Car Starting Problems

On most newer cars the solenoid is mounted on the side of the starter. It should be a long round part where the power wires are connected to.

A lot of newer VW's have to be reprogrammed by the dealer just to restart after the battery has been completely drained. Sure hope it's not that, costs a lot from the dealer, sometimes they even have to come to the vechile itself to reprogram it since it won't come out of park sometimes. Good Luck!!!!

If the engine is of the same type it will. ie an XUD engine (1905cc) from one peugeot or citroen will fit another xud type but I do not know if it would fit on a HDi engine. On the 1.9 XUD the starter is the same on turbo and nonturbo models.

v8 passenger bottom side of engine.

keys have to be reprogram to the cluster

dead battery or charging system failure.

Sounds too simple to be true but check your battery and bat. cable connections. You need all the cold-cranking amps you can get.

You probably need a new set of plug wires. If the ones on it are original, they are probably breaking down and have a lot of resistance as opposed to a new set.

== ==

sounds like you need new belts Your brake pads could also be wet

turn steering wheel to left tight while turning key

you should have marked the distriputer and the actual intake before removal, if not you will need to go at it the old fashion way like i did , get the number 1 piston to tdc on the combustion stroke and point the distriputar with the number one tower facing the number one piston and leave lose enough to turn by hand and time by ear, you want to get it close , if you got a triming light that will help(use a white out pen out pen to mark your timinging mark by the book ,should be zero or maybe 7 btdc and dissconnect the computer so it wont try to compennsate immediatly, its a brown wire with black strip on the fire wall either driver or passerger side)if not what you can do is after you do all the previous mentioned stuff, get to about 2000rpm till you hear the valves start to chatter then back it off about a 1/16-`1/8 a retard turn and lock it down .if stil to hig of ide and the valves arent chattering turn town the ide which should be around 650-675rpm it might take a few times but dont worry the 350 are tuff

we have put on altenator, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, starter and the relay looks good and nothing has fixed the problem

A sing l e click is usually a failed starter. A repeated fast click is either a weak battery or a dirty battery cable.

bad fuse,bad coils, bad ignition modual

Yes, it just depends on which fuse.

It could, along with many others causes.

yes, more so with more modern cars as digital or computerized or transistor ignition re used more

Normally red or brown. The battery has a + stamped into it by the positive terminal. Follow the wires, on a modern car the positive will go to the alternator and starter. The negative wire (easier to follow) will go to the body/engine block

Usually means one of the needle-and-seat assemblies is stuck in the open position or has some dirt preventing proper closing. Sometimes you can get away with pulling the assembly out of the bowl and blowing it off with compressed air. Other times you may need to take the bowl off and clean it more thoroughly.

It can often be started by timing problems, a faulty distributor cap or a bad intake valve.

ALTINATOR OR STARTER. JUMP START CAR, TAKE POSITIVE CABLE OFF BATTERY,IF CAR DIES IT IS ALTERNATOR. GOOD LUCK

First make sure that the battery terminals are clean,also the negative ground cable going to the fender is clean,and at the subframe (passenger side) to the block.I would suggest removing the cable and sand these areas and reinstall.Now if the battery is fully charged,and the alternator is working properly(check with a mulitmeter for at least 12.5 volts average).Now if both are good by the above I would suggest checking for voltage at the coil itself with the key ON only.It should show at least the same voltage as above.If not replace the coil.This should fix the issue,unless the battery grounds were poor,or the ignition cylinder itself is not making proper contact to actually work as it should and not start the truck normally.The ignition is a touchy area where it can cause a variety of problems like ,no power to the hvac fan control,dash warning lights,or even a no start symptom,or no gauges working on the cluster.I suggest the simple stuff first battery,alternator,coil,and ground wire being cleaned.

it's time for a tune up, I've owned two 1997 Chevy tahoes and both times spark plug and wires and distribitor cap replacement fixed the starting problem both times.

Check firing order

try replacing the spark plugs