Grand Am GT

Instructions depend on the engine size...if this does not cover what you have please email me and I will send you the right engine size directions. 2.0L Engine # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a clean container for reuse. # Remove the timing belt. # Unfasten and remove the timing belt rear protective covers. # Detach the hose from the water pump. # Unfasten the water pump attaching bolts, then remove the water pump and seal ring. Fig. 1: View of the water pump mounting and O-ring-2.0L engine

To install:

# Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. # Using a new sealing ring, install the water pump to the engine and hand-tighten the retaining bolts. # Attach the hose to the water pump. # Fasten the timing belt rear protective covers, then install the timing belt and properly adjust the tension. # Tighten the water pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). # Install the timing belt cover and related parts. # Connect the negative battery cable. # Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for leaks and top-off the coolant. 2.3L Engine

See Figure 2 # Disconnect the negative battery cable # Detach the oxygen sensor connector. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain. # Remove upper and lower exhaust manifold heat shields. # Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold. # Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench. # Raise and safely support the vehicle. It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed. # Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows: ## Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns. ## Remove the other bolt. ## Remove the first bolt. # Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts. # Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. # Carefully lower the vehicle. # Remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets. # Loosen and reposition the rear engine mount and bracket for clearance, as required. # Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover assembly, then separate the two pieces. Fig. 2: View of the water (coolant) pump mounting-1994 2.3L engine shown

To install:

# Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight. # Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight. # Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and install to the water pump with the bolts finger-tight. # With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values: ## Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). ## Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). ## Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). ## Radiator outlet pipe assembly to pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm). # Install the exhaust manifold. # Raise and safely support the vehicle. # Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. # Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed. Lower the vehicle. # Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold. # Install the heat shields. # Attach the oxygen sensor connector. # Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off. # Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level. 2.4L Engine

See Figure 3 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Drain and recycle the engine coolant. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the water pump and mounting on the engine-2.4L engine

# Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. # Remove the upper exhaust manifold heat shield. # Raise and safely support the front end of the vehicle securely on jackstands. # Remove the exhaust manifold brace bolt. # Unbolt and remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield. # Break loose the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded nuts. # Unbolt the radiator outlet pipe assembly from the water pump cover. # Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. # Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts. Do not rotate the flex coupling more than 4°. this could damage the component. # Separate the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. ## On manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. # Next, leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to detach it from the water pump. Allow the outlet pipe to hang. # Lower the vehicle. # Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head nuts. # Extract the manifold, seals and gaskets. # Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to the procedure later on in this section. # Remove the timing chain tensioner. Refer to Timing Chain removal later in this section. # Unbolt the water pump from the cylinder block. # Extract the pump assembly-to-timing chain housing nuts. # Remove the water pump and cover assembly. # Separate the pump from the cover. # Clean all mating surfaces of gaskets and sealant materials. To install:

Prior to installing the water pump, read the entire procedure. Pay special attention to the tightening sequence to avoid component damage and ensure a proper seal. # Attach the water pump to the cover and hand-tighten the components. # Lubricate the splines of the water pump drive with chassis grease or equivalent, then install the pump and cover assembly. Hand tighten the cover-to-block bolts. # Install the pump-to-chain housing nuts and hand-tighten. # Lubricate the O-ring on the radiator outlet pipe with an anti-freeze solution and slide the pipe into the water pump cover, install and hand-tighten the bolts. # With the specified gaps, tighten in sequence as follows: ## Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts ## Pump cover-to-pump assembly ## Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first ## Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-cover # Install the exhaust manifold using new gaskets. # Install the manifold-to-cylinder head nuts, follow the tightening sequence and tighten to specifications. # Raise and support the front of the vehicle. # Index the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe flange bolts. ## Turn bolt bolts in evenly to avoid cocking the exhaust pipe and binding the bolts. Turn the bolts in until they are fully seated. # Install and secure the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. On manual transaxles, install the exhaust manifold brace. # Install the timing chain tensioner and chain cover. # Attach the lower heat shield. # Lower the vehicle. # Attach the exhaust manifold brace. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification. # Attach and secure the upper heat shield. # Connect the oxygen sensor wiring. # Fill the radiator with coolant water mixture until it reaches the heater hose coolant outlet, then install the hose and continue to fill. This will assist with the complete cylinder block fill. # Connect the negative battery cable. # Start the engine and top off the cooling system and check for leaks. 2.5L Engine

See Figures 4 and 5 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. # Remove the drive belts. # If necessary for access, remove the alternator and A/C compressor. # Unfasten the water pump front cover assembly mounting bolts, then remove the water pump front cover assembly. Fig. 4: View of the water pump mounting-2.5L engine

To install:

# If installing a new pump, transfer the water pump pulley to the new pump using installer tool J25034-B, J29785-A or equivalent. Fig. 5: If installing a new water pump, transfer the pulley from the old pump using the proper tool

# Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Place a 1/8 inch (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the pump's sealing surface. # Install the pump to the engine, coating the bolt threads with sealant as they are installed. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm). # If removed, install the alternator and/or air conditioning compressor. # Install and adjust the drive belts. Refer to . # Connect the negative battery cable. # Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top off coolant level if necessary. 3.0L Engine

See Figure 6 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the cooling system into a suitable container. # Remove the drive belt. # Detach the coolant hoses at the water pump. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts (the long bolt can be removed through the access hole in the body side rail), then remove the pulley. # Unfasten the water pump mounting bolts, then remove the pulley. # Thoroughly clean and dry all gasket mating surfaces. To install:

Fig. 6: Water pump mounting and bolt tightening specifications-3.0L engine shown

# Using a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to the specifications. # Install the water pump pulley, then tighten the retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm). # Attach the coolant hoses to the pump. # Install the drive belt. # Fill the cooling system to the proper level with the correct type of coolant. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Let the engine run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and coolant level. Add coolant, if necessary, then turn the engine off. 3.1L Engine

See Figure 7 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the cooling system into a suitable container. # Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts. # Remove the serpentine belt. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the pulley. # Remove the five water pump mounting bolts, then remove the water pump. To install:

Fig. 7: View of the water pump mounting-3.1L engine shown

# Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. # Apply a thin bead of sealer around the outside edge of the water pump along the gasket sealing area, then install the gasket onto the water pump. # Position the water pump on the engine, then tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). # Install the water pump pulley and finger-tighten the pulley bolts. # Install the serpentine belt. # Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). # Fill the cooling system. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Let the engine run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and coolant level. Add coolant, if necessary, then turn the engine off. 3.3L Engine

See Figure 8 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. # Support the engine using J 28467-A or equivalent engine support fixture. # Remove the right engine mount. # Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts. # Remove the serpentine belt. # Unfasten and remove the idler pulley, then remove the engine brace. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts and remove the pump with the pulley attached. Separate the pump from the pulley. # Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Fig. 8: View of the water pump mounting and bolt tightening specifications

To install:

# Attach the water pump to the pulley, tighten the pump-to-pulley bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm), then install as an assembly. Install and hand-tighten the pulley bolts. # Install the engine brace and idler pulley. # Install the serpentine belt. # Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). # Install the right engine mount. # Remove the engine support fixture. # Fill the system with coolant. # Connect the negative battery cable, run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to the correct level. # Turn the engine off. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level and add if necessary.

The Emergency Brake is probably adjusted too tight.

signed: anonymous

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Well, that could be the case if the wheels don't turn at all. If they only lock up when you apply the brake, it's more likely that the star wheel is what's slightly too tight.

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Every time you press the brake pedal, the star wheel assembly in the drums (which the '92 has) automatically adjusts itself (turns out on a bolt). Over time as the brake shoes wear away, this extending bolt pushes the shoes farther and farther out to make sure they stay close enough to the drum to stop the car.

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When you do a brake job and put new shoes on, you have to remember to screw this bolt back in, otherwise they're now too close to the drum.

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Keep in mind its normal for them to grab slightly until the new shoes set in. If its not too bad it may return to normal within a day. If not, or when you press the brake the back wheels lock up way before the front grabs, or even if you're just not comfortable driving the car, take the car back to the shop and get them to loosen the back brakes a bit.

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If you do your own work and are comfortable doing your brakes, there is a plug you can remove on the backing plate and get in with a screwdriver to turn the star wheel while the drum is on. Don't do this yourself unless you're experienced or have the help of a pro. Your brakes are too important.

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signed: ukeduke

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Ok, here goes. First, buy, rent, or pay the deposit on the parts store's loaner long-handled serpentine belt tool. It has skinny sockets that you will need to replace the tensioner. Bite the bullet and get the tool. Also--bite another bullet and buy the tensioner when you buy the belt. Get the best quality belt and tensioner you can get: this is NO time or place to go cheap.

If your serpentine belt BROKE, you likely have a greater problem than a worn belt. Before going to the parts store, check to see if the water pump or AC compressor is frozen up. Buy parts accordingly. The forces involved in breaking the belt will also tear the pulley on the tensioner to pieces. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner pre-emptively. That's why you bought it when you bought the belt, so do it now.

Now, grit your teeth and accept the fact that you have to remove all the moter mount stuff. You'll have to support the engine (with a jack on a 2x4 to spread the weight) from underneath. You'll remove the 3 nuts (don't lose the blind bolt under the 3rd nut) on the top of the black stamped steel bracket, the two bolts in the passenger side fender well that hold the bottom of the 2nd stamped steel bracket, the two bolts holding the heavy duty silver bracket, and the three bolts holding the heavy black cast bracket to the underside of the heavy silver bracket.

You will find that getting the 3/8" drive of a ratchet into the slight space offered by GM at the tensioner may be impossible. However, there is a 19mm flat-sided boss on the tensioner facing the front of the car. You can get a 19mm open end wrench, or a Crescent wrench, onto that boss and lift forcefully to turn the tensioner. Turn counterclockwise, as viewed from the passenger side, to loosen the belt. I would still opt to get the serpentine installation tool set from the parts store. (I also went ahead and made a 3/8" tool with more offset than the store-bought one. If you have welding capability, it's worth it to have the home-made tool.)

Since you have removed all the motor mount stuff removed already, this is the time to remove and replace the tensioner. Just do it. A good new one (a Dayco brand tensioner) is about 50 bucks at a parts store. By now you'd pay three times that not ot have to do this job again. So just do it. Considering the work you are going through to do all this on your day off, replacing the tensioner as a preventative measure is well worth it. You need skinny hands to get the bolt started, but it can be done without too much grief. Put some Never-Seize on the bolt threads before installation. Note that you have to engage the pin on the tensioner into the hole in the engine timing gear cover before tightening down the bolt. Use the NEW BOLT that will come with the tensioner: it's different than GM's.

You already have removed the black stamped steel brackets that were attached to the fender, right? And you have also removed the heavy silver one that has the three big bolts (15 mm heads, two toward the back and one toward the front) and one empty hole at the front of the silver piece. You have replaced the tensioner because you do not want to go through this again next Spring. To install the new belt, you must LOOSEN the three bolts on the heavy and thick black cast and forged bracket that is attached to the engine. They are low and toward the front. This heavy forged thick bracket was attached to the thick silver piece with the three heavy bolts, and it is the black piece that prevents you from simply installing the belt around the power steering pump pulley. (BTW, removng the power steering pump won't help you--you have to get the belt around the black bracket.) By LOOSENING the three bolts in the heavy black bracket, you can just barely cause a gap at the rearmost heavy bolt location between the stamped steel engine mount boss and the heavy black bracket that will just barely allow you to slip in the belt. You may need to do a little gentle levering, but don't break anything. Note that I said LOOSEN--if you remove the three bolts you'll have coolant all over the place. Even so, you may have to remove the upper one completely to get enough of a gap at the rear for the belt to go through.

Once the belt is "through the loop" of the heavy black bracket, be sure you also get it around (over) the power steering pully, under the water pump pulley, and headed down toward the AC pulley. Tighten the three bolts that you just loosened, and thread the belt on to the pulleys. It goes (ribbed side) back around the alternator, down and around the crank pulley (ribbed side), up and around the tensioner (smooth side), down and around the AC pulley (ribbed side), up and around the water pump pulley (smooth side), over the power steering pump pulley (ribbed side) and rearward to the alternator (ribbed side.) Whew! You'll quickly find that it won't voluntarilty go over the alternator pulley unless you relieve the tensioner. Use the tool you rented or bought or made to relieve the tensioner (see above), slip the belt over the alternator pulley (ribbed side), and then ease up on your death grip on the tensioner tool to allow the belt to tighten itself.

CHECK ALL THE PULLEYS to be SURE the ribbed surface is centered on each ribbed pulley!! Misalignment will break the belt in a hurry, and then you can do this delightful task all over again.

Ok, that was all easy. You started at 10:00 thismorning and now it's 8:30 tonight. Now it's time to reassemble this beast. Whether today or tomorrow is up to you.

You will find that dealing with the motor mount pieces is a challenge, especially in re-assembly. The one and only nice thing GM did for you is to have provided that 4th hole (the empty one) in the silver bracket--it allows you to pry and wiggle the motor mount pieces into alignment. Be prepared to adjust the engine up, down, front, and back a lot. With patience and some jockeying around, it all bolts together in reverse of disassembly.

Check for tools and anything you may have forgotten to tighten. The only left over part should be the original GM tensioner attachment bolt and the old tensioner, both of which you replaced with the new tensioner. Check coolant level. and Voila !!