Grand Am GT

You can't! I know it sucks but you have to replace the entire regulator assembly. Actually, it depends on which plastic clips you're trying to replace. True that the plastic slides are only available as part of the regulator, but the plastic glass channels are available separately from various sources, including Advance Auto's "Help!" section. The adhesive to attach is another matter, however. GM sells individual use vials at incredible prices that typically aren't in stock and are available only in box quantities, if special ordered. Check glass/windshield replacement stores, or NAPA sells a eurothane adhesive that has so far worked for me. Not exactly inexpensive, but doable. Be sure to buy the primer that goes with it, strength only a fraction without it!

Your standard security system is not allowing for your car to be started. My trailblazer did it, and i had to reset the computer codes, then have the company that installed the alarm come back and replace a faulty bypass. This may be what you are incurring

It's not as easy as it should be - you have to remove all of the obvious stuff to gain access to the cover from the top. Remove serpentine belt. Jack up passenger front wheel, secure with jack stands. Remove the splash shield to gain access to the crank pulley, remove that pulley, loosen all of the timing cover bolts. Put the crank pulley retaining bolt back on crank and use it to rotate engine to top dead center (align little dots on crank and case). Then mark the chain where it meets the two cam sprockets, remove the chain tensioner (lower on the engine, near the crank). Next, remove the two cam sprockets from the cams. Then the trick is to remove all the bolts in the face of the timing cover that hold it to the block plus loosen the nuts that hold the water pump (under the exhaust manifold) to the timing cover. Don't remove the nuts entirely or you'll have trouble getting them started again (at least the one nearest the engine block). With the water pump loose enough, you should have enough clearance to get the cam cover off the top of the cam housing. You can do all of this without removing any of the engine mounts, but you will have to work with the timing cover to find just the position that it will go up over the mount and allow you to work inside the timing chain housing. I'd recommend getting a Chilton's manual - what I've stated is not working line for line from that book, but what I've figured out by using that book as a reference and doing a bit of experimenting.

It can be found inside the Grand Am

It is on the passenger side, just above the belts. It is back towards the fire wall, and the housing makes an elbow. It has three bolts holding the front housing to the rear.

Rear of engine near firewall.

you are having an idle problem man , when you turn the power steering pump takes place from engine idling power

second sugestion , if you are about running out of fuel , means only 10 or less liters reman , it the guy may not reach the fuel during turning and it sucks air so it stall or turn off

listen while in park turn steering wheel to the end of the right or left and see , if it stalls its an idle problems , if it stalls on curvy roads and hard turnings so you may have a fuel missing due to the above mentioned.

If you just need to replace the bulb(s), open the trunk lid and remove part of the felt liner. There are platic pins that can be easily taken out to do this. The bulb(s) can be accessed from behind the trunk lid. They are very inexpensive under $2); so you may want to change them both. The bulbs are bayonnet style and look like fuses; easily unclipped and replaced.

oddly, you can NOT do change the bulb(s) by loosening the 3 screws above the license plate that appear to hold the bulbs' lenses in place. It must be done from inside the trunk as described above.

I was just quoted in the S.F. East Bay Area $375.00 parts and labor. Kragen has the rebuilt starter needed for $100.00. The shop manual looks almost too easy. I think the description and pics are without ANY thing in your way and that seems impossible knowing how tight a fit that engine is.

Good Luck!

G

Mine has been coming on because I have a bad wire somewhere in the car. I also have a 2000 Monte Carlo SS, and I have been trying to find out where to find these wires before I rip my car apart. If you take it to a mechanic they can hook it up to the computer and it will tell you exactly what is wrong, it cost $50, otherwise mine light has also came on when my gas cap is not on tight, if you want to try that. DO NOT PAY TO HAVE THE TROUBLE CODES READ!!!!! ALL AutoZone parts stores will read them and clear them from your car for FREE! . .

my car doing the same thing

Bad battery, starter, or loose or corroded cables.

How do you reset pass-lock on 2001 grand am How do you reset pass-lock on 2001 grand am

First check to see if your getting fuel,you will or should hear the fuel pump prime itself when you turn the key forward.Stop the key before you turn car to start position.On the front of your fuel rail you1ll see like a bike tire cap. undo that cap and give a little push on the valve,it will spray out so don`t put your face over it.If you here the pump and your gettin fuel,pull a plug leave it attached to wire and rest it on a grounded area(metal) have someone crank engine and look for sparks at the plug.No spark=ignition problem,no fuel pressure=fuel pump problem.Good luck

if the motor is turning over, look where the air filter is located follow it to the throttle body there is a sensor on top it is black with two or three screws i believe its called ICM unplug this sensor and crank the car, if it starts this sensor is bad around $125

You should have programming instruction in the user manual.

NOTE: You don't have instructions in the manual. I have heard that only dealers can program the 99 models. Here are two procedures (one is for the 2000, which I have, and I know it works, the other is supposed to be a GM secret for the 99s, hope it helps you)

For the 99:

Transmitter Programming:

1)With the driver door closed, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel.

2)Turn the ignition switch to the ON position

3)Turn the

ignition switch to the OFF position

4)Turn the

ignition switch to the ON position

5)Turn the

ignition switch to the OFF position

6)Release the power unlock button on

the door panel.

The

remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner in order to indicate that the receiver is in the programming mode:

6.1)Locking the doors

6.2)Unlocking the doors

IMPORTANT:

All extra transmitters must be programmed at this time. When a new transmitter is programmed it will deactivate the old transmitters.

7)Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the

remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:

7.1)Locking the doors

7.2)Unlocking the doors

Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter

9) Turn the

ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.

For the 2000:

Get in, close the doors. While holding the unlock button down on the door, quickly and fully insert the key (don't turn it!) remove it, insert it, remove it, insert it. Keep it in the ignition, again don't turn it. Release the unlock button. You will here three chimes. Hold the lock/unlock buttons on your remote simultaneously until you hear three chimes again. Remove the key or start the car, and your'e good to go.

If you turn the key at any time, remove it, open and close the doors, and start over. This literally takes 10 seconds to complete.

The fuse box in the engine compartment take the lid off turn the cover over it should have a diagram of the relay for the horn. the Relay is in the fuse box. I believe the fuse box is on the driver side under the

It's a lot like popping your knuckles... But because of the way you have to have someone "stand" on your back (see Japanese demontrations... or a chiropracter) it takes a lot of weight concentrated over the spine to "Pop" the facet joints like you "pop" your knuckles... the "popping" sound is actually a small bubble of nitrogen being "pulled" into the (vacuum) space by the torsion of slightly opening the joint. It's reported that this can damage the joints, but the review of the medical literature bebunks this myth... Ever been to a Chiropracter? They do this for a living, and charge a pretty penny for their treatments!! I must admit I did it when I was younger, and must admit it does feel good for a while afterward...

how to replace harmonic balancer 3.4 v6 2001 grand am gt?

In a situation like that I always tell people to go back to the basics: Spark, fuel and Compression. If you have all three, it should start. The spark has to be at the correct timing, but if the vehicle was running and suddenly stopped, there isn't much reason to believe that the timing changed. The fuel has to be delivered in an approximately correct quantity for the engine to run right but it should at least pop and attempt to start. So... Start with fuel. Using starting fluid, spray in the throat of the throttle body while a friend attempts to start the engine. If the engine runs while you're spraying, you probably have a fuel problem. Check the fuel line for pressure. If you don't have any it's probably the fuel pump. It's in the tank and you'll have to drop the tank in a suburban to get to the fuel pump. It isn't as bad as it sounds. Disconnect the battery first. Siphon out as much as you can get easily, disconnect the fuel fill pipe from the tank, using a floor jack, support the tank while you remove the straps. There are usually only two. Once the straps are disconnected, lower the tank and remove the fuel line and the wires to operate the fuel pump and fuel gague. You'll have to clean the top of the tank so that you don't get debris inside, then remove the screws and work the pump assembly out of the tank. On the other hand... if you have fuel pressure and the engine doesn't start when you use the starter fluid, you probably have a problem with ignition. Pull one spark plug wire, then using a spare plug from some other source, attach the wire to the spare plug and lay the plug on a metal part of the engine, then crank the engine and watch the plug. If you have spark it might be something else. If there is no spark, find out why. It could be the pickup coil, electronic ignition module, high voltage coil or even a bad rotor in the distributor. It's all a process of elimination. Remember the words of Sherlock Holms, "When all other possibiliities have been eliminated..."

Take it to Auto Zone. They will remove them and replace your new ones. IF you buy them there, I suppose.

Defective ignition switch.

The front speakers I know are 4x6's despite two door or four and I am pretty sure the rear are 6x9's

Should be around 175 horsepower. The 3.4L V6 in the SE cranks out 170 horses, and the ram air feature on the GT adds 5 more.

Most of them are behind the glovebox on the heater enclosure. You may have to remove the heater control and/ or radio if that is in the way. The hard part is getting to it; they are usually held in place by a couple of screws and just plug into a connector. I hope this helps you. Mark

>>> Its behind glove box and behind blower motor its has cable divided from blower cable & cable to resister box, Its black box ( u can see cable going in ) attached with 2 screws , its behind blower motor towards front side

>> u have to remove cover on left passenger side ..

Go to this link and it will illustrate how to trouble shoot and change the motor.

http://www.infinite-idea.com/tsbs/TiltSteeringWheelInoperative.pdf