Car Starting Problems

Take it to an auto parts store; they usually test 'em for free.

sounds like your starter moter is worn out

To replace it remove the battery terminal so you will not have power. Loosen the bolts (use liquid wrench or wd40 for this will be rusty) exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (driver side) and then you need to loosen the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold to the part where it connect exhaust pipe from the other side of the exhaust manifold (passenger side) and then you need to loosen the electrical wire from the starter and then loosen the bolts that connect the starter now you can wiggle the starter to pull it out you need to try to figure out how to get it through the loosen exhaust pipe ( but it should come out)

There are two possible causes. One is lack of spark and the other is lack of fuel. You will need to determine which one you don't have. To check spark all you really need to do is remove one of the spark plug wires from a spark plug and using a plastic pair of pliers or something equivalent, have someone crank the engine and watch for spark. If there is no spark at the plug, you could have a few different things wrong like a crankshaft sensor bad. I am not sure what engine you have but I will assume that you have the 5.3 or 6.0L engine. These engines do not have a distributor. If you have a 5.7L it does have a distributor and a single ignition coil. If you have a single coil then you can remove the coil wire and check for spark at the coil in the same way that you did at the spark plug. To check fuel pressure you will need a fuel pressure gauge and it will hook to the schrader valve located on the passenger side of the intake manifold just below the engine cover. Has the fuel filter been replaced lately or atleast checked? If it is plugged that may be your problem. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge you could remove the fuel filter and crank the engine to see if you have fuel coming out. If no fuel comes out you may have a bad fuel pump or no power to the fuel pump. Make sure to check the fuel pump fuse which will be located in the electrical junction block under the hood on the driver side. Also check the ECM "B" fuse. An electric fuel pump is good for about 100,000 miles give or take. If you have close to this mileage on your vehicle it is a safe bet that your fuel pump has gone out on you. I hope this helps and good luck.

For the sake of future people searching the internet for solutions to this problem, here's my answer after having the same problem this morning and dealing with it.

If you have basic mechanical skills (can operate a screwdriver without putting an eye out), here's a $50 full repair. It only takes 30 mins too!

Here's some photos and instructions that I didn't find until AFTER I wrote mine out. Ugh oh well

http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/497529-new-ignition-cylinder-help.HTML

-Remove the "knee" trim panel (two screws on the bottom)

-Remove the plastic surrounding the steering column (three hex screws on bottom/front) to expose the lock assembly

-there's a black ring surrounding the lock face, carefully remove it by removing the 4-wire electrical connector (this is what senses your key's transponder) and remove the single Phillips screw. Pull it off and move it to the side.

-if the key doesn't insert, use the handle of a large screwdriver and tap it into the lock. it takes a bit of tapping, but nothing extreme, just don't break the key off!

-once the key is in, turn it to accessory mode

-the only thing holding the key cylinder in place is a single small retainer button. It's facing the back of the steering wheel. It needs minimal amount of pressure to press it, but a screwdriver won't fit. Try a bent paper clip.

-once depressed, use your other hand to pull the whole cylinder out.

-go to your ford dealer with your VIN number and some basic proof of ownership. Ask for a "key code". He will provide a four-digit code with a letter at the end (FYI, the key code is the actual size measurement/order of the pistons in your lock cylinder, it corresponds to your keys "bumps" or cut)

-Once you have the code like "2403X" you can buy a cylinder on eBay, there's a guy selling new ones for $50 shipped. just search for "Focus ignition cylinder"

-after you order, call them up and provide the keycode and he will rekey the lock for free to match your old key, he'll also provide you with matching cut accessory keys.

-Most likely your key is a transponder key (it has a big black molded plastic top). There's a radio emitter in there that MUST be within about a foot of your key slot. Remove the original key from the old lock if you can, or at worst just cut it off at the base. You must leave that on your key ring with the new key for it to work (unless you have a spare transponder key, they're like $150)

-replace the new cylinder in reverse order and you're good to go!

I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY OVER YOUR ACTIONS, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Technically with the transponder by the sensor, a simple screwdriver will turn the socket and start the car. I haven't tried it but if you REALLY need use of the car and can't wait a few days for the new part, it's a possibility. Be ready for the cops to ask questions if they see you though!

good luck!

Turn the AC or the Defroster off.

Because the windshield wiper is on.

if the check brake light is on, the accumulator is bad. this part will run 700.00for a rebuilt one. the other option is to replace the brake system with a non anti-lock brake system

what happens when it dosent start a click dose it try to turn at all

it does not turn at all</ there is no nose at all and dose not trun over and the lights do not dim. We took the starter off had it checked and they said it was good, put it back on and it started. Next day went to the gas station put gas in it and nothing wouldn't start. Pushed it ten feet tryed it stated right up.

Ballast resistor? Distributor pick up plate? I put in a new resistor and pulled one of the plugs it has spark

On many cars in takes a 9/32 recessed deep well soket

you need a starter its going out on you. The clutch switch may need adjustment. There is a switch which MUST be depressed when you step on the clutch. This is a safety feature to prevent the car from lurching forward when you start a car with a standard tranny. On mine, the floor mat prevented the cluch from being fully depressed and activating the switch. A simple adjustment of the switch fixed the problem. Note: the switch is threaded with a small lock nut to lock it in place. Definitely a starter solenoid problem. When your battery voltage is high enough the solenoid will work. When it drops slightly, the solenoid will only produce a clicking sound. Either your battery is marginal (Do a load test/voltage test on the battery) or the solenoid is beginning to break down. If you cannot replace the solenoid separately, you will have to replace the starter.

Battery Or The Terminals Are Not Making Good Contact And Need To Be Cleaned. I Would Test This First. Next Your Starter Could Have A Few Problems. Worn Bushings, Brushes, Weak Armature, Solenoid. Ect. Check Out Your Battery And Battery Terminals. This May Take Care Of It. One Other Thing Have Your Alternator Tested. You Can Have This Done At Most Garrages Without Removing It. In order to correct a problem, you MUST KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THAT PROBLEM. This requires an analysis of the symptoms, and an understanding of how components operate in order to first eleminate all those things which COULD NOT cause the symptoms. Then continue to eleminate, one by one, the other components which COULD cause the symptoms. If I understand your question, you say that when "you "'jump' the starter, it fires right up..." Since you didn't mention otherwise, I have to assume you used the battery in the vehicle to jump the starter. This suggests SEVERAL things: 1. There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH THE STARTER, not bushings, brushes, or weak armature. IF ANY of these were the problem, then "jumping out the starter" would not cause it to "fire right up..." 2. The same is true for "checking the battery." The battery is fine, or "jumping' the starter would not fire it right up. Also, to jump, requires clamping a jumper cable[s] onto the battery terminal cable clamp[s] which are clamped onto the battery terminal posts, suggesting that there is nothing wrong with either the terminal posts, or the connection of the terminal clamps to the posts. 3. Since the battery is in good strong shape [obviously, as it cranks the engine, and "it fires right up"], there is NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR. There is no need to have the alternator tested, unless you just feel like taking the time, and spending the money a garage will charge. Now, let's analyze what COULD cause the ONLY symptom you mention: "...turn the key and NOTHING happens..." Consider WHAT turning the key DOES. On your vehicle, turning the key completes a circuit from the battery positive terminal post to the start terminal in the ignition switch, then via a small wire to a small terminal on the starter solenoid on the starter. Then current is fed through the coil [activating the coil] inside the solenoid to ground, and thence back to the negative terminal post on the battery. When the solenoid coil is activated, it becomes an electromagnet, which pulls the plunger in, which does two things: 1] engages the starter gear teeth into the teeth on the engine flywheel, and 2] closes a very heavy duty contact switch inside the solenoid which connects the positive battery terminal [via a heavy cable (positive)] to the starter winding, causing the starter to turn, cranking the engine. SINCE NOTHING HAPPENS when the key is turned, it is concluded that the problem is an "OPEN CIRCUIT" condition in this circuit [battery positive terminal to starter solenoid. Ther are several things which could cause such an open circuit: 1. A broken or cut wire. 2. A disconnection at any terminal[s] in the circuit. 3. A failed fuse or fusible link in the circuit. 4. A failed, defective contact within the ignition switch. 5. A broken wire [very small] in the coil winding inside the solenoid. The next step is to use a multi-meter or test light to check for and confirm the presense of 12 volts at the small wire terminal [coil terminal] ON the starter solenoid. To make this test, the STARTER SWITCH MUST BE HELD IN the START position WHILE the test is being made. IF there IS voltage AT THIS TERMINAL, when the key is in the START position, then the failure, and your problem, IS INSIDE the STARTER SOLENOID. IF there is NOT 12 volts in the above test, then the problem is an open somewhere else in the circuit, somewhere between the battery positive terminal and the coil terminal on the solenoid. The next step is to use the multi-meter or test light to check for 12 volts at the input terminal on the ignition switch. If there is NO voltage there, then the "open" in the circuit is between there and the positive terminal on the battery. If there IS voltage there, then check for voltage at the OUTPUT terminal ["Starter" TERMINAL] of the ignition switch, WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH HELD IN THE "START" POSITION. If there is voltage there, the ignition switch is OK, and the open circuit problem is in the wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid coil terminal. All of this is very tedious and time consuming, THAT'S WHY auto service work at a shop is so expensive. There is another way to approach the solution to this problem. I call it the "SHOTGUN METHOD," and consists of simply replacing components [ignition switch, starter solenoid, and starter] until the problem goes away. There are TWO FLAWS in this approach: 1. It is VERY EXPENSIVE TO UNNECESSARILY REPLACE these parts, and 2. After doing so, if the problem is NOT SOLVED, then that tells you the problem is an open in the wiring circuit, and you STILL HAVE TO TROUBLESHOOT the entire wiring circuit.

Check it somewhere and ask mechanics

Do the dash lights come on now that you have put in a new fuse...Does the motor rotate or try to turn over....If not, it sounds like you have a bad ignition switch....

i changed plugs on my 2000 sentra it should be the same procedure just loosen the screws to the four caps on the top of ur block and take them out and replace 1 by 1 if u have the paper i would go with pre-gapped plugs preferably platinum NGK

On the firewall side of the engine, there are two wires that twist around each other. The wires connect the crank position sensor on the block to the ICM/coil pack. The wiring sometimes gets baked on the rear exhaust manifold and shorts out. Got "new" wiring harness from junk yard.

To reset the computer, disconnect the negative battery cable, turn the ignition switch on, then back off, and rehook the battery after about 15-30 minutes.

1200 RPMS

the water type is a white sea otter.the fire type kind of looks like a turtwig with a pig nose.the grass type has a head that looks like treeko and a snake body.the sea otter kind of looks like piplup.

Could be starter solenoid if not cranking. Double check batt with a voltmeter/hydrometer & if ok, use a test light to see if solenoid is getting juice, if it is, that may be your culprit. If battery down, then try a jump.

A 2008 mazda 3 has a size class "35" battery (confirm this when you purchase with your vehicle specifics). As for CCA, that battery will generally be in the 400-600 area for CCAs.

The buzzing sound is possibly the starter solenoid, sounds like battery is low or stater motor is stuck.

The head is naval slang for the toilet. "Head" can also be a sexual reference (to oral sex).