Car Starting Problems

check the slave cylinder for cluch when cold try pumping cluch pedal 4 or 5 times then hold depressed and try to start cylinder is by passing must activate nut switch

if starter is turning but not cranking engine, u need to replace starter or starter solenoid and yes i have had a starter go out just like that and when mine went out i was 90 miles from a new one had to get a buddy bring one out

Along with the ignition switch, there's a neutral safety switch that could be bad, VATS key chip relay if you have this, and possibly fusible links near the battery. Other than that, it COULD be the starter relay. The wire from the ignition should be either purple or red at the solenoid. If there is a small black wire at the solenoid, it should come right from the battery. The VATS can definitely open this, better if you don't have the chip key when this happens. Find the procedure to wire around it, at least temporarily until you verify it is not the problem. Good luck.

THE FIRING ORDER IS 1-4-3-6-2-5

try removing the negative lead on the battery for about 30 min that will reset your computers

Do a compression test. I'm not sure but the engine may not be a non-interferance engine which means it may have bent valves or more damage.

Valet mode bypasses your security system, so being in Valet mode should not disable your car. Cycle the valet switch a couple of times and try again. In case you don't know how, the switch is often behind the indicator lamp, if not, look for a small button just above your gas and brake pedals. If you know the model of system you have, look up the manual online.

check that the wire on the sylenoid is hooked up. also, check for clean connection to the battery terminals. I have one that looks clean but if it's not bright and shiny, it causes problems.

See if you can jump start it. (make sure you put the cables on right... RED TO POSITIVE!)

Once the vehicle is started, drive it to an auto parts retailer in your area and have the battery and charging system checked.

USUALLY, once a battery starts throwing acid... it's done.

There is a fuel shut off switch in the trunk, ( INERTIA SWITH ) It needs to be reset, and theres a button on it , PUSH IT

Hey Johnny==Either the battery cable needs cleaning or replaced. It may be loose in the end. Also make sure you have a good ground between the engine and the body. Goodluck Joe

how do you know the battery is charged? also it could be a loose battery wire. they need to be properly thighten so the energy could flow. if there are no lights theres no power coming from the battery.

Sounds like a fuel problem. First change the fuel filter. If the problem presists after this, look at other areas such as the fuel pump, fuel pressure regualator, etc.

hello i need to know what wires i need to hook up for my aftermart remote start in in 94 Chevy s-10 truck with a 2.2 motor

Timing belt?? If there is a section of the timing belt with no teeth on it, it might be turning till it get to that point, slipping causing it to turn over fast, grabbing enough to turn over normal, but would not be able to start because it is now out of time.

i have a 1984 bronco 2 and the ignition control mod went bad on it. It turned over but had no spark. The part was about 40 dollars and is located on the distributor. It takes a special tool to take it off. I changed mine and it started first try.

Probably shorted it out and may have damaged the wiring harness. You need to look at what circuits were affected and start by checking all the fuses. Look for melted wiring (re:smoke you saw) and find out why the 15 amp fuse didn't blow before damage was done. Is it possible you grounded the circuit? Does it feed the computer (computers run a 5 volt). You really need to give more info (engine size?) when you ask a question like this & give symptoms. For eg: power on (lights etc) but won't crank. Will crank but won't fire. Some systems work eg: brake lights but others eg: won't. What area of car did smoke come from? underhood, under dash (left side/right side), down by starter, near alternator, at fuse box, etc, etc, etc.

check the rotor botton in the dizzy

possibly the wire from the coil to the cap, or a cracked distrib. cap, or a worn rotor, have you checked your ignition module?

if this is a differant problem than why you changed the starter in the first place then recheck to make sure all wires are connected if symptoms are the same then:- if the starter is OK (dont assume because its new) and the battery is OK (should read about 12.6 volts)then you must assume that you are suffering from a loss of power down the starter cable or the earth return system. if you know how, then check voltage drop on this cables whilst cranking if not then check all connections to terminal including all the earth conections, do not forget the one from the engine to the chassis. under normal power uses they probably would not cause a problem but because the starter draws alot of current a 0.2 voltage drop across any cable or connection will cause the starter to click (has enough power to throw the pinion in (click) but not enough power to turn the engine. if the battery is reading 12 volts then it is low on charge and will cause similar fault, it should read 12.6volts hope this helps robb

The typical reason a 1994 Ford van stutters without starting is related to fuel. Since gas is in the tank, the problem can be the fuel injector valves. Cleaning the injectors may help.

check your starter relay first, next have some one use a test light and see if the starter is getting fire from the switch second, if this checks out, the starter is bad or your you have a dead spot in the armiter inside the starter in which case the starter will haft to be replaced... i had the same problem and after lots of work i hope to save you, this should give you all the information to help save you all the trouble i went thru to get this information.... good luck

How hot did it get before you shut down? Overheating an engine can warp a head and end up with a blown head gasket. Run a compression test to check.

Sounds like your battery was weak to start with. What you did should not have caused any problems if your battery was in good condition so without seeing it, I think you should remove your battery and have your battery charged and load tested.

It could be leaking back through the fuel pump check valve or the pressure regulator or even leaking through a damaged or gummed injector. If it's just loosing pressure, the simple fix would be to turn the key on for a couple seconds but not engage the starter, then turn it off then start the engine. That should let the engine start a little easier provided that it's just leaking at the fuel pump or the regulator. Before you throw a lot of money at a fuel pump, injectors and/or regulator, try a little injector cleaner first. It might just be that you have a small amount of deposits on one of the above mentioned parts, and a little cleaner might be all you need. Good luck