheel. I also felt it in the brake pedal when slowing down from high speeds. It felt exactly like a flat tire. It's basically like having one brake partially on while you are driving. It's very important to have this repaired ASAP as it puts wear on other parts of your car (esp. suspension parts: bearings, tie-rods, etc.). If you continue to drive with a sticking caliper it will eventually cause more damage.

These are the parts that need replacing on my car: calipers, brake pads, and possibly rotors. Sometimes the rotors can be resurfaced if they are not worn down too thin or warped. It is best to replace both driver and passenger side parts even if only one side is bad. If you only do one side, it will cause the car to pull to the opposite side, during braking causing it to wear down fast. You will soon need to replace the other side anyhow. Best to do them both at the same time so they will wear evenly and not cause unequal wear on either side.

But before you bring it into the shop, check your lug nuts to be sure they are not loose. Good luck!

Won't turn over?

1-Bad starter

2-No power to starter: discharged battery, bad battery or loose connection

3-No signal to starter: bad ignition switch or starter relay or blown fuse or security

4-Engine stuck: Belt driven accessory problem (remove belts) or hydraulic lock (remove spark plugs) or seized engine or transmission problem