Radiators

Standing at front of car, drain plug is near the bottom on the right hand side of radiator. it is black and plastic...plug will not unscrew all the way.....i think about two and a half turns and coolant will start draining. oh yeah, make sure car is not running when you do this!

Removing the radiator is a pain. Worse it trying to replace it. I bought three of them, sent two back, and saw that the third was almost right. The one that I kept I brought to a radiator shop and the core was a close enough match that they were able to use it to fix the old radiator and I put it back in the car.

If you want to flush it, just use a flush machine.

If you want to drain and fill, it's like any other car.

With any 60 degree GM V6 look for as many as two bleeder valves, and consider using a vacuum fill tool to prevent damaged cylinder heads.

If you want to drain and fill a 2.5L I4 engine, filling is special:

Do not remove the radiator cap. This it important.

1)Remove the thermostat housing cap. Remove the thermostat, then add coolant though the opening.

2)Put the cap on, then start the engine and let it idle for about 15 seconds and shut it off.

3)Remove the thermostat housing cap, top off the antifreeze, then install a new thermostat. Put the cap on.

4) Check and correct fluid level in the overflow bottle.

There are radiator sealants available at many auto parts stores. I personally have never been able to get them to work though another good way to seal a leak if it is on the aluminum part of the radiator is to solder it with silver solder.

However, in general the only real solution is a new radiator.

if your in a bind and your desperate and just so happen to have eggs available keep in mind that you can throw a couple of them in your radiator when its still warm and the eggs will cook and when they do they will fill the cracks a little so you can limp it somewhere, no racing.. hope this helps... oh ya do this while its running for those of you with less common sense than us other people

You have a cooling system problem, most likely a stuck thermostat. The thermostats have been a problem in the Mountaineer/Explorer.

If you replaced the thermostat and radiator, the next step after this would be to replace your water pump, radiator pressure cap, check condition of ALL radiator lines and hoses, and replace as necessary. A hose should be replaced if it feels really soft, or if it starting to crack due to the aging rubber they are made of. Once you replace the parts described above have a certified mechanic run a pressure test on your vehicle's colling system. If you still overheat you might have an oil problem. Oil dissipates MOST engine heat but not well enough to do the whole job, which is the reason cars need cooling systems. Once your cooling system checks out see what a mechanic will tell you and I believe the most likely cause would be an oil problem. If oil is not getting to the cylinders properly the engine can overheat really fast and could possibly seize so be careful! Also note you may want to replace the timing belt as well if your car is at least 60,000 miles, or you have never replaced because on most cars the water pump is right near the timing belt. Replacing water pumps is extensive work in labor terms, so you may want to replace the timing belt because if you replace the pump and the timing belt on separate occasions, you'll have to pay the labor both times unless you have the know how to do it yourself.

I'm supposing all other rads on the system are hot? If so, it sounds like you either have a flow problem, check wheel-head and locksheild valves are open. If they are you'll need to determine if water is actually passing the valve when open by un-doing the joint. I assume when you bled the valve air followed by water under pressure followed? If this occurred it's likely there is suitable flow and that the radiator itself is blocked with sediment.

The most cost effective measure is to remove rad and flush out individually with hose pipe, remembering to lock of valves before hand.

Observe how much silt/rust deposits comes out. Flush till clean and refit, open valves and re-bleed, see how you go. Are you using inhibitor in the system do you have an engineer service it every 12 months.

It is just below the lower radiator hose.

Go to your local Parts store and ask for a back flush kit and chemical flush. Follow the directions on each.

its located on the drivers side of the radiator on the side toward the motor on the bottom corner, should be a plastic piece looking like a wing nut

Located on the passengers side of the car about 2 inches from the bottom on the side of the radiator, white plastic nut this is on 97 ford mustang gt

Dex-cool

You will notice two lines going to your radiator from the transmission. One is a service line and one is a return line. The radiator has a transmission cooler built into it. If you have trans fluid in the radiator chances are the trans cooler is leaking. A little trans fluid in the radiator will not affect engine cooling BUT as soon as the pressure drops in that transmission you may very well have radiator coolant sucked into the tranmission and that will ruin a transmission in a hurry. You need to get this checked out as soon as possible.

Calcium, Lime and Rust which is used for the home... most places say not to use it

Drain plug is on the left side of car, if you are underneath. However, this is tricky, since it needs G12 coolant, and you need to make sure that the air is COMPLETELY removed from the system. Good luck!

ok i actually have a 99 mailbu and my cap also just came off, my husband had to litterly pry it off. that's the only way that thing comes off.

I don't have an answer I am also wondering since I went to take mine off today and the inside apparently that has the threads connecting it to the overflow tank stayed on connected and the outer part that you twist came off so now I am stuck with the plug still in and no way to get it out.

Dawn

I had the same problem with my 2001 Malibu. The cap is broken and needs to be replaced. not expensive at all.

Brett

The oil filter is in that area behind the air cleaner box, it could be leaking around it's gasket or loose. The oil cooler lines and lines leading to the engine could be leaking too, they are sealed by o-rings which you can get at an auto parts store as an oil cooler repair kit.

Radiation is energy that comes from a source and travels through space and may be able to penetrate various materials. Light, radio, and microwaves are types of radiation that are callednonionizing. The kind of radiation discussed in this document is calledionizing radiation because it can produce charged particles (ions) in matter

Be careful - some of these products can plug the heater core

Most likely the coolant sensor is bad......The sensor has probably cracked and leaked into the harness, causing the harnes to corrode. Very common problem Check the sensor first!!!!!

Not neccessarily it sounds more like it could be a thermostat problem,water pump not pumping at capacity I mean there could be a clog but highly unlikely would'nt life be grand if all our automobile problems were simple and cheap ones head gasket problem is another culprit but start small and work your way to the big problems the cooling system is a pretty simple system aside from the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor which I have seen cause problems that you would think it could have nothing to do with give that baby a once over as well

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^^^^NOT a thermostat issue. Thermostats are designed to be open when/if they fail. The car would always be cool if the thermostat was bad. Also, because the ECTS has NOT been replaced the gauge can NOT be used as an accurate temperature reading. The PCM uses the sensor to control the fan power. If this sensor is bad then the PCM will not turn the fan on, thus allowing the car to over heat. Replace the ECTS ASAP and move on from there if the issue is not solved!

a thermostat stuck open in fail safe mode WILL cause overheating because the coolant free flows and doesnt have enough capture time in the radiator to let the fans cool,hence the degree ratings on the thermostat for various climates.give good info or dont give it.a removed thermostat or a free flow stuck open will not allow enough cool time for coolant.stopping flow give the radiator and fans the gradual cooling time needed to accomplish this.

Yes. as long as it is distilled water tough.

drainit

well it all depends on you. check it every time you do a oil change.every 3,000 miles look at the overfill tank. but it should last for as long you own the car. and if you want to make shore it does last, give it a radiator flush.

Look towards the car in the front. The plug is located bottom left front of the radiator. You will need square drive to loosen the plug.

Neglect! Failure to change the coolant on a regular basis and failure to use Distilled water with the mix.

using the wrong type of coolant there are different kinds make sure you get the right one for your engine

Drain the radiator by removing the lower hose. Then remove the fan shroud then the oil cooler lines and upper hose/ Then the bolts that hold it in and pull it out. Dispose of the used coolant properly.