0
Grand Am GT
The Grand Am GT was a rebadged fourth-generation model of the Pontiac Grand Am manufactured by General Motors from 1992 to 1995. The car featured a 3.3-liter Buick V6 engine, and a five-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission.
1,619 Questions
== == The lock solenoid switch is not working properly to retract the lock arm in the trunk.
Tach signal wire location on a 2003 grand am 3.4L?
Tach signal wire is located at the PCM near the connector. Use the manual should there be need for help in locating it.
1986 iroc 305 5.0 that wont shift into 3rd what could be wrong?
low line pressure. take it to a transmission shop have the system flushed.(cooler, lines, transmission) new filter and fluid. tranny shop may also recommend a rebuild/replacement.
What does it mean when overflow tank empties itself?
It means that you have a coolant leak. You need to have the system pressure tested for leaks.
Why is your 2002 trailblazer stalling at stop signs?
The throttle body needs to be cleaned. The only way to do this is to remove it and clean both sides of the butterfly.
For a complete "how to" on this and lots of other stuff join our enthusiasts forum at www.trailvoy.com
What is the best oil for a car?
I've been using castrol syntec 5w-20 in my vw golf tdi, it's thin as water but i get 10k miles between oil changes, I've used it since it came out and before that castrol gtx!
I've never had an oil related problem with any of my vehicles. i had an 83 Chevy blazer, i never changed the oil in 10 years and it was still clean, i only drove several hundred miles a year, as it quit snowing here in south central Pa. I saved a ton of money on oil and filter changes! i usually change the oil every 5k miles on my gas vehicles, most are easy to change, just buy a drain pan and a filter wrench and oil plug wrench, the money you save from going to jiffy lube will pay for the synthetic oil and you know you are actually getting the oil you pay for! the thin oil disipates the excess heat better and you have less pumping friction and better gas mileage. :)
If the main and/or rod bearings are worn, the oil pressure can't be maintained after the oil warms up and thins out. You might be able to get a little more life out of the engine by switching to a heavier weight engine oil.
It is possible also that just the oil pump has worn and can't produce enough pressure at idle. Very often, though, if the pump is worn, so are the bearings, and vice-versa.
The Emergency Brake is probably adjusted too tight.
signed: anonymous
--------------------------
-
-
Well, that could be the case if the wheels don't turn at all. If they only lock up when you apply the brake, it's more likely that the star wheel is what's slightly too tight.
-
Every time you press the brake pedal, the star wheel assembly in the drums (which the '92 has) automatically adjusts itself (turns out on a bolt). Over time as the brake shoes wear away, this extending bolt pushes the shoes farther and farther out to make sure they stay close enough to the drum to stop the car.
-
When you do a brake job and put new shoes on, you have to remember to screw this bolt back in, otherwise they're now too close to the drum.
-
Keep in mind its normal for them to grab slightly until the new shoes set in. If its not too bad it may return to normal within a day. If not, or when you press the brake the back wheels lock up way before the front grabs, or even if you're just not comfortable driving the car, take the car back to the shop and get them to loosen the back brakes a bit.
-
If you do your own work and are comfortable doing your brakes, there is a plug you can remove on the backing plate and get in with a screwdriver to turn the star wheel while the drum is on. Don't do this yourself unless you're experienced or have the help of a pro. Your brakes are too important.
-
signed: ukeduke
---------------------
How do you do a burnout in a 2002 grand prix gt?
If the car has traction control you must disengage it first, then if you are doing a stand still burnout engage the parking brake provided that they work. If you are doing this from a traffic light and plan to proceed down the road disengage the t/c and then hope that your car has enough juice to spin the tires
How do you replace the serpentine belt on a Pontiac Grand Am?
Ok, here goes. First, buy, rent, or pay the deposit on the parts store's loaner long-handled serpentine belt tool. It has skinny sockets that you will need to replace the tensioner. Bite the bullet and get the tool. Also--bite another bullet and buy the tensioner when you buy the belt. Get the best quality belt and tensioner you can get: this is NO time or place to go cheap.
If your serpentine belt BROKE, you likely have a greater problem than a worn belt. Before going to the parts store, check to see if the water pump or AC compressor is frozen up. Buy parts accordingly. The forces involved in breaking the belt will also tear the pulley on the tensioner to pieces. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner pre-emptively. That's why you bought it when you bought the belt, so do it now.
Now, grit your teeth and accept the fact that you have to remove all the moter mount stuff. You'll have to support the engine (with a jack on a 2x4 to spread the weight) from underneath. You'll remove the 3 nuts (don't lose the blind bolt under the 3rd nut) on the top of the black stamped steel bracket, the two bolts in the passenger side fender well that hold the bottom of the 2nd stamped steel bracket, the two bolts holding the heavy duty silver bracket, and the three bolts holding the heavy black cast bracket to the underside of the heavy silver bracket.
You will find that getting the 3/8" drive of a ratchet into the slight space offered by GM at the tensioner may be impossible. However, there is a 19mm flat-sided boss on the tensioner facing the front of the car. You can get a 19mm open end wrench, or a Crescent wrench, onto that boss and lift forcefully to turn the tensioner. Turn counterclockwise, as viewed from the passenger side, to loosen the belt. I would still opt to get the serpentine installation tool set from the parts store. (I also went ahead and made a 3/8" tool with more offset than the store-bought one. If you have welding capability, it's worth it to have the home-made tool.)
Since you have removed all the motor mount stuff removed already, this is the time to remove and replace the tensioner. Just do it. A good new one (a Dayco brand tensioner) is about 50 bucks at a parts store. By now you'd pay three times that not ot have to do this job again. So just do it. Considering the work you are going through to do all this on your day off, replacing the tensioner as a preventative measure is well worth it. You need skinny hands to get the bolt started, but it can be done without too much grief. Put some Never-Seize on the bolt threads before installation. Note that you have to engage the pin on the tensioner into the hole in the engine timing gear cover before tightening down the bolt. Use the NEW BOLT that will come with the tensioner: it's different than GM's.
You already have removed the black stamped steel brackets that were attached to the fender, right? And you have also removed the heavy silver one that has the three big bolts (15 mm heads, two toward the back and one toward the front) and one empty hole at the front of the silver piece. You have replaced the tensioner because you do not want to go through this again next Spring. To install the new belt, you must LOOSEN the three bolts on the heavy and thick black cast and forged bracket that is attached to the engine. They are low and toward the front. This heavy forged thick bracket was attached to the thick silver piece with the three heavy bolts, and it is the black piece that prevents you from simply installing the belt around the power steering pump pulley. (BTW, removng the power steering pump won't help you--you have to get the belt around the black bracket.) By LOOSENING the three bolts in the heavy black bracket, you can just barely cause a gap at the rearmost heavy bolt location between the stamped steel engine mount boss and the heavy black bracket that will just barely allow you to slip in the belt. You may need to do a little gentle levering, but don't break anything. Note that I said LOOSEN--if you remove the three bolts you'll have coolant all over the place. Even so, you may have to remove the upper one completely to get enough of a gap at the rear for the belt to go through.
Once the belt is "through the loop" of the heavy black bracket, be sure you also get it around (over) the power steering pully, under the water pump pulley, and headed down toward the AC pulley. Tighten the three bolts that you just loosened, and thread the belt on to the pulleys. It goes (ribbed side) back around the alternator, down and around the crank pulley (ribbed side), up and around the tensioner (smooth side), down and around the AC pulley (ribbed side), up and around the water pump pulley (smooth side), over the power steering pump pulley (ribbed side) and rearward to the alternator (ribbed side.) Whew! You'll quickly find that it won't voluntarilty go over the alternator pulley unless you relieve the tensioner. Use the tool you rented or bought or made to relieve the tensioner (see above), slip the belt over the alternator pulley (ribbed side), and then ease up on your death grip on the tensioner tool to allow the belt to tighten itself.
CHECK ALL THE PULLEYS to be SURE the ribbed surface is centered on each ribbed pulley!! Misalignment will break the belt in a hurry, and then you can do this delightful task all over again.
Ok, that was all easy. You started at 10:00 thismorning and now it's 8:30 tonight. Now it's time to reassemble this beast. Whether today or tomorrow is up to you.
You will find that dealing with the motor mount pieces is a challenge, especially in re-assembly. The one and only nice thing GM did for you is to have provided that 4th hole (the empty one) in the silver bracket--it allows you to pry and wiggle the motor mount pieces into alignment. Be prepared to adjust the engine up, down, front, and back a lot. With patience and some jockeying around, it all bolts together in reverse of disassembly.
Check for tools and anything you may have forgotten to tighten. The only left over part should be the original GM tensioner attachment bolt and the old tensioner, both of which you replaced with the new tensioner. Check coolant level. and Voila !!
AnswerNear the top of the belt is a spring-loaded belt tensioner with a pulley attached to it. Using the proper wrench, pry it back and the tension will relax so you will easily remove the belt. Look at how the belt travels across the pulleys first so you know how to put the new belt on.How do you start a seagull engine that wont start Am i doing somthing wrong?
Don't know if you're doing something wrong - you haven't said what you're doing or what model British Seagull engine that you have.
Be sure to try starting the engine in a tub of water.
Be sure your fuel mixture is correct (see any of the British Seagull sites for correct mixture for your model).
Be sure you have the right amount and right weight oil in the gear box.
Be sure the spark plug is the right one and is properly gapped.
After all that, either in a tub/tank of water or on the boat (and my British Seagull is a FeatherWeight 40, and therefore doesn't have a clutch or neutral - so the boat must be facing the direction I want to go...the minute the engine starts):
1) Open the brass part of the gas cap 1/2 turn (the bottom part of the gas cap remains firmly in place);
2) Reach around the back of the engine and pull out the brass fuel flow button (I think it says "Pull out" or something equally instructive);
3) Close the throttle (that thin slice of metal near what appears to be a muffler);
4) Find the little round button that pushes up and down and push it until gas drips from the fuel line (unfortunately, it drips into the water - not environmentally conscious);
5) Put the speed controller button (usually controlled by your thumb) all the way open
6) Wrap the starter cord around the pulley in the direction the arrows point;
7) Take your hand off the pulley - maybe rest it on the gas tank. When the engine starts, the pulley rotates rapidly and can cut or burn your hand if it is in the wrong place.
8) Pull the starter cord. Pull it again if it doesn't start.
9) If it continues not to start, try opening the throttle (the thin piece of metal near the muffler); and or let the engine rest before trying again. It may be flooded.
10) If it still doesn't start, take it to someone to be tuned up. There's a lot of old guys around who know about this engine and may be able to help.
11) If it still doesn't start - hey, its a British Seagull engine and has vowed to drive you crazy.
What is the bolt pattern for a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am?
If its the 2001 model it should be 5x115, pattern is different prior to that year. Hope this info helps!
Why won't my Vt commodore start will turn over but won't start?
Its likely it could be your crank angle sensor. take it to the mechanic and get it scanned. the problem should show up
Where is the water pump for 95 grand am V6?
On the front left of the engine beside the coolant bottle..Belt driven but on the smooth side not the grooved (of the belt).
On a 2000 Grand Am how do you replace the plastic clips that hold the regulator to the window?
You can't! I know it sucks but you have to replace the entire regulator assembly. Actually, it depends on which plastic clips you're trying to replace. True that the plastic slides are only available as part of the regulator, but the plastic glass channels are available separately from various sources, including Advance Auto's "Help!" section. The adhesive to attach is another matter, however. GM sells individual use vials at incredible prices that typically aren't in stock and are available only in box quantities, if special ordered. Check glass/windshield replacement stores, or NAPA sells a eurothane adhesive that has so far worked for me. Not exactly inexpensive, but doable. Be sure to buy the primer that goes with it, strength only a fraction without it!
What is wrong if a 2004 Trail Blazer won't start with the key but will with the remote start?
Your standard security system is not allowing for your car to be started. My trailblazer did it, and i had to reset the computer codes, then have the company that installed the alarm come back and replace a faulty bypass. This may be what you are incurring
How do you remove the cam cover on a '97 Grand Am Gt 2.4L Twin Cam?
It's not as easy as it should be - you have to remove all of the obvious stuff to gain access to the cover from the top. Remove serpentine belt. Jack up passenger front wheel, secure with jack stands. Remove the splash shield to gain access to the crank pulley, remove that pulley, loosen all of the timing cover bolts. Put the crank pulley retaining bolt back on crank and use it to rotate engine to top dead center (align little dots on crank and case). Then mark the chain where it meets the two cam sprockets, remove the chain tensioner (lower on the engine, near the crank). Next, remove the two cam sprockets from the cams. Then the trick is to remove all the bolts in the face of the timing cover that hold it to the block plus loosen the nuts that hold the water pump (under the exhaust manifold) to the timing cover. Don't remove the nuts entirely or you'll have trouble getting them started again (at least the one nearest the engine block). With the water pump loose enough, you should have enough clearance to get the cam cover off the top of the cam housing. You can do all of this without removing any of the engine mounts, but you will have to work with the timing cover to find just the position that it will go up over the mount and allow you to work inside the timing chain housing. I'd recommend getting a Chilton's manual - what I've stated is not working line for line from that book, but what I've figured out by using that book as a reference and doing a bit of experimenting.
94 sentra thermostat location?
It is on the passenger side, just above the belts. It is back towards the fire wall, and the housing makes an elbow. It has three bolts holding the front housing to the rear.
Why does your car turn off when turning?
you are having an idle problem man , when you turn the power steering pump takes place from engine idling power
second sugestion , if you are about running out of fuel , means only 10 or less liters reman , it the guy may not reach the fuel during turning and it sucks air so it stall or turn off
listen while in park turn steering wheel to the end of the right or left and see , if it stalls its an idle problems , if it stalls on curvy roads and hard turnings so you may have a fuel missing due to the above mentioned.
How do you replace the license plate bulb on a 1999 Mercedes E320?
If you just need to replace the bulb(s), open the trunk lid and remove part of the felt liner. There are platic pins that can be easily taken out to do this. The bulb(s) can be accessed from behind the trunk lid. They are very inexpensive under $2); so you may want to change them both. The bulbs are bayonnet style and look like fuses; easily unclipped and replaced.
oddly, you can NOT do change the bulb(s) by loosening the 3 screws above the license plate that appear to hold the bulbs' lenses in place. It must be done from inside the trunk as described above.
How much does it typically cost to replace a starter in a 2004 Toyota matrix?
I was just quoted in the S.F. East Bay Area $375.00 parts and labor. Kragen has the rebuilt starter needed for $100.00. The shop manual looks almost too easy. I think the description and pics are without ANY thing in your way and that seems impossible knowing how tight a fit that engine is.
Good Luck!
G
