Car Shaking Problems

Yes, balancing is matching the tire to the rim. No two tires or rims are exactly the same and so balancing is always required when mounting a different tire to a rim.

worn front end parts (steering or suspension) could cause a car to shake when appling the brakes.

I had a vib in the front end of 2001 sable with about 25,000 miles. dealer tried new tires- rims ,realinement about every thing then ford corp. OKed new axles and that fixed it.

One of the most common problems I have found which are manifested by excess vibration in the area of tire/wheel that is not cured by rebalancing has to do with the condition of the tire. If a tire that is out-of-round is balanced, the out-of-round condition is not cured. What that means is that, while the balancing ensures that the tire/wheel assembly will not deviate abnormally from the forward/backward plane as you drive(side-to-side), there exists nothing to prevent its up-and-down movement due to its shape(oval or ellipsoid). Another common problem, potentially dangerous, is tire separation. Should a tire begin to separate, that separation may not be readily apparent without a road-test, at which time it will be noticed that the steering wheel shakes violently when certain road speeds are reached. To locate the offending tire, it is advisable to move the front tires, one at a time, to the rear of the car. In so doing, you should notice a distinct difference in the car's behavior when driven once the culprit is moved from the front. Note: If you have just had your tires replaced and the wheels balanced, there may be another explanation for the problem, assuming it did not exist prior to this: The stub-end of an old tire-valve trapped inside the tire. I have encountered this problem at various times; and, what happens is this: The tire purchase is made, and the tire man pulls your wheels off of your car. The wheel/tire assembly is put onto the tire machine, and the valve core is removed from the valve, letting the air escape so that the tire may be dismounted. The tire is then removed from the wheel. A new tire is now chosen and mounted onto the wheel. Next up is a new valve. The replacing tool is screwed onto the old valve, which is then pulled free from the wheel, out of its hole. Most of these do not come out whole. The "bottom"? Well, that falls innocently away. A new tire valve is now installed, being pulled into place with the same tool used to remove the old one. The tire is then aired-up, sealing the bead, and is moved to the balancing machine, where it is spun by computer-control and indexed for weights to be attached. This done, all is well, right? Not exactly... You see, that innocent little piece of old tire valve which fell innocently away when removed isn't actually innocent at all; but is, in reality, a nefarious little critter which has stowed away inside the new tire, now balanced--- or so it was thought... In reality, that little hunk of rubber rolled around inside the tire on the balancer just until the spin of the tire created sufficient force to make it stay in one place while the tire was spinning.... This is where it resided when the computer indexed the tire's proportional weight characteristics and where upon the rim certain weights were to be placed. Guess what: All of that changed when the tire came to rest, allowing the gremlin to fall to the bottom of the interior cavity--- and it will continue to change every time the tire moves. That is, of course, until the tire is broken back down, and the little imp is removed. Many times this situation can be detected with a good ear once the tire is jacked up and spun. If you hear something rolling around inside your tire, it's back to the tire shop. Balancing tires properly can only take place when nothing is trapped inside the tire. Another thing to consider is lug-nut torque. Over- or under-torqued lug-nuts can be dangerous, as well as a nuisance--- especially when aluminum wheels are involved. Tightening lug-nuts beyond their intended torque can warp a brake rotor, as can torquing them down unevenly or by not following the proper tightening sequence. This can result in a pulsation in the brake pedal, a shimmy in the steering wheel, possibly broken studs, and potentially the loss of a wheel while driving--- and that ain't good... And aluminum wheels: After initially mounting these and torquing them down, they require a re-torque after they are driven a short distance(20 miles or so), and a final re-torque after another 50-100 miles. This is due to the fact that the aluminum of which the wheels are made expands at a different rate when heated than does the steel to- and with which- it is bolted. If these are not properly torqued and re-torqued, the heat generated at the wheel serves to create a gap between mounting surfaces which grows--- and you end-up with lug-nuts that are only finger-tight, if that much. This is dangerous... Finally; anything which is worn in the steering or suspension can cause such a problem, as can a bad cv-joint, or a bad bearing. It wouldn't be fun to find out that a tie-rod end was bad by having it come apart while driving down the road, allowing a wheel to go whatever direction it was so inclined toward, rather than where you intended it to go through steering... A good front-end inspection goes a long way--- be safe... Hopefully, something here will be of help. Rotsa ruck.... jb

could be a broken engine mount.

Tell me more. The axle being replaced brings up questions. Was it wrecked and bent an axle? Second of all tell me about your tire and wheel package. Make and model of tires and wheels including tire size. I assume the truck did not do it with the old wheels and tires? I will help, just need some more info. When and where does the vibration occur? In the steering wheel, seat, and any relationship when applying the brakes?

You have a misfire - engine related, not tranny...get the engine checked/tuned up...etc... dave

Tires and/or wheels out of balance?

P0455 and P0452 have to do with fuel vapor leaks, will not cause a starting problem.

P0340 is a cam sensor code.

You need to diagnose for a failed cam sensor.

if u havnt rotated your tires before that would be your awnser if you never rotate them should be every 2 oil changes then u may need new tires

Stop or slow down? It sounds like a loose/worn suspension.

If it is a diesel engine it could be the glow plugs.

You may have a bent rim or damaged the tire.

I'd first check the balance of the rear wheels at a local tire shop. The one with the computer balancer. If the wheels are okay, then the rear axle bearings might be worth a check. The rear wheels also might need aligning though that's a tire issue. Not often, the wheel itself may be defective or the tire.

Could be as simple as being in need of a tune up.

Couple things come to mind. -improper caliper operation -abnormally worn brake pads -rotor plate abnormally worn -even a suspension missalignment

if fan is belt driven you have a worn fan clutch check where shaft enters clutch if there is any leaks or clumps of road grime sticking to fan clutch its lost its internal oil supply causing slippage some clutches will slip when engine is cold and automatically spin faster as temp rises this is called a thermostatically controlled fan clutch also w/engine off grab fan firmly and check for any play between blade and shaft replace as needed

Hopefully you only knocked the wheels out of alignment. Have them checked.

There are a lot of old engine sensors that may have changed values slightly with 200k miles of use. The cylinder compression may be lower at start up due to piston ring and cylinder wall wear. The fuel pump may have less pressure than when new. Also try waiting 5 secomds after cutting on the ignition, for the fuel pump to pressurize the lines, then see if it cranks right up.

could need a tire balancing. Also check the tires to see if you dont have a bubble on one of them

it could be as minor as a tune up (spark plugs and wires)(or bad distributor coil pack). or possibly a faulty fuel injector.

If you are in Full time it is recommended not to go over 25mph that is probly why it shakes put it in part time you can go up to 55 mph in part time

The problem is typically related to tire balance, but it can also be a bent wheel. Also make sure the suspension and steering linkage is tight.

Your first step should be to have the tires balanced. Go to a tire store that you trust. Stay away from the big box stores and try to focus on a local shop that has a good reputation.

Is called the aspect ratio.

If your car's tires are out of balance it will usually cause a vibration or thumping.

If your wheel alignment is out it will usually cause the car to pull to one side.