Nissan Pathfinder

Timing chain

hi, my friend the cost to replace the oxigen sensor depends if you go to the Nissan dealership is about $120.00 for one oxigen sensor or you can go to the discount auto parts, will cost $70.00 and it's easy to replace. you can do yourself and save a lot of money!! but make sure what sensor is not working because your Nissan pathfinder have 4 oxigen sensor. one before the catalistic and one after the catalistic. but Nissan pathfinder have two catalistics.

bad fuse or there is a short in 1 of the wires under your dash

My 1996 Pathfinder would start and idle fine but when the accelerator was pushed down the engine would stall and surge (at about 2000 RPM). The problem was a broken wire on the connector to the air flow mass sensor. When the connector was removed entirely the engine failed in the same way. The left most wire was the one broken of three wires, when I repaired this connection all was good. This connector carries both air intake volume info and air temperature info.

The 1997 QX4 has 5 equally spaced markings on the Crankshaft Pully.

The most left marking is TDC. Then the next marks to the right are 5,

10, 15 and 20 BTDC. The correct timing for this model vehicle is 15 Degrees

BTDC. To the best of my recollection you are permitted +/- 2 Degrees. I read one source that said the vehicle should be in N.

what is the engine?

yes in the fuse box underneth the hood

The fuel filter for a 1996 Pathfinder is located above the rear axle on the bottom of the body. You might need to jack the rear end up to fit underneath the vehicle. Be sure to have a set of jack-stands to keep you from getting crushed! The part is even available at Walmart for about $11. Good luck! JCC

o.k. i just did this repair on my truck so i hope this will help someone because it was a bear for me to replace.

1. drain your coolant 2. loosen the fan shroud and let it hang 3. remove the cooling fan. This step is not so easy. you need to by a tool set to remove this. It's only about 15 bucks for a wrench and a tool to hold the pulley. remember that this fan removes from the pulley in a clockwise turn(opposite from the usual way to release a bolt). It's o.k. if you dont get it off, you can just move on but it is in the way. 4. next remove the belt(pull down on the belt tensioner and it comes right off 5. remove the alternator, dont have to disconnect the electrical just unbolt 6. remove the alternator mount. 3 bolts all up front 7. now here's the hard part. There is one bolt on the water pump which cannot be removed without loosening the aircompressor/power steering pump mount. so to loosen the mount, you need to remove the belt tensioner. have to have a star bit set to remove the one bolt in the middle and it will come right off. There are 5 bolts on the mount. 2 on the driver's side three up front. the two on the side are obvious. the three on front are a little hard to find but the two hidden bolts are in the area behind where the belt tensioner was at. you dont have to disconnect the air compresor, just set the whole mount with the compressor and steering pump to the side. 8. remove all hoses from water pump. 9. remove the water pump and clean the engine surface to remove all remaining pieces of the old gasket. 10. install new gasket with rpv sealant and install new water pump.

For step 7 you do not have to remove the tensioner, you can use deep set sockets to remove the two bolts next to the tensioner.

I just did this.. it was almost perfect!

1. I did't have to remove alternator.

The Three bolts on the top. Holding the Ac powersteering pump mounting bracket on are hard to find. Some help! One bolt is in the cavity behind the idler pulley and the other is behind the tensioner pulley the third is easily seen between theses two. Also I did this on a 2000 Vin V and no star bit was necessary. Also to get the fan off I think it would be easier with belt on. I already had it off so. I unbolted the pulley and used a pipe wrench on the front of water pump and 7/8 wrench on the shaft

its on the passenger side rear one.

Take a 14 mm wrench and put on the center bold of the tensioner. Then pull back releasing pressure on the belt. Remove and replace. Take a 14 mm wrench and put on the center bold of the tensioner. Then pull back releasing pressure on the belt. Remove and replace.

Sounds as though it could be a few areas to look at, 1. check that it is not the bulbs, (access through rear plastic compartments inside car). 2. check that the fuse for reverse tail lights is not blown (front fuse panel next to accelerator pedal)and 3. try to remove the cover plate or sleeve around gear stick as there is a small switch that activates lights when put into reverse (may have dislogded the wiring). Hope this helps.

I can't provide visual diagrams, but I can describe the ignition system of a 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport. It typically features a distributor-based ignition system, where the ignition coil receives a signal from the ignition control module, which is triggered by the distributor. The system includes components like the ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs. For detailed diagrams, I recommend checking a repair manual or an online automotive resource.

This answer is based off a 1997 s-10 2wd 2.2 liter 4 cyl:

First you must remove the wheel using 3/4in. socket on air gun, Rachet, breaker bar, or by using a "4-way."

Next, remove the caliper. For this you will need a rachet assembly with a 3/8in Allen head to remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mount. After removing the bolts, pull the caliper off of the rotor.

You will then remove the dust cap using either a chisel or small flat head screw driver and a hammer gently tapping the chisel between the dust cap and te end of the rotor. Once removed you will have access to the cottor pin and nut. Remove the cottor pin with pliers then use the pliers to loosen the nut(which should not be too tight). Place the nut it the dust cap and prevent rust/dust from getting on it. Next hold your hand under the end of the rotor and with your free hand tap against te outside face of the rotor, this should release the washer and outside bearing front the shaft(if not carefully use two flat head screw drivers to work them out(again prevent rust/dust etc from getting on these parts and set them in the dust cap, seeing that you will more than likely reuse them) Now, it is easiest to replace the nut back onto the shaft by a few threads. Gently pull the rotor off while turning it down slightly so that the back bearing catches on the nut and stays on the shaft. Set rotor on a piece of paper towel for now and remove the back bearing. While the rotor is off you might as well clean the wheel sensor, this can be done by covering up the shaft with a CLEAN rag or CLEAN paper towel, and using a magnet and paper towel to remove metal particles/rust/dust from the surface and around the sensor.

Getting the new rotor ready: New rotors come from the factory with a protective film on them, grab a couple paper towels and a can of carbuerator cleaner, with out spraying into the center of the rotor which will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft, spray both front and back surfaces and wipe the film off. Now, you can either reuse the factory grease or purchase new grease, this depends on the quality of the grease within the old rotor, If reusing grease, use a finger(gloved or no glove again choice is yours), to pack the grease around on the inside cylindrical surface of the rotor which again will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft. You can now replace the inside bearing which will have a tapered fit into the new rotor, you will need to install a "wheel seal" after installing the bearing(your part supplier will know the part you need, the wheel seal has two different sides one which is "open" and one side which is not), place the open side into the rotor and gently tap the seal into place, make sure it is seated all the way in and try not to hit the rotor while doing so. you can now slide the rotor onto the shaft and put the outside bearing and washer back on (the washer should fit into a key slot), thread the nut on finger tight until you can just fit the cottor pin back into its hole on the shaft through the nut (pliers can be used due to the fact that the grease on the nut can make this difficult). You can just simply pound the dust cap on with a hammer, but personally I would rather not damage the cap, so for this you will need a larger size flat head screw driver and a hammer. Fit the cap into place and altough this can be tricky, place the screw driver around the outside edge and tap on the screw driver with the hammer all the way around until it is fully seated. I would recommend new pads whenever changing rotors but again that is your choice. If replacing pads simply pull off the old ones and replace with new ones, If reusing old pads lightly sand down the surface to remove any rust/dust. Now just slide the caliper back onto your newly installed rotor. Line up the holes and replace the bolts. once tightened down, I would recommend "seating" the new/old pads to the rotor. Find a road that or parking lot on which you can accellerate up to 30mph and half room to firmly and steadily apply the brakes (This is not to check how fast you can stop, You SHOULD NOT slam on the brakes while doing this process) Repeat the acceleration to 30mph and firmly applying the brakes for a totaly of 4-6 times, again this allows for the new rotors/pads to seat properly against each other. I hope this helps you out and allows you to keep from wasting money at a dealership or shop. W.F.

The starter relay on a 1992 Pathfinder is mounted between the transmission and engine block. The starter uses a gear drive to crank the engine and help it start.

www.sunvisordepot.com.they are great!

A corroded ground wire will cause a fuse to blow. Until the ground wire is cleaned the problem will persist.

replacing the water pump on the deville is no easy task if you can avoid doing it yourself take that option it is an aluminum block that the water pump is bolted to when you take the housing and screws off its a pain to get them back go to a trusted pro labor is around 350 but water pump is enexpensive

you have to take the grill off then there will be 3 screws the bottom one is very hard to take out then just disconect the light and ur done

yes they should fit with some low profile tires.

to remove the stereo from a 1996 GMC Suburban, the dash "housing" that goes from the left side of the headlight switch all the way to the right side of the middle vent & pull out cup holder is just clipped in and pops right off. You might have to turn your ignition key and put the gear shift all the way down to 1st gear and lower your steering wheel (if you have tilt steering.) Once this front part of your dash is off, look on either side of the stereo and you'll see a tab (one on each side) that you can press down. Squeeze down on these tabs at the same time and you will probably feel & hear them click and then you'll be able to slide the stereo right out. Good luck. If i was able to help you, plz let me know. weasle_74@yahoo.com

Generally speaking, night air is no worse or better than day air. It's the same air.

Yes that will but you have to add boosters in the springs if it is not a police package edition

The Mars Pathfinder mission lasted for approximately 83 days, from its landing on July 4, 1997, until its final transmission on September 27, 1997. During this time, it successfully deployed the Sojourner rover, which conducted various experiments and explored the Martian surface. The mission exceeded its initial goals and provided valuable data about Mars.

The reverse light wire on a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder is light blue. Further information may be available in the owner's manual.