Car Starting Problems

Without knowing your exact brand of car, this is a difficult question to answer. The first thought I have would be that your vehicle has an immobilizer, in which case you will need to take the immobilizer off before you can start the vehicle. If it's not the case that you have an immobilizer on your vehicle, I would suggest you refer to the owner's manual for your car, or contact a dealership.

Read the error codes for sensors problems.

What is it doing? ddus it turn over but just wont start?

It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .

The order they go in are green, yellow, yellow, brown/white, black/pink, yellow/black, brown. I found another 1991 sunbird with the same distributor at a junkyard, that's how I found out.

What should happen when you turn the key to run is the fuel pump relay should enable to pressurize the fuel system. And then if you do not start the car immediately it will shut off once it has pressuriezed the system. Once you start the engine the pump should kick back in to supply fuel to run the car. If everything has worked so far and once you start the car and it dies right after it starts running check the oil pressure sender. If that sensor does not detect oil pressure it will not allow the fuel pump to keep running and the engine is supposed to die. This is great if you ramp a railroad crossing and take the sump of the oil pan but not any other time. Get that sensor replaced and all should be well

Not enough power to starter motor.

engine cranks but wont start means one of these things.. Air, Fuel, Spark, or compression

If it's blowing immediately when you turn the key on, there is an electrical short in the system and you are going to need to trace it down. If it blows after several minutes or hours after turning the key on, it appears that your pump is overworking, causing the fuse to get hot and blow. Replace the pump to repair the problem.

It sounds like the ignition module is going bad. It heats up and stops working. It was once believed that this problem plagued only Ford models. It is a rarer condition for GM but it does exist.

Changed the ignition?? The key tumbler? The switch itself? The parts under the hood? IF the key, was the part in the column in good condition. Did the key assembly seat properly? If the switch itself, it is adjustable to a degree and may not be in the right place. Under the hood? Depends of what was changed.

OUT OF GAS?

Replace the fuel injectors or clean them and replace your fuel filter. You may have to replace your fuel filter a few times. If you can, take your gas tank out and wash it with water. Sugar will not turn to sluge or 'cement' in your gas tank, actually sugar doesn't even dissolve in gasoline. It will however block your fuel injectors and fuel filter. # idid that wash gastank and put a filter and injector it ran for a minute and got hot and now it wont crank at all it has lockup so what do i do to make it run

How does one remove and replace the starter in the 1997 Bravada??

Could be several things but you need to check the terminals on the battery for good connection, the cables coming off your battery for signs of corrosion, and if all those check out and you know you are getting plenty of power to your starter solenoid then you have a bad starter solenoid. Basically inside your starter is a contact plate that tends to get corroded, if it gets to bad then it will not give your starter enough power to actually turn your engine over. However, it will give enough power to try and activate your starter hence the clicking sound. Sometimes you can hit your starter with a hammer to try and shake some of the rust or buildup inside your starter free and it might let you start your car.

Old spark plugs have nothing to do with frying the ignition coil. the coils secondary voltage creates a high voltage that jumps the gap (insulated part that attaches to plug and plug ground) it does not back up current to burn out a coil.

On the 302 cu in 5.0L TBI engine as identified by the F as the 5th digit in a 13 digit VIN# or the 8th digit in a 17 digit VIN#, it is located next to the crankshaft pulley on the passenger side next to and above the vacuum pump bracket. First you will need to jack the car up. I placed a 1 1/2 inch thick concrete block under both wheels. You will need to remove the vacuum pump bracket and battery ground cable and wiring harness to make enough room to work. Using a 7/16 angled box wrench, remove the retainer clip on top, not the block the sensor is inside of.

Inserting the new sensor and retainer clip is tricky since it's hard to see the angle they go back in with. Total job took me over 3 hours. You should have better luck now.

If the car will not start after replacing the battery, then the battery was not the problem. If it will not turn over, you may have a bad starter or bad connection. If it turns over but will not start you either have no fuel or no spark. You will have to determine which.

The starter drive (aka bendix) is broken. The bendix and/or starter needs to be replaced.

Start by inspecting the bulbs that don't light. Remove the bulb and make sure the contacts aren't corroded. If not corroded, change one bulb and test. If it doesn't work with the new bulb, then check the fuse(see owner's manual for which fuse is brake lights). If none of this works, check the activating switch located on the brake pedal arm.

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The brake light in the rear window and the main brake lights are on a different circuit. After the signal leaves the activating switch on the brake pedal arm, it splits. One circuit goes straight to the high mount brake light, the other goes into the turn signal switch. If the rear turn signals work but the brake lights don't, suspect the turn signal switch, not the bulbs and wires. Better to check this before removing and checking bulbs, wires and fuses.

It is a common problem with the W-body cars like Lumina, Monte Carlo, Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass and Pontiac Grand Prix. (Approx 94-99 models). Part number is GM 190005031 (w/o radio accessory control) or 19005032 (with radio controls)

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No.

The problem lies in the starter itself. Replace the starter and the vehicle will start....

You need to find out if it is getting fuel. Crank it a couple times and then pull out a plug to see if it has "fresh" gas on it end of it. If it does then your coil or distributer is probably bad. If no gas then check the fuel pump relay first to see if it is good. If that doesnt work then make sure fuel filter not plugged up. If that is good then your fuel pump has probably gone bad. Good luck.

You should check for spark. Check at each plug, or directly from the coil which is under the distributor cap. The main power relay (Honda part number 39797-SE3-003 Denso part number 056700-8570) is notorious for failing. This relay will power the fuel pump and the computer amongst other things. The computer controls the spark. If you put your head under the driver's side dashboard, and you turn the key to the on position, you should hear this relay click, and the fuel system pressurize. The relay is right above the hood release latch.

http://info.rockauto.com/SMPSMPDetail2.html?RY171.jpg

Low coolant?
Cooling fan not working?
Radiator air flow restricted?
Radiator clogged?
Water pump not working properly?
Radiator cap defective?

Maybe your fuel pump