Car Starting Problems

Sounds like it needs an overhaul.

Poor oil pressure can be due to worn main & rod bearings and the shaking with failure to start means low or no compression which can be worn valves and/or worn piston rings.

Just sounds like it needs a new motor.

Also could be a broken timing chain which means the valves aren't being moved and the cam isn't turning so the oil pump isn't being driven.

Sorry, sounds bad.

i had a problem may be similar to that, the problem turn out to be that i had a loose ground connection at the battery, i had 2 thick wires and a skinny wire between them, so the skinny wire was not as thight as the other 2 fat ones. and with the vibration from the vehicle it used to separate for a split second causing my engine to shut off.(that wire was the only path that my engine had for its ground) but after the vehicle stoped moving it would just start again like nothing ever happened.and yes the oil and engine light would come on too.

check your ground conections.if you were making a turn then you may want to look at another reason for that for ex, broken/corroded gas tank bafles. when the bafles go and you make a turn the gasoline would be sent to the side of the gas tank away from the fuel pump causing your vehicle to shut off until the gas returns to the center of the tank .it happens.

Its because your battery is "dead" OR your battery terminals aren't making good connection to the battery post they may need tightening

Assuming it's diesel check the glow plug/s is/are getting a voltage for a number of seconds when the ignition is first turned on. If they are then switch the ignition off, unscrew and lift the thick wire off all of them. Get a meter on the ohms range and put one probe to plug screw thread and the other to the engine block; the meter should show continuity or a very low ohms reading. Alternatively get a single filament 12v bulb, and connect between the battery POSITIVE and the screw thread of each glow plug in turn. If the lamp doesn't light the glow plug is shot. They vary in price but most are reasonable and widely available.

fuel injector

sounds like the starter solenoid, you will have to replace the starter

You have a serious short in your wiring somewhere, this isn't something you should try and fix yourself. But until you can get it fixed, carry a fire extinguisher. (I speak from experience, I had a 97 Saturn SC1 that burned to the ground because of a wiring short)

my 1999 wouldn't start. i replaced the battery cable and it runs now. i hope this helps

you have to have the unlock code. you can get it from any GM dealer

Sounds like a CV axle. (constant velocity axle) its the part on your car that turns the front wheels. it is a bar with joints on each end. the joints are in a rubber boot. this sound is most likely caused by the rubber boot tearing or slipping off and expelling all the oil. now your joints have no lubricant and are probably warped. this happend to my 1993 Toyota corolla 1.8l. to check yourself turn your wheel all the way to the left and park the car. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE CAR OFF! now lay near the front of the tire and look behind it. there should be the bar i described. look at the rubber boots on each end if they don't appear OR feel to be torn then this is not your problem. if they are get it fixed. this is not a severe problem until the car makes this noise on a strait away but still you may want to get it fixed.

DELUNATIC

Would likely be caused by a lack of fuel, lack of air, or lack of spark.

When owning a car it is important to know its firing order. The firing order of a 1980 3.8L Oldsmobile Cutlass is 1-6-5-4-3-2.

I'm not a mechanic but had a similar problem check vacuum hoses and also check the automatic idle speed control/motor fancy name but a small part should cost around 70 bucks if it is the aic you should be getting a check engine light and code 35 hope this helps

if it isn't showing a check engine light it could be a fuel pump or crank sensor.

Fuel pump: Low or no fuel pressure

Crankshaft position sensor: weak or no spark when cranking over

Bad distributor or rotor or bad spark plug wires would be my first culprits.

Without knowing your exact brand of car, this is a difficult question to answer. The first thought I have would be that your vehicle has an immobilizer, in which case you will need to take the immobilizer off before you can start the vehicle. If it's not the case that you have an immobilizer on your vehicle, I would suggest you refer to the owner's manual for your car, or contact a dealership.

Read the error codes for sensors problems.

What is it doing? ddus it turn over but just wont start?

It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .

The order they go in are green, yellow, yellow, brown/white, black/pink, yellow/black, brown. I found another 1991 sunbird with the same distributor at a junkyard, that's how I found out.

What should happen when you turn the key to run is the fuel pump relay should enable to pressurize the fuel system. And then if you do not start the car immediately it will shut off once it has pressuriezed the system. Once you start the engine the pump should kick back in to supply fuel to run the car. If everything has worked so far and once you start the car and it dies right after it starts running check the oil pressure sender. If that sensor does not detect oil pressure it will not allow the fuel pump to keep running and the engine is supposed to die. This is great if you ramp a railroad crossing and take the sump of the oil pan but not any other time. Get that sensor replaced and all should be well

Not enough power to starter motor.

engine cranks but wont start means one of these things.. Air, Fuel, Spark, or compression

If it's blowing immediately when you turn the key on, there is an electrical short in the system and you are going to need to trace it down. If it blows after several minutes or hours after turning the key on, it appears that your pump is overworking, causing the fuse to get hot and blow. Replace the pump to repair the problem.

It sounds like the ignition module is going bad. It heats up and stops working. It was once believed that this problem plagued only Ford models. It is a rarer condition for GM but it does exist.