Alternators

how to replace the alternator belt of a mitsubishi montero 2000 ?

The battery light will be illuminated on the dashboard and later the battery will go flat as it is not getting charged

Garages can check this for you if your battery is frequently getting flat.

There are three exciter diodes on all alternators. They are connected to the stator windings. The purpose of the diodes is twofold. While the engine is running, it turns off the alternator indicator light and supplies power to the voltage regulator.

The headlights may flicker.

Step1-If you dont have a chilton manual, they are about 15$ and worth every penney!..........Step 1.5...Disconnect negative battery cable. Step2-Insert a 1/2" drive ratchet into the tensioner pulley's center and force it in the relaxed position.(depending on if you have A?C or not it will need to go clockwise or counterclockwise.) Remove serpentine belt from alt pulley. (You may want to change your serpentine belt at this time, they are 30-50 bucks and really easy to change.) Step3-The book says to unplug the wires going into the alternator, but I found it much easier to remove the alt bolts first and rest the unit on the fan shroud while unplugging the pesky little clips that hold the wires on. i REMOVED THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL AT THIS TIME. The lead from the alt to the positive terminal of the btry has a rubber boot on the alt body that you must slide back to reveal a 10mm nut holding it on. Remove this, but save the nut. Step 4-Remove the two short bolts on top of the alt. I think they are 10mm. Remove the two long bolts on the bottom face of the alt. if the wires are disconnected, then simply remove and replace with new unit. Installation is the opposite. Getting the belt back over the pulley can be tricky, so you may want someone to hold down the tensioner while working the belt over the alt pulley. Note !!!! DO NOT HOOK UP THE BATTERY CABLES UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY DONE. Have your auto parts store test your old alt. It may just need a 40$ voltage regulator. Also if your handy, remove the voltage reg ON YOUR OLD ALT with a #20 torx bit and inspect the brushes and shaft. if they are good and you just need a volt reg, you can have one on the shelf! GOOD LUCK! Wade

My Haynes manual says to remove the lower CV joints axle. This means removing the drivers side wheel and draining the tranny. This is an unceessary pain.

I unhooked the brake fluid reservior and undid the master cylinder and tied a rope thru the bolt of the alternator to hoist it up then it came up rather easily.

Bleeding the brakes was a small job compared to the lower method.

This job is foolish hard, Honda did not think it through. Yes you have to take out the half shaft and the brakes , lower ball, full shaft, the whole drivers side, .. But you don't need to bleed anything.. thats foolish . the only reason the holf shaft hase to come out .. is " the alt is just to big it will not go down or back up with out the shaft out. other than that you manual will show you the rest. Its' the same one I have

Fun Fun Fun sgf

to replace an alterantor on this car is a pain in the you know what!! sounds like b.s. but this is what you do. 1-take front driverside wheel off

2-you have to take the drive shaft out of trans.(it takes a 30mm socket w/BREAKER BAR)believe me, this is for the bolt in the center of rotor you'll see it. 3-there is the sway bar and a couple of other things in the way you need to loosen to get out of the way(not necessarily take them off)

4-under the oil filter there is a bracket(3bolts) which holds the cv shaft in place(its part of the shaft) loosen those and once everything else is loose you should be able to pull the cv shaft out. trans. oil will leak be ready(be sure to have alternator already loose when you pull the shaft so you can pull shaft drop alternator throw the new one up there and replace shaft with spilling less oil as possible(ATF-Z1 find it at honda or acura dealer $4)

5-replace everything and have fun best of luck any questions email me cwa702@yahoo.com

I replaced my altenater with out removing the axle. There is a mount that it is connected to the engine block with 3 bolts, if you remove the small mount it will slide out. It took me 2 hours to figure out which way to take it out, but only 10 minutes to put it in. You still have to take the front wheel off.

The last poster is correct. It is not necessary to remove the axle or the brake cylinder. Undo the two alternator mounting bolts and the electrical wiring. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the plastic shield on the fender. If the bolts just spin, use a sharp object to hold the plastic anchor while you remove the bolts. Cut the tyraps holding the rubbber vibration damper on the axle and slide it fully forward towards the wheel. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the suspension fork to allow the fork to move forward. Remove both alternator mounting brackets (the top one may not be necessary - try leaving it on). It may be necessary to remove the front motor mount and lower the motor. I had already done this in hopes I could drop the alternator out the bottom. You can't. Now the alternator will slide out towards the wheel. If it still jams, bend the fender metal slightly with your biggest pliers. Good time to change the oil - the filter is suddenly quite accessible. Thanks, Honda - nice design work. Alan

After reading all the posts on replacing Integra Alternators yesterday,I went with the last two posts for a 1990 Integra GS.However,on my 1989,I could only remove the lower portion shield on the wheel well which is plastic.The upper portion is metal and not easily removed.This gave me enough access to the lower bolt,to remove nut and also to align holes on installation(very tight fit,both for removal and installation).I had to pry the alt.off the bottom bracket and slowly tap it in for installation,then align the bolt hole with a podger or round screwdriver.I was also able to wiggle the alternator in and out thru the bottom after removing the oil filter(killing two birds with one stone as car was on jacks).So I was ablt to do it without removing anything except the oil filter.I know this post is for a 1990,but I wanted to share my experience. .

Hello. You are all wrong. Yes the alternator will come out the bottom of the car. Undo the 3 bolts that the one guy was talking about on the vibration damper for the cv axle. Remove the little shield that covers your power steering lines, it is on the drivers side of vehicle. Last, remove a long screw/bolt directly under the oil filter. Undo the alternator. You will have to do some fancy maneuvering of the alternator. but it will pop out from the bottom. Just did it yesterday. The stabilizer bar kind of gets in the way but pulling on the alternator when it is in the right position, but it will slide past it. Be ready for the alternator to come crashing down on your chest if you don't hold on to it well enough.

Diodes allow current to flow in one direction only thus changing the alternating current produced inside the "alternator", to direct current which is required by your car's electrical system.

Think of them as check valves for liquids.

Denis

On my 1990 Euro it sits right on top of the engine at the firewall, passenger side. There should be 3, possibly 4 bolts to remove it. 1 is in the back of the alternator, (10mm) and the other 2 or 3 are toward the bottom on the block in the front. All are easy to get to. Also, be sure to remove the wires from the back and the remove the plug. It would be a VERY good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable also! It's not a hard job. You can probably do it in less than an hour eaisly. And that's taking the old one off and installing the new one! I have had to do this a few times when I change the 3 back spark plugs!! So I have gotten really good at it. LOL I can change my alternator in about 30 minutes! LOL Hope this helps.

my battery went bad with out warning take it to a auto parts store for a free check they will put a load on it to see if its okay

It happened to me once in my brief 60 years on this earth. The typical 12 volt lead acid car battery is made up of 6 cells, 2 volts each which are connected together internally by lead straps. Rarely strap connections or the straps themselves will fail resulting a 0 volt condition. This would hold true for other internal connections within the battery also ofcourse but this is the one I hear of most. Generally not something to worry about. Practically all battery failure occurs over time and gives plenty of warning in the form of slow cranking.

form_title=Replace Car Alternator form_header=If you're having trouble with the alternator, you might notice problems starting the car or charging the battery. How old is the battery?=_ Has the car been making weird noises when you try to start it?= () Yes () No Is there a brand or aftermarket alternator you would prefer to buy for your car?= () Yes () No

On most cars built within the last 10 years the voltage regulator is built into the alternator.

Tools needed: beer, patience, 14mm socket, 12mm box end wrench (ratcheting preferred); 12mm socket and ratchet; 10mm box end and socket; white paint marker pen; pb blaster (or wd40); nose pliers for hose clamps, courage.

1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and move it out of the way so there is no possibility of it reconnecting inadvertently and showering you with spark!

2. Mark each of the vacuum hoses connected to the air cleaner housing and to the intake manifold - doing this will help immensely with getting everything back together correctly when memory fails! A white marker paint pen works wonders. Alternatively, the ubiquitous cell phone, to take digital pictures as a record of where everything fits, is a marvelous tool...different strokes..!

3. Carefully disconnect the two or three vacuum hoses going to the air cleaner housing (2), and about 4 connected to the driver side of the air intake manifold and move them out of the way; The idea is to get enough space to work on the alternator mounting bolts;

4. Undo the five quick release clamps (1 on top) from the air filter housing cover and remove the air-cleaner/filter and cover from near the firewall; there should be two clamps on the driver side and two on the passenger side. The inclination to "horse" things off means something is still connected.

5. Once the air filter and housing cover are removed, move to the passenger side fender and look down into the maw of the beast. At bottom right of the air filter housing base, there should be a quick release circular clamp securing an air intake hose (about 2.5 inches) to the air intake housing. Undo the clamp;

6. Next, to remove the air cleaner housing base -- remove the two stainless/chrome bolts and washers (the washers cover rubber grommets and can fall into the abyss and be lost forever, so be careful!) at the top of the housing -- there should be a ground wire connected from the firewall to the driver side housing bolt. Again, be sure to undo the quick release clamp from the bottom air pipe before trying to remove the air cleaner housing base - it is not obvious! Once the top two bolts are removed gently wiggle the air cleaner base off the back of the intake manifold; there are two rubber grommets in two plastic holders that keep the air housing base rattle-free and secure; wiggling it gently up and back toward the firewall will get it off...whew!!!

7. Locate the alternator mounting bracket - it is sort of triangular and is right above the water pump near the driver side fender; loosen the alternator tensioner nut (12mm) - it is on the longish bolt facing the firewall and is right near the water pump belt near the driver side firewall; using a 12mm box end wrench loosen the bolt that holds the alternator to the mounting bracket in front (engine side) of the tensioner bolt. This is a POS (read that piece of s***) bolt and takes forever to loosen because of the lack of space and inability to get a socket wrench in. If you have a 12mm ratcheting box end wrench, use it; will make it quicker, easier, and less of a b****!

8. After loosening the alternator mounting bolt and tensioner bolt, push the alternator toward the engine (toward the front of the engine bay) and slip off the drive belt from the pulley. If the alternator does not move forward, the lower mounting bolt is tight and will need to be loosened.

9. Fit a shallow 14mm socket onto a wrench, and feel around under the alternator mount for the second mounting bolt nut; place it on the nut and loosen the nut (counterclockwise direction). Loose now? Good! Don't remove the lower mounting bolt yet!

10. Using a 10mm socket, undo the bolt holding the two thick covered cable bunches attached to the intake manifold and put in a safe place; one of these wrapped cables comes from the driver side fender and the other from the top of the intake manifold; a bracket holds these two in place at the driver's side of the intake manifold. They only need to be moved a little bit, so don't' horse them around in any way -- bad karma!

11. Next, pivot the alternator back toward the firewall -- the loosened cables should now allow room to move the alternator out to where it is accessible! Using a 10mm socket undo the nut holding the wire at the top of the alternator and disconnect the wire. Now, reach under the alternator and pull out the long 2nd mounting bolt -- it has a large square head.

12. Now for the hardest part -- the main connector was a PITA, and only because I am filled with grace was I able to disconnect it without breaking it (or using very descriptive and highly colorful and imaginary language). This is the largish green plug with about four wires coming out of it. If the bottom mounting bolt is removed, the alternator can be twisted up so the back is clearly visible. The green plug has a thin plastic release bar that needs to be pressed down while pulling the plug out at the same time.

On my 89 Probe it overcharged because I needed a new alternator. Sometimes a bad computer causes "spikes" in the voltage. In this case, turn the headlights on at night, if they flicker like high beams, then the computer is NG. -CE

I got a 96 XE and it was trouble fcor a while. There's a pinch bolt facing forward on the top bracket to the alt. Loosen this pinch bolt, then loosen the long bolt going through a bracket and through the alternator. You may have to remove the splash guard under the engine to reach it but it will let the alt. pivot. Third, move the alt. to loosen the belt by turning the longer bolt next to the pinch bolt. Yhis will move the square piece. To tighten I would tighten the long lower bolt enough to barely move the alt. by pushing with a little force. Then tighten the bolt through the square piece which will tighten belt. Check belt tension while tightening the pinch bolt. Readjust as necessary to achieve proper belt tension. Lastly tighten the lower long bolt securly. I used some loc-tite to keep from vibrating loose.

Such an easy belt change! I learned how after overtightening and cracking the upper bracket and bending the bolt as well. I wish "I" had asked someone first....

a weak battery will not cause an engine vibration.

Have you checked the Alternator? Like most batterys in cars, trucks, ect, they tend to get dirty. A slow battery drain is more than likely caused by a high resistance ["mini"] short between your positive and negative [+/-] terminal posts. To check this, attach one lead of a low volt meter to the positive [+] post of the battery, and then draw the other lead across the top of the battery. If the meter shows any voltage at all, that's the problem, as it indicates current flow. Wash the battery with a mixture of baking powder & water, and rinse. Be sure the cell covers or plugs are in tight, or if the baking soda solution gets into the battry cells, it will ruin the acid electrolyte. Dry the area between the posts & check with the meter again. ==Answer 3 == While answers 1 and 2 are not wrong, there could be a similar high resistance fault [or mini short] to ground anywhere in the wiring system WHICH IS "HOT" ALL THE TIME [even when the ignition switch is OFF]. One example of this would be where a wire was pinched between two grounded metal body components, or pulled tightly around a sharpe edge of a sheet metal component, with a resultant pinching, chaffing, or cutting of the wire insulation allowing only minimal minimal contact to the grounded component. That would allow a small flow of current which, when the alternator is not generating electricity, would create a small, but continuous drain on the battery. Also, there could be many other possible which I cannot recall at the moment. j3h

I just had my alternator replaced (at a shop). They told me the mechanic had to "rip the entire front end off" to get to it.

Yes. and it will cost around $130.00 at the parts store. it also requires alot of skill to replace. it is soldered in and the alternator brushes are also involved. They need to be pinned out of the way to reinstall. Unless you are equipped and have a good working knowledge of alternators you will be better off purchasing a quality rebuilt. a quality rebuilt will cost you around $200.00

Remove fan clutch with fan impeller. Remove A/C compressor drive belt. Remove cap from tensioning roller. Relieve tension on drive belt. Remove drive belt. Reverse procedure for installation.

Minimum 14 - 14.5.

Where is the fuse for the aoternator kia sorento 2006

You can buy a Bosch rebuilt alternator from your auto supply store. Generally they cost around the $100 - $200 range.

have a load test performed on the battery. sometimes they will show 12 volts and still discharge. otherwise you are going to have to find where power is getting to ground or what is using power while the ignition is off. first place to go would be any aftermarket add ons like stereos or amps, then with the ignition off check for open circuits at the fuse block, the only ones that should have power are dome lights and outside lights.