Heating AC and Engine Cooling

The fuses restrict the amperage (electrical current/flow) of the circuit. The fuse is size according to wire size and load requirements. NEVER put in an over-sized fuse as it will allow to much amperage for the circuit which will cause overheating of the circuit and possible fire.

i have a 95 probe gt 2.5l with a bad head gasket and it overheats if driven longer than 5-10 min tops

idk how to fix it though hope this helps

My first guess would be the blower motor speed resister. The second guess would be the switch and/or switch plug. I agree, It's a very common problem, the resistor goes for about $52.00 Can. Carquest has them part # RU44

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_engine_cooling_fan_assembly_from_a_2000_dodge_intrepid"

3O degrees and below. a block heater will keep the coolant in your engine warm and allow easier starting of your engine on the coldest day. hope this helps

usually whenever your driving a diesel in a normally cold climate, such as northern states that see longer, colder winters

block heaters improve cold weather starts by keeping the engine coolant warm on cold winter mornings.over time this will also help extend the life of your engine by cutting down on "cold starts". it will also increase fuel milage by cutting down on the engine warm up time. block heaters are a must on diesel engines that are operated in the winter months. you must remember,although block heaters do keep a diesel engine warm,and improve starting on the cold winter mornings,most do not heat the fuel and keep it from "jelling". be sure to allways use a good fuel additive or anti-jell like howes or power service in your diesel fuel and keep your fuel filter clean as water likes to settle in the bottom.

If you are in the USA the additive is already in the fuel. It started back a few years ago when there was a really BAD winter and no body could GO due to jelled fuel.I am now in the UK and am trying to find out if it is in the fuel here.

answer

if vehicle is diesel block heaters should be used in temps lower than 50 degrees. unless on a big truck block heaters are not proper block heaters, they are heaters installed in oil cooler and keep oil warm, when engine is not running. using a block heater will assist in engine starting easier, oil will circulate qicker as it is still warm and engine will get to running temp a lot faster. diesel "gells" or freezes up due to the water and wax content that is in diesel fuel most diesel purchased has additives added by the distributor.but it is a good practice to add your own additives as this is not always done due to the cost this is also not added by distributors in the warm months and believe it or not, i have had diesl gell in dallas, Texas, diesel engines do not use all fuel that is sent to engine , and have a return line which takes unused fuel back to fuel tank.engine is at running temp, the unused fuel returned to the tank is hot from going thru engine. this will heat fuel in tank and eventually fuel will be hot before it reaches engine this stops fuel gelling in tank

Isolate the cicuit in question, or turn off power altogether. Remove the burned/fused section of the fuse wire in the fuse carrier and replace with the recommended fuse wire. Turn power back on.

Unfortunately, there is no link back to former questions. If you would like to discuss your specific engine problems, please contact me directly at: a_d_kirkwood@excite.com I would be happy to help you figure out what's wrong if you would like.

The SSFR (Solid State Fan Relay)Cooling fan relay is located on the left front inner frame just behind the radiator.

The radiator coolant fan relay is located on the inside front of the engine compartment near the left headlight assembly. You have to remove the air filter assembly, then look for a simple square relay with 4 wires running into it. It is mounted with 2 screws. It is the only relay at that location. If it has burned, you will need to replace the pigtail wiring harness.

Remove the air box beside the battery a 10 mm bolt and the relay is a four prong square box bolted on the frame with two 8mm bolts

www.autozone.com

Click component location.

Some are located under the drivers side headlight (like Mine), Remove air cleaner assembly, remove headlight module, remove (plastic) cover(air intake0 with a Phillips screwdriver, locate module, remove wires (red tab). Some are riveted (like mine), carefully drill our rivets remove module, install new module,

re rivet or replace w/screws, rehook wires rellace parts removed and you are finished. Even w/rivets job took approx 1 hr

I had this problem once with my 2000 Malibu, It was a resistor that I needed to replace. I received instructions from some guys off the internet and fixed it myself. I don't remember the name of the site. Where are all the guys out there to answer these questions? signed a (blank) blonde.

The fan is usually meant to cool the radiator. It shouldn't be anything to worry about. Since the radiator cools the antifreeze that has come from and circulates through the engine, as long as the fan is running, the coolant is remaining at a good temperature and you won't have to worry about overheating.

To add freon to a portable AC unit, first ensure the unit is turned off and unplugged. Locate the service port, typically found on the refrigerant line, and attach a refrigerant gauge or hose. With the appropriate type of freon, slowly add refrigerant while monitoring the pressure gauge to avoid overcharging. Always follow safety guidelines and consider consulting a professional if you're unsure.

A catalytic converter changes unburned hydrocarbons into carbon dioxide and water vapor. It's a simple chemical process, and like most chemical processes, it will either generate or absorb heat so in this case, since the catalytic converter requires heat to change the state of the hydrocarbons, it either has to be heated or it will operate quite effectively using the exhaust heat.

Note, if the engine is operating efficiently there should be very little for the catalytic converter to do.

There isn't a rear accumulator. There is a rear orfice tube and evaporator.

sounds like the drain on your ac evaporator core is plugged up. A service station should be able to blow this out.

I own a 97 Buick Skylark with this problem (saturated floors on passenger front and back) but the water does seem to accumulate more after during and after a rain.

Honestly, if you need to ask, you need to make sure this is a project you can tackle.

Typically, there will be 'marks' on the pulleys and cylinder head(s) to help you. They can vary, usually there is a little tab and a 'hatch' mark on it that lines up with a mark on a pully. Some cars just have just a couple of holes that are alinged before you tension the new belt. It depends on the manufacturer. You really need to consult a service manual to make sure you do it right.

This link can help you get an idea of what you are in for:http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.HTML

The mechanic at the shop indicated that there was no bleed screw on the 200 Ford Explorer. This problem was resolved by starting the car (not driving it) and allowing it to run a little. The machanic did advise us to not allow the car to overheat.

yeah it does

Its either in your fuse box under the hood or in the fuse box in the cabin under the dash. Relays are square boxes. Check your owners manual. It will tell you.

Be fast with this crank you engine turn you ac on and fans are suppose to run at all time when the ac is running. If they are not running you either have a bad relay or bad fans!

The fan relay is located next to the Battery. All the relays are the same model and type and value, so you should be able to switch the horn relay with the fan relay.

Trail and error should fix your problem!

Again be quick and keep your eye on that tempture guagel!

your a/c compresore is bad

Check inside the car undre the dash , check the heater core.

arm & a leg

I have a `97 Malibu, so far so good, with the exception of letting a mobile mechanic touch it!!!. Can we say "NEW ENGINE"!!!!!!, anyway, got another engine, EXACT replacement only 50K on it, my issue has been the heat/ac fan...it only operated at the five position, the blower works, the heater and ac work, now the fan does not even turn at five, every once in a while the fan will"turn", providing static to the radio(that is how I know it is turning) LOL!!!. I understand there is a resistor board that provides the contact to the dial at it is underneath and behind the center console...I am not one to rip apart anything without understanding the dis-assembly of anything, I am also experiencing a problem with the tail light assembly (passenger side), the running, turn and backup lights work, however, the BRAKE light does not... the connector is melted in this one wire I have considered HARDWIRING the "BRAKE" wire, bypassing the connector, this will be my only option since I am having ONE HECK OF A TIME finding the connector, both wire harness end and tail light end, I would fell most comfortable using the proper connector. Any ideas???. Thank You,

Patricia

Are you sure that's an engine number? It doesn't look like one.

What it looks like is a chassis serial number from a right-hand-drive 1972 non-Super Beetle.

Engine serial numbers all have letters as their first characters, and the part numbers for entire Bug engines would start "111 101" which means:

first three digits: car in which part was first used--111 is the standard Beetle

fourth digit: subgroup--"1" is for the engine

Fifth and sixth digits: functional area within subgroup--"01" is for the complete assembly

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I believe that the 122 indicates that it is a Volkswagen industrial engine. The 145118 part of the number would indicate that it was built somewhere between April and August of 1965.

1. Remove the grille panel, the cowl grille support panel, the right headlamp assembly, and the right radiator core support assembly.
2. From inside the vehicle, remove the glove box bin, the right spot cooler duct, and the lower instrument panel skirt.
3. Through the glove box opening and from under the instrument panel, remove the screws and nuts that secure the heater-A/C housing to the dash panel.
4. Remove the screws that secure the flange connection between the heater-A/C housing and the blower housing.
5. Separate the heater-A/C housing from the blower housing, and carefully remove the heater-A/C housing from the vehicle.

yes