Grand Am GT

my 99 grand am did this and i called roadside assistance and they told me to reset it that you just put your key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and leave it for about 10 to 15 minutes. Come back and the security light will have stopped blinkiing and you turn the key to the off position and then try to start it and it should start.

It will automatically reset after 10 mins if you remove key. The car will then restart. This happened to me so often I finally disconnected it by cutting the yellow wire behind the radio. My security light now stays on but at least it starts every time.

Possibly air trapped in the system. Make sure the radiator is full, and then bleed the system. Or your thermostat may have something clogged in it. Year 2000 fords use the original green antifreeze, if someone has put dex cool in it, the two coolants will make a sludge inside your cooling system and cause things like that to happen.

1-2-3-4-5-6

2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager SE 3.3L R Gas engine. Here's the spark plug firing order or how to put the spark plug wires back on information: When standing on the passenger side of the van, where the fan belt is, the pistons on the left side or back of engine, are numbered 1, 3, 5 (1 is closest to you, 3 in middle, 5 is on drivers side). On the right side of the engine, or front of the van they're numbered 2, 4, 6 (2 is on passengers side, 4 is in middle, & 6 is on drivers side). The coil pack on my van is already numbered, just brush the dirt off and put the number 1 piston's spark plug wire to the #1 pin on the coil pack, etc. In case yours isn't numbered, here's the numbering of the coil pack from top left, across to the top right is 3, 1, 5, and then from bottom left, to bottom right is 6,4,2.

Check bulbs Fuse Stop light switch

It's located in the shift indicator module. To gain access to this module you need to remove the centre console. This is easier than you might think. You'll need to open the centre hatch (padded arm rest) and remove the two Torx screws. Then raise the back end up and pull toward the rear of the vehicle. This should release the entire console from the base. Now you can remove the various switches that may restrict raising the console up sufficiently that you can get your hand under the gear indicator module. There are several switches in the console but the most critical to remove are the heated seat switches and the transmission adjustment switch (Summer/Economy/Winter switch). The heated seat switches pop up and the connectors can be removed easily.

Once you are able to raise the console enough to get your hand under the gear indicator module you can feel for the light which is the round thing on the bottom of the module and it conveniently pops downwards easily. Now you have the light and the wires to it in your hand remove the light and its socket from the connector. The light and its socket can then be removed from the vehicle for replacement. The light is similar to those elsewhere in the panel (switches and radio) in that it is a bulb with two wires extending from it. This bulb, of course, is higher power and thus larger and of different current. 12V and probably something around 1.2A but I do not have any definite specs on it yet nor a source. I suspect any decent electronics parts shop should be able to help. I'll be checking with Active Electronics here.

The bulb is mounted into the holder by welding the wires to the spade connectors that fit into the switch. You'll need to be able to solder the replacement in here but that should be relatively simple.

yes.. i have a 99 grand am gt come stock 3400 and i put a 3100 in it.. runs perfect..

google gator belts or graber belts look at the catalog and surf it will show you under micro v belt install

I had some minor work done to my 04 and it cost about 200.00 to replace them!

Owners manual says 3.8 quarts if you do not change the oil filter, or 4.0 quarts if you do change the oil filter.

there is not a dip stick in that car it is a sealed system. it only has a fill cap on the drivers side of the engine under exhaust manifold behind the airbox assembly its a red cap

Yes. The light means that one of the tires is not reading correctly. Either from improper pressure or a sensor problem.

If the engine is a 3100 V6, the crankshaft sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). You'll need a special puller to remove tha balancer. The sensor is attached by two bolts onto the timing cover. Replace sensor and plug it in. Repalce balancer& belts...you're done!

In the steering column, the grand am has a multifunction fuse box

This is how I did it.. I connected the black and white halo wires the the extra bulb housing with the brown and black wires. Then, my high beam lights were wired to my fog lights because the standard big plug doesn't work with the high beams and low beams. Again, that is how I wired it. Don't forget, you basically have to cut out most of the plastic housing so the head light will even fit.

drive car to warm oil, keep engine running, put handbrake on, go through all gear selections then back to neutral - check oil

your probably getting transmission fluid in your cooling system from the cooler in the rad. replace your rad

It is a pretty good job. Get a manual for your car from the parts store and it will give you directions.

On the 1993, disconnect the heater hoses under the car, and connect the water hose back to the engine so that engine water will circulate if you can't do the replacement immediately. Remove the dash and the fan housing, move the AC evaporator out of the way, and then pull the heater core out.

Im not sure if the GT is different from the SE but for the SE you will find it located behind the radio. A manual is always the best advice. After removing the glove boxes (mine has two) and gaining entry from the drivers side under the dash you will find the housing and venting. On the firewall in the very middle at the bottom you will find two hoses that go into the car. They should only be about 3-4 inches apart. They are quite a good squeeze to get your hands on but it is possible. Remove the hoses from the heater core. Once the housing inside the dash is remove (6-8 screws) you will see the heater core. Undo the band that goes across the top and bottom. Remove the heater core. Do everything in reverse for installation. Mine took me and my brother in law about 4 hours to do. Getting the hoses off and back on from the outside are probably the hardest part.

If you are doing it yourself, the best pricing I've found for parts is at www.rockauto.com - you can buy semi-loaded or fully-loaded (with pads) calipers there. Installation is quite simple but you'll probably have to get the rotors (discs) resurfaced too, which would mean removing them and taking them to a brake shop. If the rotors are under sized (too badly worn) you will have to replace them. You can also buy replacement rotors at the same place as the calipers.

Doing it yourself, call around to different auto parts stores to get prices.

A repair shop that specializes in brake repair will charge anywhere from about $500.00 to $900.00. The trouble here is finding a shop that you can trust.

Look in the power distribution box (Black Box) located under the hood drivers side.

Stock pressure is 30 psi

The rear brakes will lock when there isn't enough weight in the rear of the vehicle, the surface is loose (like a gravel road), or they [the brakes] are applied to heavily. Newer vehicles with anti-lock brake systems (ABS) should not have this problem.

First determine which end is bad, inner/outer, or both. Get a good grip on the rod, and try to move it. If it's bad, you are likely to feel it, and hear it too. You can easily see if the outer rod end is moving side to side, or front to back, depending on how you're moving it. NOTE: Moving 'around' is normal, and you want that. Any displacement from center is what's bad.

The inner rod end you can't see, but you can still check. move closer towards the steering rack, and do your best to move it. If it's bad, you'll again likely be able to both feel and see it.

This will help you discuss this with your mechanic better, or save you money on parts. I'm not a Toyota guy, so I don't know how difficult inner rod ends are on them. Some cars are a chore without special tools.

Good luck, and BE CAREFUL under your car.

4x6 in the doors, 6x9 in the rear

Begin by removing the front tire. Then Remove the cotter pin( this would be the pin going through the tie rod at the bottom that is bent to prevent it from falling out) And then loosen and remove the nut on the bottom of the tie rod connecting it to the steering knuckle. At this point use a hammer to bang on the bottom of the tie rod end to free it from the steering knuckle. once you have the tie rod free from the steering knucle loosen the bolt located at the back end of the tie rod that is connected to the inner tie rod. usually this will be a large bolt that is a silver or black in color. With that bolt free, Begin unscrewing the outer tie rod end. As you unscrew the tie rod end count the revolutions ( how many turns it takes) this will be important when installing the new tie rod end. you can now remove the bolt that will still be on the inner tie rod end. This completes the removal of the tie rod end.

To install the new tie rod end begin by locating the greese fitting on the new tie rod end and put a large amount of greese into the fitting. you should see the rubber boot begin to bulg out a little. Now you are ready to put on the new bolt and you can screw that bolt onto the inner tie rod a little further than the tie rod end will be. Then screw on the outer tie rod to the threds on the inner tie rod. Remember to screw it on the same amount of revolutions as the old one came off with. ( EXP: 14 turns to take off the old one 14 turns to put the new one on) this will help to keep your alignment correct. Now line up the threaded stud on the tie rod with the hole on the steering knuckle and push it into position. Now tighten up the bolt that is on the inner tie rod to secure the rear of the outer tie rod. Then install the bolt to the threaded stud on the bottom of the outer tie rod. tighten this bolt as far as you can by hand and install the Cotter pin after the bolt is good and tight. finish by filling the greese fitting with more greese or until the rubber boot appears full. That should complete the instalation of the outer tie rod.

4x6