Car Starting Problems

It sounds like a low voltage issue which could stem from a charging system issue or dirty contacts on cable ends or a battery with diminished reserve capacity or a combination of any of the above . A complete electrical system analysis is in order here .

Starter relay is broken

If the problem disappears when the shifter in placed in neutral it could be a transmission or engine mounts

It sounds like the fluid pump is out, or almost out. Having to "re-start" the engine for it to shift right is definatly an electrical problum, and is very common on these transmissions. What you are doing is reseting the transmissions T C M,{or brain} it will shift right again, until it gets a code for a problem, then it wont shift right again.

It is probably going into "limp" mode which is a safety feature for these transmissions, which may seem aggravating, but is actually to your advantage.

It will get you to take the vehical to a shop to see whats wrong, before to much damage is done.

These transmissions are actually a great invention by Chrysler, and one of the best out there if rebuilt with all the up-dates and fixes they have made over the years.

Its truley an amazing transmission if you know what goes on inside. {all electrical}

It is very hard to diagnose without hooking it up to a computer for a complete anaylsis.

I would suggest you call around to a local trans shop and ask if they have "FREE" diagnoisis, most will do this free.

They will hook up a small computer to your transmission, and it will tell the tech EXACTLY WHAT ITS DOING INSIDE, AND WHAT FAULT CODES IT IS THROWING.

You can go from there on what to do.

"PLEASE NOTE"!!!!! MOST LARGE SHOPS ; IE "AMMCO" and the like, will IMMEDITALY TELL YOU THAT YOU NEED A REBUILD... GET A SECOND OPNION!!! FROM A SMALLER SHOP.

There may be other small things that you can do to make the "fix" on your trans.

Many times its just an "in-put" out-put sensor, or a solenoid pack, or the TCM its self. These items are WAY CHEAPER than a rebuild. That's why you need to see EXACTLY WHAT THE FAULT CODES ARE.

"DO NOT JUST TAKE THE TRANSMISSION SHOPS WORD THAT YOU NEED A REBUILD"

THATS HOW MANY SHOPS WORK.... PREYING ON PROPLE WHO DONT KNOW !!!!!!

{sad , but true} below is a "very informative site that list cheap "fixes" to your transmission. I found it very helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! look it over, clear down to the bottom of the page, it lists many fixes.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.HTML

Push the red button.

In the luggage area behind one of the panels, either on the right or left, there is a little box with a red button on it. Push that button. It is the fuel pump safety cutoff relay reset. If you hit a pothole hard, or hit something while driving, it cuts the pump off.

Ignition switch should be connected to a rod that runs down the steering column to the actual switch at the lower end of the column. Check to see if this rod has become disconnected or broken

There are 4 things an engine needs to run; Fuel, Air, Spark, and Compression. Your engine isn't getting one of those 4 things.

Check the air intake for restrictions as a clogged air filter. Next verify that the injectors are actually delivering fuel to the engine by unbolting the fuel rail and pulling the injectors out a little. Have someone crank the engine and watch to see if they are spraying fuel. If that checks out, you need to get a compression gauge. Your insert the compression gage into a spark plug port and crank the engine (you need to also disconnect the ignition coils).

I can't give you the exact compression specification without knowing the year of your car, but you should be able to find it through an internet search or by contacting the service department of a VW dealership. If the compression is off, then the timing chain might be broken, the heads could be shot, or the piston rings need to be replaced.

Put a stethoscope or a plastic tube onto the solenoid, listen at it while a friend turns the starter. If solenoid clicks it is good. -Problem then is low battery or dud starter.

Could be: Seized engine Weak battery loose or corroded battery cables Bad starter solenoid

Bad starter Bad neutral or clutch safety switch

starter or CKP sensor?

That is very likely a slightly loose serpentine or other drive belt. In colder weather belts get stiffer and slicker, fluid (as in the steering pump) gets thicker and harder to turn . If it diminishes when your car warms up, that is almost certainly the cause. - Let a mechanic hear it and diagnose it. There is also the possibility it could be a bearing worn in alternator or any other belt driven part.

My 2000 Catera does the same and that is why I am here today searching for answers..............my suspicion is the immobilizer may be shutting off the fuel and igntion and that module I have yet to find................on another discussion it was said to be in the steering columbe under the lock barrell

Test battery with a load tester.

If battery passes you have a problem with connections or cables.

your problem is one that i have encountered numerous times, you need to replace key cylinder with key, cylinder has a microchip in it with two very thin wires coming out of it (something like 30 gauge or 35,very thin) wires usually break because of constant movement, causing open circuit and computer system not acknowledging correct key used due to vehicle pass-lock II ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM

If it has a manual transmission - yes.

Auto tranny - no.

Yes

i have a '97 3.8 v6 which has problems turning over. i usually have to try like 3 or so times. i havent diagnosed exactly what it is ~ either the fuel pump, FPR, or hopefully just needs a new fuel filter. either way, there isn't enough pressure to pump in enough fuel to start the engine. try turning the ignition on and off a few times, you should hear like a humming noise coming from the pump, wait for that to stop before you turn it off again... if you do this and it starts with more ease than usual i would recommend looking into diagnosing the above. good luck.

yes! change the starter!

I own this same model and the problem i am having is the fuel pump keeps going out. From what I have found out, this is a common problem for this type and year.

So it would seem.

If the ignition is in the column it may also be jammed by the steering wheel lock. Try turning the steering wheel and holding it while turning the ignition key.

Your engine computer has died. When mine went a little puff of smoke rose almost dead center on the windshield. The earlier generation Stealths / 3000gts used electrolytic caps which had a 7 year life. Some of them lasted much longer. Like yours, for example. I'm shopping for a repair service now. The common deal looks like it'll cost $275. Let me know if you find a good deal!

well you need a mechanic to check it but could be your timing belt gone which isn't good and can be expensive but very hard to say without seeing it so better get it to a mechanic most wont charge for checking it they will charge for the repair