Mazda

The Mazda ABS relay switch is located on the firewall in the engine compartment. The ABS relay switch will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

check for a disconnected wire connector or melted wires first, then try replacing the O2 sensor, I believe it is the front one on the passenger side. but I could be wrong.

Yes, a Mazda B2000 is most definitely a 4-cylinder with a 2.0L engine. However, technically Mazda didn't produce the B2000 as a 1988 model. It was made in 1986-1987. Then in 1989 Mazda made the B2200 Pickup, which is a 2.2L 4 cylinder.

Its 6x5.5 same as a Chevy, Toyota, Cadillac and Nissan 6 lug patterns so the wheels are interchangeable.

its a known problem with late 95 to 2001 Mazda 4 cyl 626 which is a ford transmission called CD4E that is the worst transmission in this planet and that's why you don't see a lot of Mazda 626 late 95 and above

Its located behind the drivers seat under a plate on the floor , it has two wing nuts on it to remove the plate to get to the bottle.

I just replaced the door latch mechanism inside the door on a Mazda B2200. It was not too difficult to do as long as you have some mechanical ability.

Trouble Symptoms: The door would not open using either the latch outside the door or the release latch on the inside of the door.

The resolution to the problem is replacing a small 1/4" spring on the latch mechanism inside the door. Unfortunately Mazda will NOT sell just the spring. You must buy the whole latch assembly (for approximately $120). In my case, I refuse to pay that much!! I went to a junk yard in Houston and purchased the the latch assembly for $35.

To start you must remove the inside door cover. First remove the two screws holding the arm rest. The armrest should just pull off or fall off when the second screw is removed. Then remove the window rollup and rolldown handle. To do this push in the panel behind the knob then you will see a spring C-clip holding the handle onto the handle shaft. Pry off the clip (be careful as this is spring loaded and flys off as it comes off so it is easy to lose). Once it is off the knob and the back plate should slide off the shaft.

Now remove the screw holding the inside door latch. Unscrew the screw and pull out the latch. You will see that it is attached to a metal rod. There is a plastic fitting holding the "L" shaped end of the rod on the latch. Pry off the plastic part of the fitting that is on the longer part of the rod. The pull the "L" part out of the latch. The latch should now be free to remove from the door.

Now it is a matter of putting a screw driver between the leather door cover and the metal door. Pry outward toward you. There a plastic snap fittings that pop loose as you pry. Try to pry near the fittings so that they do not pull though the panel. Once they are all loose (about 10 or 12) the panel should lift up towards the top of the door. (Might take a tap or two with the palm of your hand.) If it does not come off, check for another plastic snap fitting still holding the door panel on. Take off panel. Peel back plastic insulator from top left corner near the push button lock. Look inside the door and you will see the latch mechanism. There will be four rods attached to the mechanism. (Kinda looks like spagetti and way to complicated, but trust me they are bent so that it is fairly easy to put them back together.)

Look inside the door past the latch mechanism and you will see 2 10mm nuts. These nuts hold the outside door latch on. I took these off so the the latch was looser in the door and easier to move. I then remove the 3 Phillips screws that were in the door jam. This releases the door latch mechanism, however the mechanism is still held in place by the window rail which is also a 10 mm bolt in the door jam. Once this is removed the rail comes loose in the door as does the latch. I then removed the plastic fittings on the other two rods, one for the keylock, one for the pushbutton lock. The last rod is the rod between the outside latch and the latch mechanism inside the door. This MUST be unscrewed from the outside latch as there are no plastic fittings. This was done for security of the vehicle. One the latch is loose inside the door just push the rod so that the rod pushes out the outside door latch -- then unscrew it. The installation is the reverse of these steps. I choose to replace the tiny spring from then salvaged latch on my old latch, however you can either replace the entire latch or just the spring. REMEMBER there is a difference between the drivers side latch and the passenger side latch so specify accordingly.

Under the drivers seat

It's a CHAIN

The cabin air filter in a 2006 Mazda 5 is located under passenger side dash. First remove the left side kick panel and plastic underneath the glove box. Locate the air filter box and remove the four screws holding it. The air filter will then be able to slide out. Simple replace the filters with the new units.

I'm not sure about a '99, but I know for '95 and earlier the only way to clear the check engine light is to have a mechanic hook up your car to a computer ('running a diagnostic'). It takes them <5 mins and no effort, but invariably costs ~$80. Now is the time to call in a small favor from a friend in the business. The light will remain on even after the problem has been fixed until it is reset.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, and then hold down the brake pedal for 8-10 seconds.

This works! I just reset the check engine light on my 1996 Miata M but used a slightly different procedure. I disconnected the positive terminal instead of the negative only because it was easier to get to. Admittedly, it's bit riskier because of the potential to short out the terminal against the frame with the wrench but none the less effective.

An an electronic tech I concluded, whether accurate or not, the science behide the brake pedal trick was to discharge any remaining queertrons lurking in the circuit. With that in mind I also turned on the headlights just for good measure. After the suggested 8-10 seconds waiting period I reconnected everything and voila the check engine had indeed reset as advertised. Before you begin though, I suggest you record all your radio station presets as those too, along with the time, will also be lost.

It is a warning that you or your passenger sitting in the front seat is not wearing a seat belt.

There are a couple!

Main ones located in the engine bonnet

Accessories (lights radio etc) Fuse box located near the drivers foot well.

MAZDA IS JAPANESE AND ARE MADE IN HIROSHIMA JAPAN!

replace head gasket

how do you remove spare tyre on a Mazda bongo 1997

Newton meters (Nm) multiplied by 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft). Pounds-force feet multiplied by 1.356 = Newton meters.

Here are some easy steps to bleed the system.First make sure the clutch reservoir is full of fluid.Next on your bleeder container fill it half way with clean brake fluid.Next get under the truck with this and connect your line and open the bleeder and have a helper manually push the clutch pedal until the old fluid starts to flow into the container and air bubbles start.Do this until the container is almost full.Close the bleeder and recheck the reservoir and top it off(leave the cap on the reservoir off while doing this).Now go thru the same steps and this may take two to three times to clear the old fluid or air bubbles out of the line or system.Each time you fill the container empty the container to half full you are draining the old fluid into.This should not take longer than twenty minutes to do.I recommend having a can of brake cleaner to clean the area and tools you use.In my experience it take about 3 times of filling the container at the slave to clear the system and have nice clean fluid in the resevior.Never run the fluid empty in the clutch reservoir itself.I would buy a big bottle of dot 3 or 4 fluid are fine so you do not run out.Hope this is clear enough and a easy process.Note if the slave cylinder is leaking fluid due to wear replace it,unless you did replace it or the fluid is black and you are just flushing the system.Ok

There are numerous different signs of a bad fuel injector. The most common signs are reduced gas mileage, a rough idle, and an engine misfire.

The RX stands for Rotary eXperiment. As you may know, the Mazda RX series of vehicles are not powered by conventional piston engines like 99% of all other vehicles on the road. Instead, they are powered by a rotary engine, also known as a Wankel engine.

Check the fusible engine link for the engine. If the fusible link is blown (check by swapping with headlight motor fusible link- if headlight motor works, fuse is good).

1. Check gas. If old, drain it. Then add fresh gas to tank.

2. Check fuse to fuel pump.

3. May be bad coil. Take out each spark plug, one at a time... And hold with insulated pliers while assistant cranks car. See if there is ignition spark. Reinstall spark plug. Remove next plug and check next plug. If there is spark, reinstall plug and repeat process with remaining two plugs. If plugs dont spark, you may have bad computer boxes that are

mounted to each distributor.

4. Check also spark plug wires for cracks.

5. Took out refeence to distributor cap, and 88 has dis and only has a crank angle sensor...

6. Check and make sure your spark wires are connected in the proper sequence to the appropriate spark plugs.

7. Consider the turn over speed of the starter. That could be an issue.

8. If your rx7 has sat up for a while, remove air filter cleaner and pour about 8 table spoons of automatic transmission fluid in the carb to allow apex seals to soak for about an hour.

take a small hammer and peck it from side ti side it should then pull out

bollocks

Look in your owners manual or under the hood, where you will find a placard listing the gap.

the starter is located between transmission and engine down intake manifold