Toyota 4Runner

You have a wire shorting somewhere. First place I'd check is where they run from the frame into the door.

On the V-6 engine the drain plug is located between the front wheels. There a skid pan that has a hole in the center of it. You will need a 8 inch extension on a racket with a socket to reach the plug. The opening is about 3 inches in diameter.

Code 41 Throttle position circuit fault

Yes there is a fuse. Determining which fuse protects the antenna motor may require some detective work. It may be the radio fuse, or it may be a separate fuse, perhaps shared with the rear-window defroster grid.

I have found them myself ... my car is a right-hand drive car and the fuses are on the left-hand side, under the dashboard with a protective panel that opens down (protects the fuses from your feet etc)

Here is advice: * Blown fuse or possibly the blower must also be turned on. * i would check the fuse for a/c . failing this i would test the switchin car , then check wiring at compressor

The curb weight of the 2014 Toyota 4Runner is 4400 lbs..

The 2002 Toyota 4Runner has a 32 degrees angle of approach.

103.3"

I believe it's just the same as the 93's, it's on the left side of the drivers foot well...Just behind the plastic wall.. Junction box #2..

depends on how fast you want it. you can go 37r with a set of 280's with ual 1000cc injectors. but it doesnt mean your going to be going threw a drive though getting some burgers with it. also how built is the evo you want the turbo for. i can give u names of turbos. but make sure 40 pound of boost wont blow your motor or tranny right out. stock evo pushes 18

its broke

76 ft. lbs

On 95 with V6 there are 2, one before and one after the catalytic converter(about 3-6 inches) in the exhaust system under the vehicle appx below drivers seat.

I should have mentioned that if you change the diameter of your wheels it will cause an inaccurate speedometer reading. The speedometer is calibrated by telling the needle (you see in the MPH gauge on your dash) the number of times the wheel spins for a given distance. It's programed with OEM specs. So if you make the diameter smaller it will take more rotations of the wheel to go the same distance & larger will take less rotations causing an inaccurate speed reading because the speedometer has no way of knowing you changed the diameter spec. But not to worry there is something that will take care of this. Maybe you've heard of it, Plus One Sizing. It allows for an increase in wheel/tire diameter without significantly changing the "rolling" diameter. As the wheel diameter gets larger the tire gets wider and it's aspect ratio gets lower. This will allow you to keep your speedometer accuracy. There is also Plus Two & Plus Three ect depending on how large you want/can go.Search the term Plus One Sizing or Plus One Conversion Chart for more info. Hope this helps. I have a 2000 4Runner SR5 V6 4WD and I just put on 20" Eagle Alloy Chrome VooDoo wheels with 285/50/20 General Grabber UPH tires. No special lift package or anything like that and there is no rubbing at all. OEM on my truck were 16" wheels and 265/70/16 which were not stock but ordered. Stock were 15" wheels with 225/75/15. As you can see I went quite a bit larger than stock. I'm pretty sure that without any modifications they are the largest tires for my truck. I would think you should be able to go that large on your 2004 but a good wheel/tire shop will tell you for sure. Maybe you can go larger. Keep in mind my tires are not All-Terrian.

i have a 96 olds achieva and my high beam light was flashing, i checked the headlights and one of my low beam headlights was out. once replaced the flashing stopped.

6.6

i think so, but i am not sure. i would also like to know for sure.

I had fought this problem for the past two years. Two years ago I took my 1997 Toyota 4 Runner into a shop with the brakes pulsating and the stearing wheel shaking badly. They replaced the rotors, pads and did various other things. Two weeks later I was back in the shop with the pulsating/shaking again. They machined the rotors and I was on my merry way. So I thought! A month later the brakes are doing it again and I had spent so much money and time trying to deal with this that I just let it go. I finally took it to a great Toyota mechanic at a Toyota dealership and they explained to me that the shop before had used like generic parts and that the back brakes were out of adjustment. The back brakes were carrying only 10 percent of the stopping power and this was causing these cheap rotors to overheat and warp. He explained to me that it is very important to use Toyota parts on their vehicles. And make sure that your back brakes are adjusted to specs. Hope this helps and saves you some time and money. The true fix to this problem was a bit costly but it is done right with the right parts and now I feel safe again.

I'm not exactly sure what your buzz sounds like but mine kind of does that too and mine sounds like its the motor for your antena for the radio and its just lowering the antena

Towards the rear of the engine, near the bottom. If you are under the car you can see it between the front axel and front exhaust mount.

If you are looking over the engine, look between the bulk head and the engine, right down.

[img]http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp320/pimpslider/starter_1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp320/pimpslider/starter_2.jpg[/img]

It's right at the bottom of the blower motor behind the globe box...

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